User attention
We are temporarily changing the advice in the code of practice regarding climbing in wet or damp conditions for this winter. Only climb on properly dry rock – this will usually take multiple days of dry weather in a row before a visit, and even then nothing is guaranteed. If you are unsure, leave climbing for another day. It might be frustrating to travel only to find the crag isn’t in condition, but we all need to have the long term sustainability of the crags in mind. Once holds are snapped or damaged, they cannot be replaced. from 02/12/2020
A little amphitheatre facing the fork of roads opposite the pub in the tiny village of Hoath Corner. Several buttresses about 6m high, broken up by some fine (and not-so-fine) cracks.
Climbing Area:
London & South East
Rock Type:
Sandstone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
9
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
TQ496429
The rock quality is extremely variable: some is very solid, some is treacherously loose, most is in need of a clean. Parts of the top of the crag have an unpleasant cap of mud - soloists be warned!As with all Southern Sandstone, top-roping and soloing/bouldering are the only accepted methods of ascent. Tree belays are fairly plentiful here but can be tricky to set up due to the mud. Make sure you extend the anchor so no moving rope is in contact with the rock.
Parking and Approach
The land is private but climbers appear to be tolerated - although the fairly public setting could lead to some strange stares from locals.It is best to park at the pub. The rocks are best accessed from the right-hand fork in the road by scrabbling through some trees to reach a descent leading to the left-hand side of the crag.
Follow this link for the definitive Code of Practice for climbing on southern sandstone;
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/southern_sandstone/ssc05_print.pdf
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag