Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.
There are reports of some belaying stakes having been installed some way back from the crag. A second rigging rope is recommended and caution is advised in respect of any stakes.
Warning, April 2016 - There is a significant rift above the buttress at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" in the vicinity of the route Never So Far. There is a consensus that this fault line is relatively new and may indicate that the buttress is at risk of peeling away from the escarpment.
Parking and Approach
There was a history of parking and access issues in the vicinity of Bilsdale Hall and climbers were advised to remain mindful of this and park considerately, avoiding the Hall, church and farm. "New" (c2019) landowners accept climbing is a permitted activity and parking on the wide grass verge in the vicinity of the church NZ565007 is no longer an issue. A bridleway commences on the right of the Hall and leads up the moor from where the crags can be accessed on the right between the bridleway and the plantation. Alternatively there is a car park at Chop Gate Village Hall SE558993 with public footpaths leading up to the moor via William Beck Farm.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .