Usual Access information valid from February 2024

The landowner requires that all climbers request permission via text message before climbing at this venue. This is because there could be authorised target shooting or vermin control operations taking place and the landowner does not want anyone getting injured. Failure to inform the land owner will lead to access being withdrawn. 

Please text the landowner, Mr L Jones, on 07717 257796 to ask for permission. 

This crag is subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder, in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between June 22nd and February 1st inclusive. NB: These dates are subject to change - please always check Social Media and the RAD.

Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner  and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the most current versions of the North Wales Limestone and A55 Climbing guidebooks , unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.

The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.

Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates and across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area Follow this fence downhill to a gate - go through and follow the fence to another gate. This leads into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificently on your left. Please shut all gates unless obviously tied open by the farmer.

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.