How to scramble: Crib Goch

Posted by Hanna Lindon on 28/03/2016
The imposing razorback of Crib Goch. Photo by phildaint/ Shutterstock.

This thrilling Grade 1 scramble in Snowdonia is one of the country’s most popular ridges - so what does it take to tackle Crib Goch?

Ask any hill walker to name you a few classic scrambles, and Crib Goch will almost certainly get a high-priority mention. Not only does this cracking stickleback ridge offer the wildest and most exciting way up Wales’ highest peak, it also scores ten out of ten on views, exposure and general scrambly fabulousness. Add to that the low technical difficulty (it’s a Grade 1, the lowest rating on the scrambling scale) and you’ve got a recipe for one of the best hands-on-rock days out in the country. Here’s our guide to bagging Snowdonia’s ultimate bucket list tick.  

First things first

Crib Goch’s high profile means that many people pick it as their first serious scramble - but Carlo Forte, Plas y Brenin’s chief instructor, recommends cutting your teeth on a few less challenging routes first.

“Crib Goch is often underestimated,” he says. “Route finding isn’t straightforward and the exposure is serious. I’d suggest getting some experience on easier days out such as Striding Edge or the Gribin Ridge before attempting it. Even Sharp Edge on Blencathra could be a better first option - it’s the same grade as Crib Goch, but it’s shorter and navigationally more straightforward.”

If you’re new to scrambling then it’s important to remember that not all similarly graded scrambles are equal. Crib Goch might be a technical cinch in the right conditions, but the knee-wobbling exposure and the risk of veering off-path make it both more thrilling and more hazardous than other routes in the same grade. Because of this, it’s vital to make your first attempt in decent conditions. High winds and slippery conditions underfoot can easily add a grade to this sneaky beast of a ridge.   

WATCH Britain's Mountain Challenges: Crib Goch, on BMC TV

Where did the path go?

Crib Goch has tripped up plenty of hill walkers in the past by luring them into a false sense of a security.

“Once you strike off from the Pyg Track there’s a good, well-travelled path that takes you right up to the base of the scramble,” explains Carlo. “It’s easy to wander along thinking ‘this is all very nice’ and not realise how serious the route is until you’re on it.”

The scramble begins with an exhilarating clamber up blocky slabs that bottleneck up to the crest of the ridge. Holds are numerous and the exposure is only middling - the real difficulty at this point is route finding. A guidebook will help you identify the main features, but you’ll still need to pay close attention to the line.

“One of the skills that isn’t emphasised enough in scrambling is looking ahead,” says Carlo. “As you approach the scramble from a distance, start looking for your route and make a mental note of key features to aim at such as big boulders, flat terraced areas and unusual rock features. Sometimes these can only be identified from a long way back - once you’re close up, the view to the top will be obstructed.

"Many people use a guidebook to help them, which is a good idea, but I’d also recommend taking a large-scale map. A map will show plenty of detail, particularly if you look beneath the rock and crag markings at the contour lines. These will give an indication of steepness and changes in angles of slopes which can all be used as tick-off features when navigating such a route.”

Mountain highs

The navigational difficulties diminish substantially once you reach the crest of the ridge itself, but at this point the exposure really begins to kick in. Those incredible sweeping descents on either side might lend themselves to some of the best views in the mountain range - but they’re anathema for vertigo sufferers. At points the ridge is narrow enough to easily straddle and in these areas it tends to be safest to stick to the top or to drop slightly down to the left hand side as you continue towards Snowdon. Scramblers have been known to freeze on Crib Goch, particularly in inclement conditions.

“The weather really can play a very important part,” Carlo points out. “This is a well-travelled route and the rock in places is polished, so in wet or even damp conditions it can get slippery. If it’s windy then the ridge will feel even more exposed. And remember that there’s no escape route until you reach Bwlch Coch.”  

In snowy conditions Crib Goch is a Grade 1 winter climb that requires crampon and ice axe skills, so in winter it's best left to those with bags of experience.   

Lucky Horseshoe

If the traverse of Crib Goch has left you jelly-legged and keen to recuperate with a slap-up breakfast at Pete’s Eats, then there is a steep, grassy descent from Bwlch Coch that eventually joins back up with the Pyg Track. The much longer and more exciting alternative is to continue along the second section of the ridge - Crib y Ddysgl - and bag the summit of Snowdon before descending via Y Lliwedd to complete the full Snowdon Horseshoe. Leave between 6 and 10 hours for the route, depending on your scrambling speed and fitness levels, and be aware that Crib Goch isn’t the only challenge that this glorious mountain day will present to you.

“Crib Goch is often described as the crux of the Horseshoe, but the whole route is packed with excitement,” says Carlo. “Crib y Ddysgl has an easier route that bypasses the crest, but if you choose to stick to the ridge then it’s just as challenging as Crib Goch. It’s also worth point out that following the easier route would still require good route finding skills and navigation to avoid getting into trouble as this route crosses through some steep terrain There’s more exposed scrambling on the other side of the Horseshoe, and you should be aware that route finding can be tricky coming off the mountain as well.” 

Be wary when descending from the summit of Snowdon to Bwlch Ciliau. It is easy to take a direct line from the summit over the top of Clogwyn y Garnedd, but this lures you on to a treacherous scree sclope which has caught people out in the past, to sometimes tragic results. Instead, head down to the south-west for a short distance and pick up the top section of the Watkin Path to head down to Bwlch Ciliau, and then carry straight on to Y Lliwedd.

With its epic feel and ramped-up exposure factor, the Snowdon Horseshoe is the perfect springboard for trickier and more sustained ridge scrambles such as Aonach Eagach. We look at the know-how you’ll need to tackle this Scottish classic in part three of our scrambling series: How to scramble: Aonach Eagach.

Read more "how to scramble" guides:


Courses for indoor climbers making their first moves onto rock

Who are they for?

These courses are ideal for novice climbing club members, students, parents and individuals who may have had the odd taster of climbing outdoors and wish to gain key safety skills at an excellent price. They may also be a good precursor for people contemplating the Single Pitch Award training. You should already know how to put on a harness and belay. These courses are for people aged 18 or older.

Under 18?: Check out our rock climbing courses for climbers aged 11-17 

What do the courses cover?

A variety of topics will be covered during the day as well as offering a fun taster to outdoor climbing. Topics may include:

  • Types of trad climbing equipment
  • Placing good protection
  • Building good belays
  • Using guidebooks
  • Seconding/top roping 

FIND OUT MORE: Ready to Rock Courses 2022

FIND OUT MORE: Women Ready To Rock Courses 2022

FIND OUT MORE: Outdoor Sport Climbing Courses for 11-17 year olds

FIND OUT MORE: Outdoor Trad Courses for 11-17 year olds


« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 35782 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Courses, workshops and lectures with the BMC in 2023
18
Courses, workshops and lectures with the BMC in 2023

There are a range of courses, lectures, workshops and training opportunities that the BMC organises to bring the best value possible to its members.
Read more »

How to scramble: Top 5 to convert you
2
How to scramble: Top 5 to convert you

Not sure if scrambling is for you? Want to give it a try but don't know where to start? Find out everything you need to know from our top five of the best UK scrambles, become an instant convert, and get all the skills from our videos.
Read more »

Chill thrills: how to keep scrambling over winter
0
Chill thrills: how to keep scrambling over winter

Got hooked on scrambling over summer? Here’s what you need to know to keep tackling those airy arêtes and bristling ridges over winter.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
12
Anonymous User
06/12/2014
brilliant videos... much appreciated!
Anonymous User
07/12/2014
'Scramblers have been known to freeze on Crib Goch' - too true, and not just a problem for the sufferer themselves, as on many parts of the ridge it's not at all easy to pass someone who's stuck and this can make the traverse much slower than you might anticipate.
Anonymous User
12/07/2016
Great Video's, and good advice. Crib Goch.....

This my only personal opinion having climbed it as MLTB for 25 years sometimes daily living in its shadow in the Gwynant Valley

1. Don't fall! To the right and it's the pearly gates, to left you'll bits missing
2. Don't think when you get to the ridge you can avoid via circumnavigating it, you can't
3. Weather if it's windy it's not too much of a problem, but if the wind gusts it can catch you out!
4. Do it at night if you want a thrill ride.
5. In Winter it is a VERY serious place to be with minimum light verglass everywhere. Snow can for pockets that if you step into them you foot can disappear and your off. Roping up is hard as your walking level
6. The actual summit is in the middle
7. If a colleague freezes with fear and it happens. Do not try to make it down off the ridge to the SW side especially in poor conditions
7. Please learn to Map read and use a Compass old school.
8. In Bad weather on finishing the ridge "Well Done" On reaching Carnedd Ugain stay as close to the top as possible, what seem to be paths around to the left soon disappear and so will you!

Enjoy your day out
Anonymous User
27/09/2016
I climbed crib goch when I was eleven and highly recommend it for good walkers who can scramble and are not scared of hights. Some parents may favour ropes above free climbing, however if your child is a confident climber/walker they probably won't need them. I would recommend trying other routs up Snowdon first if you are a parent wanting to take your child up the mountain. The ridge is an exciting if scary for most children.

If you are not satisfied with your climb up crib goch or want to climb a mountain with your child which is less dangerous, tryfan is also a good walk/climb with many routs.

I would research both mountains before climbing if you plan on going up either with a child. I would not recommend going up the mountains with more than one child if it is just one parent climbing.

I hope that my review helped you. Gave a good scramble!!!
Anonymous User
18/10/2016
There surely is a market for a good visual guide with photos and route descriptions of the best scramble lines up to Crib Goch ridge.
Anonymous User
08/08/2017
This comment is awaiting moderation, it will be reviewed
04/11/2018
Recently did crib goch for the first time and wasn't as bad as I expected! I read loads and watched loads of videos but like I said in person it wasn't half as bad as I thought
Anonymous User
04/05/2019
Crib Goch...crib is pronounced Creeb not the English crib
Anonymous User
29/06/2021
I really dont recommend the grassy slope from bwlch coch to the pyg track. Its steep, slippy and far more dangerous than sticking to the ridge. Dont treat that as a feasible option.
Anonymous User
26/09/2021
My wife and I did this about 20 years ago unintentionally and were terrified!
We followed an elderly lady and who was walking with a young teenager, I assume her granddaughter, on the way up from the Pyg Trail, not realising that she was the equivalent of a mountain goat and was striking a path onto Crib. We both had experience of many mountain walks, particularly in the Lakes, as well as a few tricky scrambles, but hadn't prepared ourselves for this!
When we reached the start of the ridge we realised we were in for a quite different experience than we had anticipated when we set off that morning. I honestly have never felt so terrified as I stared at the exposed sheer drops on either side that screamed "One slip and you are gone". Ater contemplating whether we could reverse the scramble up (even scarier!), we decided to take our chances. We followed a couple of fearless Kiwis who stormed across without a second thought, although we were considerably more circumspect - going at a crawl - in some places quite literally crawling! It was at one of those, "one slip and you are gone" points that my mobile starting ringing in my backpack - I remember thinking at the time, "Really? You are going to ring me now? At the point where I am about to die!
Anyway, we made it across with our jellylegs and scrambled our way to the summit.
We both learned a valuable lesson that day, about not making assumptions about appearances. Harmless looking grannies can be deceptively tough climbers.

RELATED ARTICLES

Courses, workshops and lectures with the BMC in 2023
18

There are a range of courses, lectures, workshops and training opportunities that the BMC organises to bring the best value possible to its members.
Read more »

How to scramble: Top 5 to convert you
2

Not sure if scrambling is for you? Want to give it a try but don't know where to start? Find out everything you need to know from our top five of the best UK scrambles, become an instant convert, and get all the skills from our videos.
Read more »

Chill thrills: how to keep scrambling over winter
0

Got hooked on scrambling over summer? Here’s what you need to know to keep tackling those airy arêtes and bristling ridges over winter.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »