COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Llanddulas Escarpment

Northern Limestone (Inland)

A series of limestone edges overlooking the A55 just east of the village of Llanddulas. Almost all sports routes of varying quality offering shaded climbing which can also be well sheltered in bad weather.

There are several seperate sections, including Forgotten Sun Area, The Main Cave, Golf Ball Wall KO Wall and the Tower.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 78
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1984
Grid Reference: SH915779

The edges five separate sites - Forgotten Sun area, Upper Cave, KO Wall, Golf Ball Wall and the Tower.  All of the climbing lies within the Gwrych Castle & Llanddulas SSSI. The area is especially noted for its assemblage of the Wild Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and there have been concerns by CCW that climbing has negatively impacted on some of the plants.  It is imperative that no more route cleaning or new routing occurs without consultation with CCW if serious access restrictions are to be avoided here.

 Access update Feb 2021 

As people may have seen for other threads and on social media, there have been rumours cicrulating of changes to land ownership and possible access issues here. BMC have investigated and the landownership situation is complicated.  The bulk of the area, including the actual cliff faces appears to be under the ownership of Gwrych Castle Preservation Trust, who state that they have not ever given permisson for any public access to their land. Some of this land is also under a historic lease to Natural Resources Wales but its unclear if that lease permits them to manage or allow public access.  BMC understands that there are ongoing discussions between NRW and Gwrych Castle Trust regarding this lease.  The land directly below (literally up to the base of the rockfaces) of the the  Forgotten Sun to Main Cave area appears to be owned by a third party absentee landowner. BMC have not had any contact with this landowner. There are rumours that this parcel of land may have recently changed onwership but contrary to information circulating in the local media, both NRW and Gwrych Castle Trust categorically deny that they have or that they ever intend to buy this land. 

The land bordering the cliffs is on open access land but again it does not seem that the actual rockfaces are within that area.  The whole area is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and it's vital that whatever the status of access might be, that recreational users do not damage the flora or any other special interests of this site - including no vegetation removal, no modification of rockfaces or disturbing nesting birds or roosing bats in the caves. 

The local community have used this area for general walking and recreation, unopposed and without hinderance, for many years and there is a local campaign underway to try to pursue a claim for public rights of way over parts of this land.

In the meantime, if people do encounter any access issues then please contact the BMC and we are still in discusions with all the relevant parties to do what we can to protect access to this venue. 

Parking Update

There have been a number of complaints from local residents regarding climbers parking and creating obstructions to local residents along Fordd Newydd/New Road; climbers are advised especially to not park close to or opposite any drives or gateways.

If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite
Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA)  or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall on the outskirts of the village, just past the Valentines Pub.

 

 

 

 

Parking and Approach

Please do your utmost not to inconvenience to local residents; especially do not park close to or opposite any drives or gateways.

If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite
Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA)  or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall.

 

CRoW Information

Its likely that only the access path on the extreme west of the crag lies within open access land. The crags themselves are on private land, part of which may be on land leased and managed by the Forestry Commison.

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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