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St Bees Head

Buttermere & St Bees

Two huge (up to 100m)  headlands of steep soft sandstone, luckily there is a large seabird colony and climbing on the main headlands is not permitted.

Thankfully there are some much more solid walls and boulders of wave washed rock close to sea level where quality bouldering and sport climbing is to be found. Situated away from the hills these can make a useful poor weather venue.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Lake District Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 81
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: NX 939 145

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Parking and Approach

Paid parking is allowed at Tarn Flatt Hall Farm (cash required).

Area information

With implimentation of the CRoW Act (2000), many Lakes fells and crags now have an Open Access designation. They also have many nationally important bird and plant species dependant on inaccessible crags/ledges and heather/mixed heath environments for survival. During the bird nesting period, a number of species can be vulnerable to disturbance. The Lake District restrictions are monitored, variable (VR) and reviewed in April/May. If the birds do not nest, restrictions are lifted early. Check the BMC and FRCC websites in early May for details. New restrictions will be notified on the websites and with on-site notices. To view the BMC's Lake District Green Climbing Guide click this link: www.thebmc.co.uk/lake-district-green-guide

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
20/07/2020
Car park at farm now open 19/07/20.
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    St Bees Head

    Buttermere & St Bees