Charnwood Quarry

East Midlands

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

PLEASE note an industrial type fence has now been installed across the entrance to the Quarry at the lower level where you used to be able to walk up to the Nanpantan Slab. People have gained access by ducking under the fence at the top of the Quarry by walking in from Longcliffe Farm and then abseiling down the slab, but this not recommended. The original fence at the top of the Quarry when accessing from the farm has been replaced by a razor wire fence so the Quarry Owners plainly don't want access to take place.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Midlands Rock Type: Slate
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 62
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK492169

Parking and Approach

Take J23 off the M1 and follow the A512 towards Shepshed. Turn left at the first traffic lights down Ingleberry Road and follow this to park carefully on the verge by Longcliffe Lodge Farm after passing under the M1. (Access that was previous used from the layby on Nanpantan Road at Grid Ref 497167 is not recommended.)

A footpath leads across the field, at the other side follow a hedge leftwards and cross it where the hedge thins out. From here a track leads down into the quarry.



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Anonymous User
You can no longer access the crag from the Nanpantan rd layby as a new fence hasbeen put in on the quarry boundary .
Anonymous User
The comments for this site are very out dated, the site was purchased by the council specifically for climbing. Access is either at the farm, but park up on the grass and don't block the farmers access, or round the back and at the top, parking is more limited down a busy road/hill. At the farm you will need to cross a field usually filled with cows, just don't run and be calm, that was the farmers advice.
Anonymous User
Can still gain access from the B591 road and crossing the farmers field using the footpaths and stiles then walking down into the bottom and walking back on yourself to reach the nanpantan slab
I have been informed today that the owners are putting up an 8ft fence around the site and have paid for dog patrols every day for the next 10 weeks. Clearly they no longer want people in the Quarry! I will attempt to visit the quarry myself to confirm this and if it’s true I will attempt to contact the land owners . However, for now it seems there is no access for the public.
Anonymous User
Went there on evening of the 15th August. At the edge of the quarry we found a car and a van, both had guard dogs in. Despite a lot of barking, no one came along that we could speak to, so we do not know why the quarry is closed. Didn’t want to risk being attacked by dogs, so we left. Shame as the climbing looks good. Can the BMC investigate the access situation?
Anonymous User
I paid the quarry a visit today just to check it out having never climbed there. I found that on the approach to Nanpanton Slab the quarry owners have recently erected a tall galvanised iron security gate and fence across the track, just before you reach the slab ! This would be quite difficult to negotiate. As far as I can see the only way in would be to ab in down the slab, though there is a shallow overgrown rake leading down to the track from above it. This lies in between the slab and the new gate, a rope down this and some secateurs could facilitate an access point.
Anonymous User
PLEASE NOTE: The quarry authorities have recently began hourly patrols 24/7. Despite the steel fences the quarry is still relatively easily accessible through a number of ways. I will not post these but look hard enough and you will find them. Personal opinion is that as of now it is not worth attempting to climb or ab in the quarry due to the likelihood of getting caught.