Craig Rhiw Goch

Snowdonia

A single pitch traditional climbing venue, off the beaten track, with a handful of routes from Severe to E3. Lies on land owned by the National Trust but which is not designated open access land. 

Access is currently sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities and recently installed bolts. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect. 

Climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 10
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1965
Grid Reference: SH766540

Access can be sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect. 

To avoid any future access issues, climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders. 

Parking should be in the layby on the A470, some 500m west of the crag. Do not park on the grass verge adjacent to the entrance gate/paths. 

Parking and Approach

Lies on NT property. The iron ladders in the river bank are private property, used for fishing.Take the A496 Betws y Coed to Dolwyddelan road, where the crag lies on the bank of the river Lledr. Park by a small building just past the crag (coming from Betws - leave the gate clear). or a larger layby some 500m towards Dolwyddelen. Do not park on the roadside verge above the crag. 
Area information

A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
21/09/2022
The 2021 guidebook refers to 2 gates above the crag just off the road. I assume the gates have been removed as there is now only a barbed wire fence and signs stating "no public entry".