As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
Secluded; surrounding woodland may keep it damp after rain. Plenty to entertain the VS-HVS climber - including the arêtes near the entrance which are sunny and dry quickly - and some three-starred E4+ routes; the longest up to 23m.Very dirty rock, lots and lots of moss.
The site is also an SSSI, mainly on account of the rich assemblage of liverworts, mosses and ferns, the most notable being the two rare species of filmy ferns.
The BMC were recently informed by a third party that Police visited the site (June 2020) and requested climbers not to climb here but BMC have had no formal approach from either Natural Resources Wales or any other persons. Be advised that access could be sensitive at this site.
The area is a nationally important winter bat roost so is best avoided as the bats return in winter—(guideline dates/routes to avoid will be posted after consultation with bat ecologists). After consultation it has been established that AVOIDING AREAS USED AS WINTER BAT HIBERNATION ROOST BETWEEN NOVEMBER AND FEBRUARY WOULD BE WISE. Routes that are particularly problematic are marked with a symbol in the wiki text and on the topo.
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The venue is an Site of Special Scientific Interest, mainly on account of the ferns that grow here (including some rare tiny varieties of "filmy ferns"). No gardening or route cleaning are permitted and it is a criminal offence to do so without formal consent from Natural Resources Wales. There are also protected bat roosts in the vicinity.
Parking and Approach
M4 junction 36, take the A4061 (Bryncethin to Blackmill) road. In Blackmill turn R onto A4093 (signpost Tonyrefail) just after Ogmore Junction pub. Head to Glynogwr, and there turn L between village church and school, into steep narrow lane. Park at the bottom after passing ford.Walk into forest, following track (upstream), over a gate; at junction with road turn R and almost double back on yourself. Walk up the path 20 meters and at graffitied trees turn L onto small path to the main rift of the crag. Takes approx 25 mins from car park.
A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons.
Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag