Malham Cove

Yorkshire Limestone

National landmark & the best limestone crag in the Pennines - great trad routes and steep bolted testpieces.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Yorkshire Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: International CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 275
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: SD896640

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 September.

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Parking and Approach

Please be considerate when parking and using the village. There is limited free parking along the road side leading to the village, but please make sure you leave enough room for large farm vehicles to pass by. Alternative parking is available at the YDNPA car park for a small fee.

Follow public rights of way to access the crag rather than taking shortcuts thorugh the farmers fields below the crag - these are not open acces land and straying from the designated rights of way will strain relationships with the farmer.

Do not park on Cove Road beyond Town Head Barn (where there is a 'no parking for 3 miles' sign). The road is not wide enough and the passing spaces need to be left clear to allow traffic through.

 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Group Advice

The landowner, Kirby Malhamdale Parish Council, does not allow charity or organised abseiling at Malham Cove.

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Anonymous User
04/09/2017
Visited Malham right wing to climb trad routes on 28 August. We climbed Clubfoot and Swingover. We passed an official looking sign just laying in the grass at the bottom of the small path up from the base of the cove. It said no access due to Peregrines. I was fairly certain any restrictions were already lifted and we carried on. Just checked above and it seems there are no restrictions in this area this year. I hope we didn't make a mistake. If we did then I think the information above is misleading but perhaps someone needs to remove the sign? Thank you to all those involved in access work on our behalf at this venue. Martin Hore@virginmedia,com