Northern Limestone (Inland)
An increasingly popular sport climbing venue which commands spectacular views over the sea towards the Great Orme. Over recent years a good number of well bolted sport climbs have been added across the spread of grades from F2 to F8a. Stand out routes include 'Tommy Chamonix' 8a, 'The Shouting Stage' E5 6a and 'Map of the Problematique' F6c+
'Lower Level' - An easily accessible and sheltered level with a number of clip ups from F5+ to F7a
'Main Slab' - An impressive 40 metre slab of excellent quality Micro Diorite F5+ - F8a + trad E5
'The Last Butt One Level' - A well positioned level with a really pleasant walk in from the Sychnant Pass + a range of sport clip ups from F2 to F7a.
Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab
Restrictions apply from 21 March - 30 June.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Last Butt One Level:
Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset).
Level 3:
A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove
Parking and Approach
Last Butt One Level: Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side. Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down and across rightwards to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building.
This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.
Guidebook info currently being updated
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