Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.
Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.
PLEASE note an industrial type fence has now been installed across the entrance to the Quarry at the lower level where you used to be able to walk up to the Nanpantan Slab. People have gained access by ducking under the fence at the top of the Quarry by walking in from Longcliffe Farm and then abseiling down the slab, but this not recommended. The original fence at the top of the Quarry when accessing from the farm has been replaced by a razor wire fence so the Quarry Owners plainly don't want access to take place.
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Parking and Approach
Take J23 off the M1 and follow the A512 towards Shepshed. Turn left at the first traffic lights down Ingleberry Road and follow this to park carefully on the verge by Longcliffe Lodge Farm after passing under the M1. (Access that was previous used from the layby on Nanpantan Road at Grid Ref 497167 is not recommended.)
A footpath leads across the field, at the other side follow a hedge leftwards and cross it where the hedge thins out. From here a track leads down into the quarry.
BUT SEE ABOVE NOTES THAT ACCESS HAS EFFECTIVELY BEEN REMOVED BY INSTALLATION OF INDUSTRIAL FENCES AT LOWER QUARRY LEVELS AND RAZOR WIRE FENCE ON BOUNDARY OF QUARRY ON ACCESS ROUTE VIA LONGCLIFFE FARM
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