Peak Limestone

User attention

Occupied nests have been reported in the crack at the end of the traverse of on the second pitch of Sphynx and near the halfway belay ledge for Jackdaw Grooves (and Broken Toe Groove). The latter nest is at the same level as the belay ledge but to the right and isn't on the line of the abseil.

It would be advisable to avoid Sphynx and Jackdaw Grooves for now until the nests are clear.

from 20/05/2024 to 30/06/2024

A popular collection of buttresses near Matlock Bath with a good selection of classic long, mid-grade routes.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 38
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1963
Grid Reference: SK296578

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure and the provision of new signage (not yet installed by MA). 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently seven in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Catacomb, Broken Toe, Coyote Buttress, Sourpuss, Cat Walk, Lynx and Octopuss. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).


In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.


Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.




Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
Anonymous User
At lunchtime today 3rd July, we were climbing on Upper Tor when a groundsman drove past on his tractor. Half an hour lateras we were preparing to start a second climb he drove by again. This time he stopped and informed us that "this is private land and climbing was prohibited" then he left. Whilst not actually asked to leave we thought it wise to do so.
Anonymous User
We were climbing at Wildcat Upper Tor today and were told by a gardener that it is private land and that climbing is not allowed. He did not actually ask us to leave but we thought it wise to do so.
Anonymous User
Just returned from Wildcat Crag. New owners made it clear (politely) that they are negotiating access currently with BMC. We were just keaving anyway, but we would have been asked to leave if not. Gronds keeper was very amiable and ckearly a climber himself.