As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
There will be restricted access to Raven Tor and Miller's Dale for 3 weeks from the 1st Feb 2020 whilst around 400 ash trees afected by ash dieback are felled in the interest of pubic safety. This work has been purposefully planned during mid-winter to minimise disruption to climbing, but please read on if you're thinking of visiting Raven Tor during these three weeks as access will change while the work is ongoing.
There are a number of trees which are due to be removed from around the crag itself and on the days when this work is taking place, there will be no access to the crag for safety reasons. When there is no tree work taking place near the crag, it will be accessible but only on foot. The road will be closed for the duration of the work and will be managed as an active work site. Whilst pedestrian access will be possible, ensure you follow the instructions of contractors on site and be aware you may have to wait for 30 minutes or more whilst the site is made safe before you're able to walk through.
Importantly, please do not park any vehicle or indeed attempt to stop overnight in a campervan on the closed section of road even if contractors are not on site - this will slow down the work which needs to be completed in a tight timeframe.
from 01/02/2021 to 19/02/2021
A 'National crucible' of hard sport climbing. A huge bastion of overhanging rock giving short (10m) crimpy desperates and multi-pitch pumps over 50m long. Mostly good rock, a bit flaky in places, and polished in others. Top routes are Sardine (7b+), Indecent Exposure (pitch 1, 7b+), The Body Machine (7c), Chimes of Freedom (8a+), Mecca (8b+, Hubble (8c+) and the hardest route in the Peak, Mutation (9a). Not surprisingly, home of hard bouldering too. Powerband and Ben's Roof to name a few. A suntrap - can be too hot!
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Van camping and biving at the crag is strongly discouraged - it is very noticable and likely to cause friction with local residents, the National Trust (landowners) and fisherman who share use of the area. For the sake of maintaining good relationships with these groups and ensuring continued access, please do not park up or bivi overnight here.
Toileting at the crag also has the potential to generate access problems if climbers don't ensure we minimise our impact. If you are caught short, don't head off into the bushes. Instead make the very short trip to Millers Dale where public toilets are available. If you can't wait that long, carry a 'wag bag' with you and pack out all human waste and toilet paper.This iconic crag and it's surroundings deserves better than to serve as an open air toilet when much more reasonable options are available.
Parking and Approach
From the B6049 Tideswell to Buxton road turn left at Miller's Dale (to Litton Mill). Limited parking is available in small laybys below the crag or at the southern end of Tideswell Dale 8 min walk away.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag