Pandy Quarry (Pantymwyn)

Clwyd Limestone

A recently rediscovered and redeveloped limestone venue with easy to mid-grade sports routes. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1980
Grid Reference: SJ194657

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site. Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he does wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 

It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime (October 2019) the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

 

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?