The recent new routes climbed by Robert Jasper in Norway, appear to have produced a mixture of disbelief and shock amongst Norwegian activists and prompted the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub) to issue a formal statement.
When making the first ascent of Fosslimonster (800m: WI 6+ and M8+) Jasper and Schaeli placed nine belay and five protection bolts. Many Norwegian climbers considered this line the number one alpine challenge in the country, with a combination of thin ice on the introductory steep slabs and a band of large overhangs at mid height.
With traditional gear, climbing to the overhangs, only to discover they were too hard, would mean retreat, and this might be impossible as the ice below is normally too thin to place Abalakovs. Several activists realized that the route had the potential to move ice climbing to another level and had been waiting for the right conditions to arrive, shuning the use of bolts in the mountain environment.
As noted in our previous report, in the past Norwegians have kept their achievements on homeground relatively low key. Now they feel it is time to make an announcement on how they want climbing in their country to be valued.
Official Statement from the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub)
February 2009 saw first ascents of two of Norway’s, and probably the World’s, most inspiring and adventurous ice lines: Fosslimonster (800m: WI6+, M8+) and Into the Wild (900m: WI6 X), both located on the west coast of Norway. The ice lines were climbed by an international group that failed to adhere to the appropriate ethical guidelines, and did not meet the Norwegian standards of climbing in good style.
In Norway, the alpine climbing community treasures very highly its code of ethics, summed up in "leave no trace". It is generally considered unacceptable to add bolted anchors on ice and mountain routes, in order to make it easier, safer and more convenient to climb the routes. The same applies to adding bolts on parts of pitches.
The Norwegian Alpine Club considers natural protection an important and integral part of ice and mountain climbing. We aim to preserve the potential for adventurous climbing in the Norwegian mountains for future generations of climbers. Our code of ethics thus makes it necessary to wait for the right weather conditions, and acquire the necessary skills, instead of adding bolts. This is the only way to ensure that full, unspoilt adventure remains for everybody, and not just for the first ascensionists.
Furthermore, the Norwegian Alpine Club finds it totally unacceptable for climbers to claim a right to choose their own style and ethics when climbing in Norway. We find that this is not unique to Norway, but also applies in other countries, such as the UK with regard to its grit and Scottish winter climbing.
The Norwegian Alpine Club welcomes foreign climbers to Norway, and invites everyone to come and explore one of the few, remaining, truly wild, ice climbing havens in the World. However, we take for granted that climbers follow our code of ethics. Norway is one of the last places available to climbers who wish to discover the magic of natural lines that demand the full range of alpine skills.
Robert Jasper's response
I have visited Norway many times and climbed in different areas throughout the country, for a total of several months. In most areas I have found bolted routes on both ice and rock, eg in Setesdal, Rjukan and Hemsedal. I've found them on long multi-pitch routes, and also seen drilled hook placements [drilled holes for pick placements] on some of the mixed climbs in Hemsedal.
From my ethical understanding there is a big difference between bolting a belay, a rappel anchor or a protection point, and drilling a hook placement in order to get up.
Furthermore, it seems strange to me that Norwegian climbers, who according to the Norwegian Alpine Club follow a very strict ethic, go to remote and sensitive areas like Antarctica and Baffin Island, and bolt their belays.
Before coming this time, I contacted two local climbers to get more information. No one mentioned this problem to me, nor during the many visits I have made to Norway before.
On this basis, and having found bolts and drilled hook placements in routes opened by Norwegian climbers, I did not assume that there would be such a strict ethical guideline. I am sorry about this.
For me, ethics have always been an important matter and I try to avoid bolting as far as possible. However, Fosslimonster, on which we placed 14 bolts (plus three pegs and an in situ stopper) in 1,000m of climbing, is very dangerous: climbing it without the bolts we placed would seem irresponsible to us. Obviously, anyone is free to climb the route without them.
As for ethics, I think everybody is responsible, but we must also be true to it and not just write or talk about it. Ethics are not simply for others but mainly for ourselves.
Norwegian climbers report that the drilling in Hemsedal refers to one, much-debated, incident, where a climber under considerable pressure to create something for the (Ice Climbing) World Cup, drilled these placements.
Commenting on Robert Jasper's response, Annelin Henriksen has written a clear statement:
We strongly disagree with Robert Jasper's description of the extent of bolting found on Norway's ice and mountain routes. Generally you will not find routes or rappel anchors bolted when you climb the longer ice or mountain routes in Norway.
However, we do have a few incidents that have caused considerable debate, eg Stetind, where one bolt was put up on the South Pillar. Routes in areas that are more similar to crags have, to some extent, been bolted. But the main picture is that we do not treat long ice lines and mountain routes the same way as crags, precisely to preserve the wilderness, and adventure climbing for everybody.
We expect climbers coming to Norway to be able to see the difference between mountain climbing and crags, and respect it accordingly. If in doubt, we recommend you to act conservatively and not bolt the route.
Expect more on this topic soon, as the Norwegian Alpine Club is making an official response to Robert Jasper's reply.
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