Bolting Routes
Our bolts advice guides come in two parts. Part one is aimed at the climber, in particular those who have learnt to climb indoors and are making the transition outside. It covers the need to know information to help assess the safety of an outdoor sport climb. Part two is newly published and is a guide to current good practice for choosing and installing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and with the correct equipment.
Bolts - a climbers' guide
Climbing outside is very different to the controlled and managed indoor environment. This guide covers what you need to know about the bolts and belays you may encounter when sport climbing outside. It includes tips on assessing problems and what to be aware of. Reading this guide will help you to evaluate and manage any risks for yourself, and allow you to experience the wonderful world of climbing outside more safely.
Bolts - an installers' guide
Placing bolts which you know will be used by other climbers is a serious responsibility. This guide includes the latest advice and guidance on the correct equipment to use and how to install it competently. Published in 2021 with good practice advice.
BMC Bolting Policy
The BMC's formal position statements on drilled equipment reflect the evolution of climbing over the past 20 years and the development of attitudes to drilled equipment and new forms of climbing. They provide guidance on safeguarding traditions and protecting the crag and mountain environment, as well as outlining the consultation process for agreeing new bolting and dry tooling activity.
The Drilled Equipment position statement provides a framework for agreeing where bolts are acceptable and where they are not in terms of climbing ethics.
Bolting Skills Playlist
So you're about to start bolting a route. Have you got all the right equipment? AMI instructor and Chair of the Cumbria Bolt Fund Dan Robinson runs through which kit you need to perform the job securely and effectively.