Crag X Gilwern Hill

South East Wales

32 routes up to 10/12mts in height. Rock is mainly flowstone and can be friable. Fully bolted with lower offs for all routes. The crag is split into 3 sections,Pear buttress has 6 routes and can be found about 100mts east(around the corner into the next bay) of the main wall, the Hindu Kush area containing 11 routes is on the right approx 250mts before the main wall. Because of its altitude it can be cold, but facing west gets any afternoon sun that's going.A good afternoon evening crag in fine weather.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 32
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SO236132

Major Rockfall reported on the 16/11/23. Affecting routes between the Tyre Sector and Ivor Biggun sector. Monmouthshire CC have currently closed the road above to assess the risk.

It's been reported that bats are roosting in cracks between The Plum and Super Passion. Please avoid these routes especially close to dusk.

June 2018 An unknown species of bird seems to be nesting, with a nest with eggs behind a crucial hold, on the route Magic Carpet. Best avoid this route until the end of July. 

Parking and Approach

From Blaenavon take B4246 for approx' 1 mile, turn left at keepers pond towards Lamb and Fox, pass the pub and continue for approx' 1mile until there is a very steep drop into an old quarry. You can park just before the steep drop or there is room for 1 car just after. A small path leads up from the road, follow this trending left until you come to the first wall on your right (11 routes here) continue along the path for 250mts to the main wall.

Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
Was climbing at Gilwern (Gilwern East) and we accidentally disturbed a bat roost on route "Asteriods" 5a.
Anonymous User
missing first clip - magic carpet
while climbing magic carpet this weekend.
on the first bolt the nut must have been a bit loose because as the climber had just passed it the nut unwound and consequently the nut and hanger fell off. we found the hanger and have left it on a small ledge at the bottom of the route in plain site (ledge is also a foothold).
however we couldn't find the nut.
the second clip can be reached with a clip stick, but ideally if anyone is going there could bring a nut, think its an M12. i'd love to fix this myself however we live many many miles away.
happy climbing
Anonymous User
Peregrine Falcons nesting on Gilwern Lower, think somewhere above Tyre Times and Locking nut. Avoid until end of July.