Wintour's Leap & Woodcroft Quarry

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop. from 25/03/2020

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 352
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: ST540962

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes right of Flyhole to protect nesting Schedule 1 birds.

Parking and Approach

COVID-19 update: please use the parking on Lancaut Lane as a first preference for the time being to avoid parking in the village where many residents are still concerned about visitors. If this parking is full, park considerately on the main road in te village, making sure not to obstruct other traffic or driveways.

The vandalised combination lock on the gated entrance to Woodcroft Quarry/Fly Wall has now been repaced and details of how to use it can be found here

Area information

Weather Information

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5
Anonymous User
22/09/2019
Fly Wall and the quarry are OK to use according to other climbers we met there yesterday...who shared the access code for the gate at the top of the quarry
Anonymous User
16/12/2019
The gate lock is still not rectified. Gained access, but is now sticking. Needs sorting asap
Anonymous User
09/02/2020
Visited 8 Feb 2020 and found the gate keypad in good working order :)
Anonymous User
14/05/2020
Lovely day on the shunt keeping our 2 metres apart. Spoilt only by the mindless twats that have vandalised the gate. Also came across the waste bin half way down the crag that was at the view point. Same nobs no doubt.