Blackers Hole

Swanage

The huge sea cave easily seen from the west is home to some of Dorset hardest and most impressive sports climbs and without it access difficulties would be a world class palace of power! But there is other more gentle and not so gentle Trad climbing to be had here abouts and as it is the furthest walk to any Swanage crag is often quite.


Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 46
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1977
Grid Reference: SZ005768

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

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