Carn Gowla


User attention

3 June 2024 update: The National Trust has not yet determined whether Peregrines are nesting at Carn Gowla this season and has asked that climbers avoid the cliffs between Tubby head and Bawden Cliff until further notice. This includes all major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. 

BMC representatives met with the National Trust on 24 May to discuss the situation and dialogue Is ongoing, once the Peregrine nest site(s) are identified sections of the cliffs will be opened up for climbing.

In the UK, Peregrine typically lay a first clutch of 3-4 eggs between 23 March to 28 April after which there is a 30-32 day incubation period then a 39 to 40 day fledging period (ref: BTO).


3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.


from 03/03/0023

Compact rock with some brilliant multi-pitch routes up to 350ft. Protection can be sparse, and pegs should always be treated with care. Aim for Sackful Of Clowns (HVS 5a), The Tomb (E2 5b), The Awakening (E3 5c), America (E4 5c) and Guernica (E6 6b).

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 167
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SW698511

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

2023 Update - Negotiations are underway to establish agreed seasonal restrictions going forward. In the meantime please observe the Temporary Restrictions as detailed above.

Parking and Approach

Tidal in most parts.From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. 400m E is the top of the America Wall. Abseil access is best.

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