The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).
Climbing Area:
Peak District
Rock Type:
Gritstone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
163
Within National Park:
Yes
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
SK196898
Restrictions apply from
1 June
-
15 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 update: Kestrels are nesting in Mock Turtle . Please avoid all routes from Barney Rubble to Sforzando inclusive (this includes Great Buttress ).
Parking and Approach
Either:From parking just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); orFrom Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).Note the car park just north of Strines has been closed since Dec 2008 and will be for 3-5 years to allow timber lorries to access. This leaves limited parking on the roadside.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .
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