The Gap

South East Wales

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 125
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST 07866 96400

Yellow Wagtails seem to be nesting on the route Scrotum Oil on the Right Wall - proabably best to avoid this route and the ones immediately either side until the end of June to allow these nationally scarce birds to fledge.

Parking and Approach

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-

Weather Information

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