Sea birds (usually guillemots), chough and occasionally Peregrines have been known to nest on Main Cliff and don't seem to be bothered by climbers. Having said that, it is best to avoid the route Pentathol from March 1st until July 31st, due to nesting Guillemots, as it is very unpleasant to climb at that time and birds could be disturbed.
May 24- There are several Razorbill nests on Scavenger and the top pitch of Jaborandi. Please avoid until July 31st.
In 2018 a pair of Peregirnes nested on the first traverse pitch of the route Cordon Bleu and that route and the routes immediately surrounding, it were subject to a climbing restriction. If the birds return this year, this restriction will be applied again - look out for on-site signs at the gearing up spot/descent gully.
Parking and Approach
Main Cliff is normally approached from the South Stack car park. Take the tracks on the opposite side of the road to the car park and follow the tracks heading towards the left hand side of Holyhead mountain. About 150m before the cliffs a smaller path will head left down towards the coast, the main cliffs will start appearing. A small grassy area before the main decent is used as a gearing area, depending on what routes you plan on doing. After this a steep path leads down to the cliffs scramble with care towards this area!