Gogarth -Main Cliff

Gogarth Area

One of the most impressive and important sea cliffs in the world! A huge adventure fest of partially tidal climbing, extending across Gogarth Bay.  Quite committing with a difficult scramble descent to the base, well worth having a few grades "in hand"  for a first visit! Main Cliff eventually turns into Easter Island Gully Area. Most of Main cliff can be traversed into with low tide and or calm seas. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: International CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 90
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1964
Grid Reference: SH 21591 83417

Sea birds (usually guillemots), chough and occasionally Peregrines have been known to nest on Main Cliff and don't seem to be bothered by climbers. Having said that, it is best to avoid  the route Pentathol from March 1st  until  July 31st, due to nesting Guillemots, as it is very unpleasant to climb at that time and birds could be disturbed. 

May 24- There are several Razorbill nests on Scavenger and the top pitch of Jaborandi. Please avoid until July 31st.  

In 2018 a pair of Peregirnes nested on the first traverse pitch of the route Cordon Bleu and that route and the routes immediately surrounding, it were subject to a climbing restriction. If the birds return this year, this restriction will be applied again - look out for on-site signs at the gearing up spot/descent gully.

Parking and Approach

Main Cliff is normally approached from the South Stack car park. Take the tracks on the opposite side of the road to the car park and follow the tracks heading towards the left hand side of Holyhead mountain. About 150m before the cliffs a smaller path will head left down towards the coast, the main cliffs will start appearing. A small grassy area before the main decent is used as a gearing area, depending on what routes you plan on doing. After this a steep path leads down to the cliffs scramble with care towards this area!

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments