COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

Shaptor Woods

Dartmoor

Shaptor Woods are one part of the overall area known to climbers as 'Bovey Woods' which contains a huge number of granite boulders and short tors within a beautifiul, wild feeling woodland. The popularity of the area has significantly incresed in recent years and it is more important than ever to take every step to minimise your impact - make sure you follow the access agreement below and help us to maintain access here.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Granite
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 430
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 2005
Grid Reference: SX809806

The excellent and extensive bouldering in Shaptor Woods is a privilege we are afforded thanks to the Woodland Trust (who own to woods) allowing access. Continued access depends upon visiting climbers taking every effort to minimise their impact on the environment, maintain a low profile and look after this special place.

The following interim access agreement has been drawn up to protect the special features of the woods whilst ecological surveys are undertaken to better inform a long term access agreement. Please take the time to understand and follow this agreement so that future climbing access to the woods can continue:

  • No new development / cleaning of new lines. This is paused whilst ecological surveys take place to identify the location of key species, including some lichens which could be hundreds of years old. With over 700 existing problems in the area, there is plenty to do without finding new lines.
  • Please don’t visit the woods after dark for lantern sessions. This can easily disturb roosting birds and concerns nearby neighbours.
  • Minimise chalk use and brush holds when you’re done. Chalk is alkaline which changes the surface chemistry of acidic granite boulders. This can negatively impact important lichens and mosses living on the boulders so make sure you limit the amount of chalk used and ensure chalky holds are brushed clean with a soft brush before moving on.
  • Keep groups to 4 people or less. Small groups have less impact in this peaceful woodland.
  • Stick to existing paths and tracks. Don’t blaze your own trail.
  • Dogs must be on a short lead during nesting season from 1st March-31st July.
  • No fires or BBQ’s.
  • Take your litter home with you and any you might find.
  • Follow the Respect the Rock code.

Parking and Approach

Parking is limited here and can be a real issue if cars block roads or gates. This is almost guarenteed to get climbers a bad name with local farmers and landowners, so make sure you park considerately and think about car sharing to the crag to avoid too many vehicles trying to squeeze in.

Bovey Tracey makes a good meeting point for groups of climbers to combine into a single car if travelling separately.

Group Advice

Unsuitable for large groups - keep group sizes small (4 or less) and low impact.
Area information

Part of the Dartmoor National Park is used by the MoD for training and live-firing exercises. It also offers a wealth of excellent hillwalking and numerous Tors, some of which still have the potential for new climbing development – especially wild bouldering. The Defence Estates endeavour to support public access (without compromising public safety and military training) and have produced a website with the important safety info and firing times. Follow this link http://www.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk/ for the Dartmoor training area homepage and links to detailed info.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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