Birchen Edge

Eastern Gritstone

User attention

A large wobbly block on the ledge at the top of Monument Chimney Crack has been reported to the landowner Eastern Moor Partnership.

There are comments on UKC regarding the block by ascensionists as far back as 2015. 

Climbers are asked to avoid the route itself for now, and avoid using the block if climbing adjacent routes (Topsail, Marie's Gone to Canada, Spinnaker, and Monument Chimney). 

Investigations with a view to removal will follow shortly and this notice will be updated.

from 04/06/2024

Popular venue, sometimes polished, with a good range of climbs from delicate to thuggy.....not as straightforward as they look. Plus some worthwhile fast drying bouldering.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 185
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1912
Grid Reference: SK280725

No access issues reported. Please do not use the Obelisk as an anchor.

Parking and Approach

Pay and display parking is available at the National Trust carpark next to the Robin Hood Inn. Sometimes an overflow carpark in the field opposite is also opened. Please do not park in the pub carpark itself. The crag can also be approached from the Gardom's Edge parking, the walk in being only 200m longer.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Group Advice

Eastern Moor Partnership who manage the crag require that groups of over fifteen contact them in advance of a visit:

Please do not use the Obelisk as a belay or abseil anchor or organise group abseils down the Orpheus Wall. All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC guidelines for group use, see here,

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
Great crag. Overspill car park at Robin Hood Pub clossd so parked at the Gardoms parking. Unsure why it wasnt open? 20.5.18
Anonymous User
There was a sign in the Topsail area asking folk not to climb as there were Jackdaws nesting. This week there were no signs of any birds in this area; I think that all will be OK until next spring...
Anonymous User
At the top of Monument Chimney Crack there is a bog wobbly boulder to be wary of...