5th for Will Bosi at Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup

Posted by Peter Burnside on 16/07/2018
Will Bosi controls the jump and swing on the finals route. Photo: IFSC / Eddie Fowke
View 1 of 2

An amazing weekend for Will Bosi as he became the first British male to make an IFSC Lead World Cup final in nearly 30 years. And if that wasn’t enough, he also set a new British record on the Speed wall.

The GB Climbing Team headed to Chamonix for the second IFSC Lead event of the year, some fresh from the British Bouldering Championships only the weekend before and others having competed in the previous IFSC Lead event in Villars. It was a great performance all round from the team, but an outstanding result for Will Bosi, who climbed brilliantly throughout the whole competition and in the final came within three moves of the podium.

Domen Skofic of Slovenia and Alex Megos of Germany both managed 46+ moves, but Alex just pipped Domen and won the bronze medal on countback. Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy took the gold medal with the only top of the finals route. Meanwhile in the women's, Jain Kim of Korea came within two moves of the top to win bronze. Janja Garnbret of Slovenia looked likely to take home another gold medal when she surpassed the previous high point and slapped the top hold of the finals route, however, Jessica Pilz of Austria eased her way across the final holds to match the top jug and claim her first IFSC World Cup victory.

Having made 43+ moves, Will came in a very respectable 5th place in his first ever senior Lead final and became the first British male to reach an IFSC Lead World Cup final since the late 90s. After an unfortunate Qualifiers, Jim Pope came in 55th and Dave Barrans 86th.

Over in the women’s, Emily Phillips came within striking distance of semi-finals in 38th, Hannah Slaney the new British Bouldering Champion was not far behind in 42nd, meanwhile Rhoslyn Frugtniet and Jen Wood came in 73rd and 75th, respectively.

It might be the first senior IFSC Lead world cup for the males in 20 years but not so for the females. Just last year, Molly Thompson-Smith and Shauna Coxsey both made Lead finals; Shauna placed sixth in her first senior lead comp while Molly became the first British female to win a lead medal when she took bronze.

Ian Dunn, GB Climbing Team coach, said on Facebook: “Who was the last GB male climber to make a lead WC final? From what I remember, Ben Moon and Malcolm Smith made finals in the Birmingham competitions at the NIA in the 1990s, Ian Vickers made finals too and before that Jerry Moffat, Simon Nadin, Mark Leach, Ian Vincent, and Tony Ryan. Great effort by William Bosi, you have joined a strong group there!”

There’s no easy way to look back on the international results of British males, but according to sources it’s likely that Ian Vickers was the last to reach an international final back in 1998, which is also the year that Will Bosi was born!

WATCH: The Chamonix IFSC Lead finals highlights

Results of the IFSC Lead World Cup, Chamonix 2018

Men:
1st: Stefano Ghisolfi
2nd: Jakob Schubert
3rd: Alex Megos
4th: Domen Skofic
5th: Will Bosi
6th: Shuta Tanaka
7th: Taisei Homma
8th: Sascha Lehmann
 
55th: Jim Pope
86th: Dave Barrans
 
Women:
1st: Jessica Pilz
2nd: Janja Garnbret
3rd: Jain Kim
4th: Ashima Shiraishi
5th: Mei Kotake
6th: Anak Verhoeven
7th: Akiyo Noguchi
8th: Hannah Schubert
 
38th: Emily Phillips
42nd: Hannah Slaney
73rd: Rholsyn Frugtniet
75th: Jen Wood

Speed climbing – new British record

In the Speed qualifiers just the day before the Lead comp, Will managed to rocket past his previous best when he climbed more than a second faster than when he took the title at the British Speed Championship in 2017.  Will had previously set the British speed climbing record at Innsbruck in September 2017, when he posted a time of 8.45 seconds that helped him qualify for the final of the combined format. But at the IFSC Speed World Cup on the weekend, Will cruised past his old best to finish with a time of 7.66 seconds, a new British record.


GB Climbing is supported by the BMC, Mountaineering Scotland and Secur-it.

The GB Ice Climbing Team is supported by Montane. Many UK walls also support the GB Climbing through free or subsidised entry.

🧗‍♀️ FOLLOW: GB Climbing's Instagram for exclusive photos and results

📺 WATCH: GB Climbing YouTube Playlist

👀 VISIT: GB Climbing website for athlete profiles

🐦SCROLL: GB Climbing Twitter for live updates

👍 LIKE: GB Climbing Facebook for more news and pics

JOIN: Become a BMC member and support GB Climbing here

HIGHLIGHTS: 2019 La Sportiva British Bouldering Championships

🇬🇧


« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 1761 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

The British Bouldering Championships 2021
0
The British Bouldering Championships 2021

Are you ready? We're excited to announce the return of the La Sportiva BMC British Bouldering Championships after a two-year hiatus. Take part to see if all your #quarantraining has paid off! Full details below:
Read more »

GB Climbing Team set for IFSC Boulder World Cups
0
GB Climbing Team set for IFSC Boulder World Cups

The GB Climbing Team is flying out to Salt Lake City, Utah, on Friday to compete at two IFSC Boulder World Cup events – the first competitions in a year for many of the athletes. We can’t wait to see them back in action.
Read more »

UK Sport funds GB Climbing to uncover the champions of tomorrow
1
UK Sport funds GB Climbing to uncover the champions of tomorrow

With plans for £352million investment in Olympic and Paralympic sport, UK Sport has announced Progression Funding for seven sports – including climbing – to uncover and support the champions of tomorrow.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

The British Bouldering Championships 2021
0

Are you ready? We're excited to announce the return of the La Sportiva BMC British Bouldering Championships after a two-year hiatus. Take part to see if all your #quarantraining has paid off! Full details below:
Read more »

GB Climbing Team set for IFSC Boulder World Cups
0

The GB Climbing Team is flying out to Salt Lake City, Utah, on Friday to compete at two IFSC Boulder World Cup events – the first competitions in a year for many of the athletes. We can’t wait to see them back in action.
Read more »

UK Sport funds GB Climbing to uncover the champions of tomorrow
1

With plans for £352million investment in Olympic and Paralympic sport, UK Sport has announced Progression Funding for seven sports – including climbing – to uncover and support the champions of tomorrow.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »