This summer has seen an unfathomable series of gear thefts from sport routes in North Wales. On several occasions over the last three months, unsuspecting climbers have arrived triumphant at the lower off at the top of a climb – only to find it’s not there.

The Llanberis slate quarries, Ty Newydd Crag near Prestatyn, and Penmaen Head have all felt the light fingers of the lower-off liberator. The bolts themselves are not taken – simply the lower-off equipment such as chains, carabiners and maillons.

“It’s hard to understand why someone is doing this,” said Elfyn Jones, BMC Access Officer for Wales. “It's possible that some climbers are unaware that this gear is an essential part of the belay and not some ‘crag swag’ up for grabs. But that’s unlikely.”

The theft of lower offs raises concerns for many reasons. The result is not just inconvenience, but increased risk and damage to the environment. They are placed for a number of reasons. Some are there to protect cliff-top ecosystems, or to enable climbers to lower off below the loose, dangerous tops. 

Due to the relatively inaccessible positions of the equipment, it would seem most likely that it is climbers who are removing the equipment. This is particularly galling to the volunteers and local activists who have put time and money into placing them.

“It takes about an hour of graft to get these in,” said one equipper. “And they’re costing me fifteen quid a pop. If I ever find out who is doing this I’ll do my best to point out the error of their ways.”

In the meantime climbers are asked to keep an eye out for anyone removing lower offs. If you see this happening explain to the ‘removers’ the purpose of the equipment and ask them to replace it.

If this is you, and you are reading this, contact the BMC and we will arrange the return of the equipment to its owners.

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