Video: Bolt hanger damage to karabiners

Posted by Dan Middleton, BMC Technical Officer on 17/07/2009
Sharp edges left by bolt hanger

This video, made in the 90's, explains how bolt hangers can damage karabiners. The sharp edges left on karabiners can cause serious damage to ropes. For this reason, never use your bolt clipping 'biners to clip into the rope.

Extenders or quickdraws used for sports climbing should always have the same end clipped into the bolt. Some bolt hangers can damage the karabiner, leaving rough burrs or edges. A rope clipped into such a karabiner can be seriously damaged, and possibly even severed in the event of a fall.



The solution is to use distinct karabiners for clipping into the bolt and rope, for example:

  1. Straight-gates for the bolt, bent-gates for the rope
  2. Have the rope clipping 'biner kept captive by a rubber band or "String"
  3. Use colour codes, such as Blue 'biners for Bolts, Red for the Rope

In addition,  make sure you rack your extenders on your harness the right way up so that you don't have to think about it in extremis!



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 1446 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Bolts advice guides
1
Bolts advice guides

Our bolts advice guides come in two parts. Part one is aimed at the climber, in particular those who have learnt to climb indoors and are making the transition outside. It covers the need to know information to help assess the safety of an outdoor sport climb. Part two is newly published and is a guide to current good practice for choosing and installing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and with the correct equipment.
Read more »

Request for inspection for Petzl ropes
0
Request for inspection for Petzl ropes

Petzl are requesting that any individual or club who has purchased one of their low-stretch Kernmantle ropes inspect them immediately for damage.
Read more »

Bolting Skills: new BMC TV film series
0
Bolting Skills: new BMC TV film series

Ever wondered about the dark art of bolting? In association with the Cumbria Bolt Fund and Association of Mountain Instructors, BMC TV presents it's latest film series: bolting skills. So whether you're looking to brush up on your knowledge or are fascinated to find out how it's done, have a watch and learn - it's real drilling!
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Bolts advice guides
1

Our bolts advice guides come in two parts. Part one is aimed at the climber, in particular those who have learnt to climb indoors and are making the transition outside. It covers the need to know information to help assess the safety of an outdoor sport climb. Part two is newly published and is a guide to current good practice for choosing and installing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and with the correct equipment.
Read more »

Request for inspection for Petzl ropes
0

Petzl are requesting that any individual or club who has purchased one of their low-stretch Kernmantle ropes inspect them immediately for damage.
Read more »

Bolting Skills: new BMC TV film series
0

Ever wondered about the dark art of bolting? In association with the Cumbria Bolt Fund and Association of Mountain Instructors, BMC TV presents it's latest film series: bolting skills. So whether you're looking to brush up on your knowledge or are fascinated to find out how it's done, have a watch and learn - it's real drilling!
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »