Will Bosi finally repeats Mutation

Posted by Alex Messenger on 02/11/2021
Will Bosi climbing Mutation. Photo: Jake Thompson.

GB Climbing Team member Will Bosi, 22, from Edinburgh, has repeated Steve McClure's climb Mutation at Raven Tor in the Peak District National Park - 23 years after its first ascent.

Mutation has been a long running project for Will who opened his account on the line four years and 40 sessions ago before finally climbing the route late Sunday evening on 31st October.

What makes the repeat so remarkable is that the route is at Raven Tor, a sport climbing destination near Sheffield, yet it's still taken so long to see a repeat.

Will commented:

"Finally! This was by far and away my longest project on a route and I am so happy to clip the chains on it. It is so typical of the redpointing game that the route went down on the last go of the day with little expectation that I would send it! Full credit to Steve McClure on an amazing first ascent and for establishing a climb with such amazing moves."

Will was not even born when the route was first established in October 1998 by British climbing icon and BMC ambassador Steve McClure.

Steve commented on the first repeat:

"My first reaction when I got the news was 'Awesome!' I was so psyched for Will that he had finally done Mutation. A few years ago, I was really worried that the route was going to gather dust and not see a repeat so it was great when Will opened his account on it. Obviously, I think he took probably longer than he would have wanted on it but for me, the route is at the absolute limit with no margin for error. You need to have the route dialled, be in great shape and have perfect conditions so I am really happy that it all came together for Will!"

"Will really impresses me, not only with his skill and strength, but also his interest in the history of climbing and his ethics. He's an excellent ambassador for this current generation of cutting-edge climbers.

"It is amazing that Mutation took so long to get a repeat. Everyone will ask why. Well, because it's because its hard! But, more than that, it's at Raven Tor and the climbing there is really specific: you need to be in the zone and 'Tor Strong'. It looks like it's moved up a grade (or 2! - I first actually graded it 'possible 9a'). I'd never have imagined that at the time, or have even dared to grade it above 9a even if I did."

On the subject of the grade, Will commented:

"Honestly, I think I lost all concept of the grade on this one about 20 sessions ago! However, I do know it cannot be 9a as the first half of the route is Evolution and gets 8c+. I sent Evolution in three attempts in the middle of July, in contrast to send just the Mutation extension link took me around five days! So in my head the top half has to be at least 8c+ too…? Now 8c+ into 8c+ definitely doesn’t make 9a. Also to note, I reckon I must have sent Evolution hundreds of times by now which makes it even harder to grade, the bottom only takes about a minute to climb through now also!

So is Mutation the world's first 9b? Maybe, time will tell with other ascensionists but I think I will go for 9a+ for now…".


Steve McClure on the first ascent back in 1998. Photo: Keith Sharples. 

Will is now training for future outdoor projects abroad.

Will is sponsored by adidas Terrex, adidas Five Ten, Entre-Prises Climbing, DMM, Lattice, Beta Climbing and Friction Labs

WATCH: Steve McClure climb Hubble (9a)


 

WATCH: Respect the Rock: Raven Tor


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