How to go deep-water soloing

Rock Climbing Skills
02 Jul
4 min read

Here's all you need to know about deep water soloing

What is DWS?

It’s easy to think that deep-water soloing is just the same as the other wild sports like base jumping. Well, it doesn't have to be extreme. Like most climbing, deep-water soloing is as exciting as you want it to be. At one end of the spectrum, you’ve got ‘pretty spicy’ climbing: so high above the water that it might as well be concrete.

But, on the other hand, you’ve got a fun activity that’s just a small hop up from coasteering (scrambling around on rocks just above the sea, much-loved by stag-dos and scouts). For example, the route The Magical Mystery Tour at Berry Head rarely goes ten-feet above the water, with any falls bruising the ego far more than arse or limb.

Where can you go deep-water soloing?

Where seems to be pretty obvious: the only crucial elements being cliffs and deep water – and luckily here in Britain, we live on a small island. The southwest coastline of England and Wales offers a huge stomping ground for the budding DWS-er, with the main hotspots being Swanage, Lulworth, Portland, Devon, Cornwall and Pembroke.

When to go deep-water soloing?

This question can be more trick-some. We might live on an island but it’s one with 150 wet days a year and lots of cold weather. Spring in Britain might be warm, but the sea won’t be, you'll need to wait for the sea to warm up. In September it can be as high as 19°C. There’s always Mallorca too: the ‘in’ place for DWS-ing, providing perfectly warm sea and air temperatures.

WATCH: How to Deep Water Solo on BMC TV

Gear

Since water is always wet, a good DWS-er will always have replacement boots, chalk bag, chalk and clothes. An abseil rope might be helpful if you can’t climb to the start of routes. The trick is to make a harness out of slings, which is easy to get out of and then leave on the rope before going for it. Towels are also winners. Apart from that, the nice thing about DWS-ing is the lack of gear you actually need.

Is today a good day?

Assessing conditions might be more complicated than you think. Although you might just be in it for the sun and bikinis, DWS-ing can actually be pretty dangerous – especially if you can’t swim too well. It’s not rocket science though: learn to swim confidently, don’t go when the sea’s too rough or the tide too low and always check what you’re falling into. Getting washed into the rocks by powerful waves is a big danger – even if you’re a strong swimmer, you won’t be with concussion.

How to hit the water

This is more important than you might think. Hazel Findlay recounts "Once I was soloing in Thailand and I witnessed a friend fall wrong. He let go, twisted in the air and fell onto his back. He rose to the surface coughing and spluttering a mixture of blood and seawater. As the next one in line, I was sure to listen to Tim Emmett’s advice: “kick  and move in the air until you hit the water, at which point become a pencil. It worked. My friend’s problem was that he was too rigid in the air, so as he fell, he span and landed on his back."

In order to prevent this rigidity, keep upright, moving your arms and legs in the air as you fall, then become streamlined as you enter the water.

How to look like Chris Sharma

Well most of us can’t, but in other words, how do you get good enough to pull off the hard moves high up? Like anything, you need to put the time in. Go to Mallorca, or somewhere with guaranteed action, and ‘get amongst it’. At first, you might not want to go high, then you might go high but not fall, next, you might fall but not mid-move.

Falling mid-move, at your limit, is the main goal for any DWS-er, whatever the grade. Learning how to fall properly and then having the mental capacity to fall mid-move whilst at your limit means you’ll be able to really push your grade. Unburdened from rope and rack you may even find that your DWS grade shoots past your trad or sport grade.

Deep water soloing has got something for everyone: hard, fluid movement for the boulders, height for the super-fit sport climbers and a bit of spice for trad climbers. And for those who can’t really be bothered, there's sun, sea, bikinis and a fun day out with a group of mates. See you at the beach.

Find out more:

Deep Water by Mike Robertson, Rockfax. The definitive guide to exotic, watery fun around the world.

Safety is paramount

Since an unfortunate incident in 2016, the BMC has updated its safety guidelines; particularly to include information about Cold Water Shock. Please read the information below carefully before attempting any DWS.

There is one golden rule with DWS: never go alone. And before you head out, tell others of your plans, where you're going, expected return times, and contact details.

Be wary of the phenomenon known as Cold Water Shock, which is a real danger in water below 15°C. Remember, the sea around the UK can often stay at dangerously low temperatures for much of the year. Even if the surrounding air temperature is relatively warm, say in Spring, the sea stays cold up until late August.

Sudden exposure of your head and body to cold water can be lethal in minutes, meaning it occurs well before the effects of hypothermia so is far deadlier. Cold Water Shock causes a number of instant, powerful, involuntary respiratory reflexes, such as sudden increase in heart and blood pressure that may result in cardiac arrest, even to strong swimmers and people in good health.

Make sure you know the easiest exit well before heading up the route. It’s a great idea to drop a few ab lines around to assist exits or for potential rescues. For high routes, people often take a little boat (usually a rubber dingy) for pulling people out if it all goes wrong – at the very least it makes a brilliant vantage point for heckling.

Signs of Cold Water Shock:

  1. Initial cold shock response (0–3mins)

    Immediately after immersion in cold water, rapid cooling of the skin causes a number of instinctive and reactions including gasping, hyperventilation, restriction of blood flows, and panic.

  2. Short term responses – Loss of performance (3–30mins)

    Following the cold shock response, the hands, feet, arms and legs start to cool and blood flow continues to be restricted. This causes a decrease in muscle strength and endurance leading to muscle fatigue and reduced control over body movements. If the casualty is unable to get out of the water or use a buoyancy aid, this will ultimately result in drowning.

  3. Long term responses – Hypothermia (30mins+)

    Over time, significant heat lost causes the core body temperature to drop leading to hypothermia.

FIND OUT MORE: About Cold Water Shock on the RNLI website

DWS Q&A with Expert Tim Emmett

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