Five historic walking routes to explore Scotland in autumn and winter

Header photo: Neil Birch

Unbeknownst to many, an ancient network of historic routes criss-cross Scotland, adding up to around 7600km of paths to explore. If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure, these are the routes to look out for – although of course, you’re technically very much on the beaten path with these tracks and trails. Made up of everything from old military routes to medieval driving roads, you’ll be following centuries, or even millennia, later, in the footsteps of Roman legionaries, pilgrims, drovers, traders and funeral parties.

ScotWays, author of the fully revised sixth edition of Scottish Hill Tracks, is an organisation which works to protect, maintain and celebrate these paths, keeping routes which are part of Scotland’s cultural heritage and protecting public access since 1845.

Now formally named the Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society, ScotWays’ roots can be traced back to the 1840s, when landowners were becoming increasingly protective of their property at the same time as tourism and walking for leisure were gaining popularity. One of ScotWays’ first cases concerned the right of way through Glen Tilt, where in 1847 the Sixth Duke of Atholl denied access to a group of botanists from Edinburgh University (they leapt over a wall, despite harsh warning from the Duke’s ghillies, rather than retrace their steps to Braemar). The matter was taken to court, eventually reaching the House of Lords where the right of way was ultimately vindicated.

It was victories such as these, alongside growing threats to access, which spurred ScotWays into action from the latter part of the 19th century onwards. Signposting began, to help users identify where they had a right of way despite landowner resistance; one of the very first routes to be signposted was the iconic hill-walk through the pass of the Lairig Ghru in the Cairngorms. Today, after over a century of hard work from dedicated volunteers, ScotWays green and white signposts can be seen all over the country, showing walkers, runners, cyclists and equestrians safe passage through Scotland’s wild and varied landscapes.

Thanks to the tireless work of organisations such as ScotWays, and many more, in Scotland, the general right of access to land and water and freedom for outdoor enthusiasts to explore is greater than that of any other country in the UK. Take advantage of this privilege by looking for a ScotWays signpost on your next adventure – or choose from one of these 5 historic routes below.

Five historic walking routes in Scotland

With the weather on the turn as we head into the latter part of autumn and winter, these lower level routes are perfect for days when the tops are looking a little too blowy. When accessing these routes, it’s good to bear in mind that general access rights in Scotland are allowed as long as the user behaves responsibly, defined by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, and summarised as:

• Respect the interests of others
• Care for the environment
• Take responsibility for your own actions

The routes selected are one day walks, where the start and finish points can be accessed by car or are served by public transport. Many of the walking routes in Scottish Hill Tracks are linear, stemming from their heritage as specific ways to get from A to B; readers are encouraged to look at the maps and see how the routes connect. You could take a longer day, or perhaps a few days with stops in bothies or by wild camping; there’s the option to design excellent adventurous circuits that take you back to where you started, or to another town to find refreshments and transport home.

Circuit of the Arrochar Alps from the head of Loch Long

17km, 760m ascent and descent (5-6 hours)

This spectacular route goes through the heart of the Arrochar Alps, passing between the five best-known peaks of this group, including the Cobbler and Beinn Ime. A zig-zagging start through forested slopes leads up to the Allt a’ Bhalachain dam, from which the burn is followed past the famous Narnain boulders. The circuit leads on from there, over burns and through scenic glens, before joining an old droving road back to the start.

Corrour Station (Loch Ossian) to Fort William by Glen Nevis

34km, 380m ascent, 780m descent (10 - 12 hours)

This is a fine and challenging route amongst the highest mountains in Lochaber. It can be completed from one Youth Hostel to another (Loch Ossian to Glen Nevis) or by rail (Corrour to Fort William). Conditions underfoot can be wet and rough, and much of the route is in remote terrain, requiring care and experience. The route can be split via an overnight using one of the two MBA bothies on route.  
From Corrour, this route crosses the railway to head toward Loch Treig and continues round the head of the loch to Creaguaineach Lodge. From there, it heads up the Abhainn Rath, passing Staoineag Bothy, and then west to Luibelt, near which is Meanach Bothy. The route then heads to Tom an Eite through wild terrain (not advised when the rivers are in spate) before following the Water of Nevis to reach Steall Cottage. From there, simply follow the Glen Nevis path and then minor road to the Youth Hostel or Fort William. 

Ardmolich (Loch Moidart) to Lochailort by Glen Moidart

17km, 810m ascent, 790m descent (5-6 hours)

A dramatic route through the heart of Moidart, crossing the Rois Bheinn ridge. This walk could be completed easily by shuttle; the end point is Lochailort, a hamlet on the Road to the Isles between Fort William and Mallaig. From Ardmolich, the route follows the River Moidart and Loch nan Lochan to reach the ruined cottage of Assary. A steep pathless climb north then leads to the Bealach an Fhìona, before descending into Coire a' Bhùiridh. The route then goes down the west side of the Allt a' Bhùiridh, where in due course a clear path appears, leading to a pass on the side of Tom Odhar. The final few kilometres weave through regenerative birchwood to the valley floor and a track to Lochailort.

Feshiebridge to Nethy Bridge by the Thieves Road

35km, 410m ascent, 440m descent (10 - 11 hours). This route can be split into smaller parts by starting or finishing at Loch Morlich, which is accessible by bus from Aviemore.

This is an excellent low-level route through the Cairngorms, reputedly used by cattle reivers heading for Glen Feshie and the south. From Feshiebridge, follow forest tracks and trails through the Rothiemurchus estate, crossing over the Cairngorm Club Footbridge and the ‘Piccadilly’ junction to reach the shores of Loch Morlich. North-east from Glenmore leads up past the picturesque Green Lochan and Ryvoan bothy, before passing a short section of open moorland which leads to the pinewood of the RSPB Abernethy Forest and down to Nethy Bridge.

Strath Canaird (Ullapool) to Achilitibuie

17km, 560m ascent, 540m descent (5 - 6 hours)

A spectacular and largely waymarked route on what was the postman’s path on the original route between Ullapool and Achilitibuie. The usual starting point is the car park just west of Blughasary. Cross the bridge over the River Runie and then follow the path south-west, crossing a burn to start heading steeply north-west uphill. The path bears left on a traverse with stunning views to Isle Martin, before descending gradually across rough ground, following cairns and posts above sea cliffs next. The route then cuts inland to find a well-made path leading to the road to Achiltibuie.

Find full route descriptions and nearly 350 more routes in Scottish Hill Tracks.