The BMC and Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) support climbing expeditions around the world. View the reports from these expeditions here. From 2000 most reports are downloadable as pdfs.For earlier reports, please contact the office.

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LATEST REPORTS

Nepal Ghunsadhar 2023
Region: Nepal
Sub-Region: East Nepal
Date: 14/10/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/09
For 3 weeks in October 2023 James Hoyes, Leanne Dyke, Neil Cox and Tom Harding visited the Kachenjunga region of northeast Nepal, attempting a first ascent of Ghunsadhar (5,740m). There are no other known attempts of this peak. The team and their 160kg of food and equipment flew from London to Kathmandu, and then journeyed overland to Taplejung, a large district in the far east of Nepal. From here they travelled 50km on foot and via 4WD to Ghunsa, a small settlement near the foot of their objective. In an 8-day push from Ghunsa the team climbed to just above 5,400m but were ultimately unsuccessful in their objective as a result of illness, poor rock quality and technical climbing difficulty.
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Salimor Khola Expedition - 2023
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 27/09/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/08
An exploration of the Salimor Khola gorge with attempts on a number of mountains including a successful ascent of the northwest face of Surma Sarovar.
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Dih Sar Expedition 2023
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 06/09/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/10
Our main objective was to make the first ascent of Dih Sar 6,207m by the east ridge. Our plan involved crossing Joshi Pass 5,423m to reach base camp in the Dih Dur Valley. Unfortunately, Tim got altitude sickness approaching the pass and he returned to Shimshal village to recover. Meanwhile porters carried some climbing gear, a tent and some supplies up to Joshi Pass so Tim and I could operate from there if he returned. We would either go down to Dih Sar base camp to attempt Dih Sar or climb peaks above the pass. While Tim walked back to Shimshal village with the porters, I went up to the pass alone. The next day I climbed along a ridge north of the pass. This was the south ridge of Shar Izat Peak 5,930m, which had been climbed previously by a different route. I crossed two tops on the ridge which was easy (Facile grade) but corniced, and after 1.5 kms reached a third top, the highest at 5,696m (GPS). According to Janusz Mayer, who led a 2022 attempt on Dih Sar, these tops are probably unclimbed. They are marked as 25,26 and unmarked on the Jerzy Wala map. My high point had little prominence as beyond it the ridge dropped a short distance to a col before rising up towards a top marked 29 and then the summit of Shar Izat Peak. The ground ahead looked trickier for solo climbing, so I returned to my tent at the pass. The next morning, I learned by Inreach that Tim was not coming back up, so we arranged porters for our return to Shimshal village, ending the expedition.
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Boesam 2023
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 27/08/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/13
Between 27th August and 25th September, Lee Harrison and Arran Turton-Phillips visited the Boesam Valley in the Ghujerab Mountains, to the north of Shimshal in Pakistan. The team had twice needed to radically change their itinerary due to logistical problems. The original objectives in India were cancelled due to permit problems, and upon arrival in Shimshal the team were unable to recruit the sufficient number of porters needed to visit the Virjerab Glacier. The team were forced to change itinerary to somewhere accessible with donkeys and two days later a base camp was placed at Perchodwashk (4580m), to north of the Boesam Pass (4980m). From here, the team made a successful first ascent of Peak 5880m (36°32'29"N 75°23'60"E) via the SE Boesam Glacier and North Buttress. D- difficulty. Boe Sar SE is suggested as a name, given the peak’s location at the head of the SE Boesam Glacier. The ascent was in an alpine style over two days, with a bivouac on the col at the base of the north buttress. During the first day, the team made an impromptu second ascent of Peak 5625m, via a new route up the South Ridge. Alpine grade PD. The team also climbed Koh-e-Brobar, via a new route up the central couloir of the SW face, in a single day. AD difficulty and 850m gain in height.
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Kokshaal Too Expedition 2023
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Russia
Date: 27/08/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/15
The team climbed new routes on Pik Gronky and attempted others elsewhere. The area still has a lot of remaining potential and is an inspiring range on a par with the bigger alpine faces.
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British Patkhor Expedition 2023
Region: Central Asia/CIS
Sub-Region: Russia
Date: 01/07/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/04
An attempt on an unclimbed line on the North Face of Patkhor. Retreat was made from near the summit. At 6083m Patkhor is the highest peak in the Rushan Pamir. It was first climbed by a Russian team including Evgeny Abalakov (brother of Vitali Abalakov) via the West Ridge in 1946. Since then there have been several ascents from the south and one ascent from the north. The north face route was climbed in 1975 by a six man Leningrad team led by Oleg Kapitanov. They climbed a line between the two huge ice cliffs on the north face for which they were awarded 3rd place in the High Altitude Technical Ascent Class of the USSR Championships.
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Khurdopin Sar Expedition 2023
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 16/06/2023
MEF Reference: BMC 23/03
The team spent a week in a small bivi tent at ABC while it snowed; and as it didn't relent they retreated and with no time left, dropped back to base camp on the 11th of July.
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British/Irish Barnaj II Expedition 2022
Region: India
Sub-Region: Ladakh & Zanskar
Date: 19/09/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/06
The expedition included: Dave Sharpe, Will Harris, Callum Johnson, Tom Seccombe and Matt Glenn. The expedition in country support was provided by Himalayan Run and Trek. The expedition made attempts to climb Chiring 6100m and Barnaj II to the north summit via the unclimbed north face. The team succeeded in climbing the North Face of Barnaj II to a subsidiary peak (Barnaj II East) to a high point of 6303m. The expedition was supported generously by MEF, BMC and AC grants as well as Mountain Equipment, DMM, Basecamp Foods,Cascade Designs and Petzl.
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Yawash Sar I-IV 2022 Expedition
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Hindu Kush
Date: 11/09/2022
MEF Reference: xxx
This expedition planned to explore and make the first ascent of Yawash Sar I 6258m via the West Ghidims Valley, and to undertake exploration and documentation of Yawash Sar III & IV, also unclimbed. Our visit to the area hoped to build on the work of previous visitors, including that of team member Karim Hayat.
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2022 East Karakoram Expedition
Region: India
Sub-Region: East Karakoram
Date: 01/09/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/05
Between the 1st September and 1st October 2022 five members of the Alpine Club travelled to India intent on extending the exploration of the extensive Rassa Glacier region of the Nubra Valley and attempting the ascent of one or more of its many unclimbed 6,000m peaks. Flying via Delhi to Leh (3,500m) in Ladakh, they first spent four days acclimatising to the altitude before crossing the 5,370m Khardung La to the Nubra Valley. After spending a night near the village of Tirit, the team then began a three-day trek up the Tirit Phu to establish a base camp at 4,750m, a little beyond the summer pasture of Arganglas and close to the confluence of the Rassa and Phunangma glacial outflows. Having identified an optimised access to the lower Rassa Glacier, an advance base camp was subsequently established on a sandy depression in the moraine at 5,100m on 13th September. Further forays identified a suitable high camp on the glacier proper, at the foot of the unexplored second glacial spur at 5,500m. From this camp team members extensively reconnoitred this glacial spur and two members successfully made the first ascent of PK6365 (Dagarpheth Kangri) via the ESE Ridge at Alpine AD on the 20th September. Further exploration was precluded by the onset of bad weather, forcing a retreat to base camp and an earlier return to Leh.
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Shimshal Expedition 2022
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Shimshal & Hispar
Date: 14/08/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/22
An expedition to the Gunj-e Dur valley in search of unclimbed mountains.
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British Slovenian Gasherbrum Expedition 2022
Region: Pakistan
Sub-Region: Baltoro
Date: 05/07/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/13
Gasherbrum 3 new route attempt (7952m). Our original idea of the SW ridge was aborted due to very strong prevailing SW winds. We therefore attempted G3 from the north face/ ridge to seek more shelter from the winds/weather. Our high point was around 7800 metres but we retreated due to a large (~100m) tower which was much harder than we could feasibly climb under the circumstances, and couldn’t easily be bypassed. I’d like to go back to the SW ridge of G3 as the rock looks pretty good (granite), as opposed to the rest of the Gasherbrum group which is junk marble/limestone. The poor rock caused us to dismiss another idea (the west face of G4).
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Greenland Sea to Summit 2022
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: West Greenland
Date: 29/06/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/10
Over 65 days, our team of six travelled ~450km along the west coast of Greenland via inflatable sea kayak and established new climbing routes on some of the huge granite cliffs rising straight out of the Arctic Ocean.
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MEDUSA CLIMBING EXPEDITION, East Greenland 2022
Region: Greenland
Sub-Region: East Greenland
Date: 14/06/2022
MEF Reference: BMC 22/17
This was a sailing and climbing trip, both of which felt very adventurous at times. We sailed to Greenland from Glasson Dock (UK) on the well-equipped yacht Medusa, a Vancouver 34C. After an arduous three-week Atlantic crossing we arrived into Nanortalik, a small town on the South coast of Greenland. Feeling exhausted and dishevelled we planned to do some ‘warm-up’ climbing in an area known as Point 72, halfway up the nearby Tasermuit Fjord. We spent about 5 days in this area, adjusting to the climate and the climbing. Once the winds dropped and clouds dispersed, we were lucky enough to repeat some of the famous route, War and Poetry 5.12c, on Ulamertorsuaq (1858m). Feeling a bit more human we moved our attention to one of our primary objectives, establishing a new route in Tininnertup Valley.
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British Kichatna Expedition 2022
Region: Alaska
Sub-Region: Kichatna
Date: 29/05/2022
MEF Reference: xxx
During the first Expedition to Alaska that Twid Turner made he spotted an incredible unclimbed line on the East Face of Kichatna Spire. On this Expedition in 2000 Twid and Stuart McAleese had an attempt at the line but backed off after 100m due to the loose rock and nature of the climbing. Twid vowed to return to climb this gem and make the First British Ascent of this majestic Spire of granite. With good friend and fellow IFMGA Guide Martk Thomas this is exactly what they achieved. Mike and Mark have dubbed their new line ‘Thunderstruck’ and offered a grade of VI A3+/A4 6c. The route, which the pair summitted on the 8th June, comprises 33 pitches, covering over 1,200m of climbing. `It was the climb of our lives!` Possibly the Best Big Wall Climb either of the team had. ever climbed.
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