Rock climbing in the remote Bektau mountains of Kazakhstan
Welcome to the 'UFO sector' of the remote Bektau mountains of Kazakhstan.
In the vast, central territory of Kazakhstan, where the landscape is dominated by flat and boundless steppe, the Bektau Mountains rise suddenly, as if from nowhere. The distant peaks appear volcanic due to their conical shape; however, they are actually enormous granite batholiths that stand out sharply against the horizon.
The mountainous complex consists of a group of five bare rock peaks, with the highest point, Bektau-Ata, reaching 1,214m. Some of these mountains are connected by a maze of ridges and canyons, which makes the whole area even more enchanting.
Routes have been climbed on only two of the five mountains in Bektau, but most of the routes - about a hundred - are concentrated on one mountain, in a large area known as the UFO sector, named for its resemblance to a large spaceship from above.
Bektau is a remote place, little known within the climbing community until recently. I discovered it while researching climbing spots in Central Asia, thanks to NewClimb guiding who were promoting a trad climbing camp at Bektau. From their photos, it already appeared to be an unusual, spectacular place that could inspire a great climbing story. I joined their spring camp in Bektau to do a photo shoot and get my hands on that rock.
Massimo Cappuccio details what it's like climbing in this remote region in the full article in Summit magazine.
READ THE FULL ARTICLE IN SUMMIT #116
BMC members can access free Summit articles for more in depth climbing coverage.
Related Content
Mountaineering Articles
High Performance Dietitian Rebecca Dent reveals the best, easy to prepare, easy to eat energy-boosting fuel for your winter outing.
Rock Destinations
Scottish fell runner and mountaineer Finlay Wild reveals the secret to a crowd-free ski tour in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Article
Niall Grimes (aka Auntie Gravity) takes care of your burning climbing, hiking and mountaineering questions in Summit's latest Auntie Gravity regular 'advice' column.
Mountaineering Destinations
Discover this isolated peak rising high above the valleys of Val d’Hérens, Val d’Anniviers and Zermatt’s Mattertal with sustained climbing and reliable in most conditions for much of the year. Author, photographer and Mountain Guide Ben Tibbetts shares the details.
Rock Climbing Articles
This summer, rock climber, crime writer and first female British Mountain Guide Gwen Moffat turned 100. Read our interview with her in the Autumn issue of Summit.
Rock Destinations
Filmmaker, photographer and writer Jessie Leong tackles Brigata Tridentina in the Dolomites, home to a dizzying amount of these iron pathways drilled in the mountains
Olympics Articles
GB Climbing's Toby Roberts talks training, mindset, hopes and fears for his first Olympic Games this summer.
Mountaineering Destinations
For a view better than from Mont Blanc itself, try this exquisitely triangular summit with a space-age mountain hut perched on its flanks for a ski mountaineering weekend this spring or early summer. Author, photographer and Mountain Guide Ben Tibbets shows you the way.