Sport climbing in Val Pennavaire, Italy

That description fits plenty of European climbing destinations, though the gelato narrows it down. Many climbers will immediately think of Finale Ligure, a classic and deservedly popular venue. But if you are searching for modern sport climbing, steep limestone, sustained routes and world-class tufas, then Val Pennavaire delivers on every front.

Also known as ‘Oltra Finale’ or ‘Other Finale’, simply because it is close to Finale itself, Pennavaire became a popular alternative when Finale it was too hot (Finale is right by the sea) or more likely when climbers got just a little jaded buy the old school nature, the harsh pockets and very humbling grading.

But for quite some time now Pennavaire has become a complete destination in its own right, and indeed it should. It's up there with the very best destinations in the world for single pitch sport climbing. Surprisingly it has stayed off the UK climbers’ radar, with Spain, Greece and France still dominating most hit lists. Spend a week here though tasting the area's secrets (and ice cream) you’ll be for sure to be back for more! I have now visited three times, and will be back for more. The route quality is generally excellent and there are loads of separate crags, all with their own style, never far from each other, but this gives for what feels like a really varied and interesting trip.

Why climb in Val Pennavaire?

Getting there

Val Pennavaire sits just a few hours from several major airports. Milan is around a 2.5 to 3 hour drive and offers plentiful cheap flights year-round. Nice, Genoa and Turin are even closer, making access remarkably straightforward. It is also perfectly feasible to drive from the UK through France in a long day, especially if you want to combine Pennavaire with other nearby Italian or French crags.

Surroundings

Not far from the sea, is the Mediterranean Sea - what’s not to like! The historic town of Albenga is beautiful and well worth exploring, but the Pennavaire valley itself is the real star. Long, winding and full of character, it is dotted with small hillside villages, ancient churches and terraced fields.

The river below spills into pools for a refreshing dip, and you are never far from the climbers bars, bustling with a truly great scene as well as fantastic food (and of course ice cream). This largest town of Cisano at the start of the valley has a truly excellent climbers shop (called CPR) stocked with everything, and plenty of cool bars to hang and take in a coffee shot.

Accommodation

There is a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets. Camping is available, but the many B&Bs and self-catering apartments in the surrounding quaint villages are ideal if you want to properly immerse yourself in the local scene. Climbing is a popular activity bringing revenue and activity into the area, and as a result the community is really well set up for climbers! Castelbianco is a particularly beautiful village if you can find availability. B&B 8a (great name!) comes highly recommended, run by friendly climbers who know the area inside out. The accommodation is excellent and perfectly located for accessing the crags. More information can be found at www.8acastelbianco.com.

Crag access

Approaches are refreshingly short, ranging from around two minutes to forty minutes, with most crags reached in ten to fifteen minutes. Parking is generally straightforward and walk-ins are never a slog, making it easy to climb day after day without wrecking your legs.

Crag orientation, conditions and climbing style

Both sides of the valley are lined with high-quality limestone, meaning there is almost always a choice of sun or shade. The grade range is huge, from low fives through to 9a+, with excellent quality throughout. There are some truly fantastic 6a and 6b, and world class 8’s, often just meters from each other, so mixed ability teams will have a blast. The harder routes are often steep, sometimes on tufas, sometimes on blocky orange walls. As with most limestone areas, seepage can occasionally be an issue after prolonged rain, but Pennavaire is generally quite weather resistant. Even after heavy rainfall in winter, it is usually possible to find plenty of dry routes.

Equipment

The bolting throughout the valley is excellent, funded in part by the guidebook sales and maintained by a psyched local climbing community who have done an excellent job. . Routes are single pitch and a 70 or 80 metre rope will cover 99% of the climbs. As always, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Guidebook and information

The brilliant Roc Pennavaire guide is essential. It contains all the knowledge and supports the ongoing bolting and development of the area. There is a 2025 edition. Visit www.rocpennavaire.it for planning and inspiration!

Standout crags

Choosing favourites is difficult, as the overall quality is so high. Terminal is often the first crag you notice driving into the valley and it delivers excellent climbing in the 6b to 6c range. Erboristeria sits opposite Terminal and is just as good.

Red-up is packed with tufa madness and hosts some of the very best 7b climbing anywhere. Euskal offers steeper, blockier orange walls and relentlessly pumpy climbing that will have you falling off moves you never expected to fail on.

When to go

Autumn is prime season, particularly October and November, with excellent conditions and stable weather. Spring is also a great option. Summer can be hot, but shade is always available and some crags sit high enough to catch a cooling breeze, making climbing possible even during warmer spells.