The past two weeks has been brimming with competition climbing events in Innsbruck at the IFSC World Championships which included a full Paraclimbing programme as well as Bouldering, Lead, Speed and a Combined final. The GB Climbing and Paraclimbing Teams were well prepared resulting in 13 strong performances from athletes in a number of categories, and as such left Innsbruck with five new medals, three of which were gold.
It's been an incredible two weeks for GB athletes, with a number of exceptional performances in the IFSC World Championships. We saw numerous climbers qualifying for semi-finals in both Lead and Bouldering, and a huge medal haul from the GB Paraclimbing Team.
In the Lead event, both Molly Thompson-Smith and Will Bosi made it through to semis, with Molly spectacularly coming 11th in her first competition since recovering from a horrific finger injury in December 2017. Will also pushed hard and high to place 13th alongside a number of top names in the competition climbing world.
Meanwhile, three athletes made it through to the Bouldering semi-finals, with Hannah Slaney and Billy Ridal both putting in commendable efforts to place in 11th and 20th, respectively. But Nathan Phillips was on fire, topping all four boulders in the semi-final to earn a place in the final amongst the world's best boulderers on the international stage – the first British male to make the finals of a Bouldering World Championships since Dave Barrans in 2009.
Nathan started perfectly, topping the first boulder with ease after taking a number of attempts to latch the tricky sideways 1-2-3 dyno. He then found things slightly tougher, and managed to earn one more zone out of the next three problems. After an amazing performance he finished in sixth place, his best result ever in an IFSC competition.
But the best results, and a major medal haul, was saved for the GB Paraclimbing Team. Everyone put in superb efforts to win an astounding five medals and three world titles. The first of the gold medals was awarded to Abbie Robinson in the B2 (visually impaired) category. She said: “I was so relieved to get my finals route done. It was well set and required a proper fight, especially as it got trickier toward the end.
“I actually thought the competitor before me had topped the route, so I had no idea what position I had placed in when I fell. When I realised I was World Champion, well, it was kind of surreal.”
The second world title was achieved by Hannah Baldwin in the women’s RP2 category: “When I looked at the route I knew it would be difficult. My category is merged, meaning although I only use one leg to climb, everybody else in the finals actually climbs with two. Robin (coach) warmed me up specifically for doing the two crux undercut moves in isolation and when it came to it I managed to keep pushing. At the last move I was so pumped I had nothing left and I just jumped for the last hold hoping for a plus point, in the hope it would be enough for a medal.
“Standing on top of the podium is the best feeling.”
Also in the RP2 category was Anita Aggarwal who took a well deserved bronze medal. Meanwhile, Mikey Cleverdon rounded of Saturdays action with a silver medal in the RP3 category.
Sunday saw AU2 superstar Matthew Phillips lining up for his finals and after a tense wait with athletes climbing high on the route before him, it came his turn to make an attempt. Climbing with supreme confidence and skill, Phillips glided with ease to top his route and take a third gold medal for the GB Paraclimbing team.
Matt said: “It’s an amazing feeling, topping on out on such a sustained route. It was truly incredible. The crowd and the atmosphere was wild – the British fans were off the scale. Seriously, they were so loud and they motivated me so much.
“Winning this title means everything to me, it’s the pinnacle of sporting achievements, to be a World Champion. I never thought I’d ever achieve something like this in my life ... and now, well, I can’t quite believe it. When I started climbing my aim was to try and win some national competitions the world championships wasn’t even in my mind and here I am.”
Special mention also goes to Jo Newton, who came heart-wrenchingly one point away from making the final, but still put in an awesome performance to earn fifth place.
Bouldering results:
Men
1st: Kai Harada (JPN)
20th: Billy Ridal (GBR)
Women
1st: Janja Garnbret (SLO)
11th: Hannah Slaney (GBR)
Paraclimbing results:
Men AL2
1st: Thierry Delarue (FRA)
6th: Martin Heald (GBR)
Men AU2
1st: Matt Phillips (GBR)
Men B1
1st: Koichiro Kobayashi (JPN)
7th: Jesse Dufton (GBR)
Men B2
1st: Justin Salas (USA)
6th: John Churcher (GBR)
Men RP1
1st: Alessio Cornamusini (ITA)
Men RP2
1st: Behnam Khalaji (IRI)
Men RP3
1st: Romain Pagnoux (FRA)
5th: Dave Bowes (GBR)
Women AL2
1st: Lucie Jarrige (FRA)
5th: Joanna Newton (GBR)
Women AU2
1st: Solenne Piret (FRA)
5th: Isabella Walsh (GBR)
Women B2
1st: Abbie Robinson (GBR)
Women RP2
1st: Hannah Baldwin (GBR)
Women RP3
1st: Aika Yoshida (JPN)
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