25 mistakes to avoid when Scottish winter climbing
From the serious to the seriously funny, Greg Boswell, Uisdean Hawthorn, Ross Hewitt and other experienced Scottish winter climbers offer their top advice - on what NOT to do.
Planning and logistics
Don’t…
- Book a trip in advance. The conditions will be terrible – guaranteed. - Greg Boswell
- Be put off by bad weather – it's always sh*t in Scotland. If you wait for the bluebird day you will never do any climbing. - Nik Goile
- Believe a route has a reputation rather than just trying it. - Uisdean Hawthorn
- Not check who did the first ascent and then get seriously sandbagged... mainly by Mick Fowler. - Uisdean Hawthorn
- Cut yourself short and pack anything less than a 60m rope. - Rebecca Coles
- Think your blunt ice screws will probably be sharp enough.
- Nik Goile
Getting on the route
Don't...
- Hang back to let another team break trail, only to realise that they’re going to ‘your’ route. -Viv Scott
- Not bother getting out the map, compass and altimeter on the way to the crag in a whiteout. Familiarity with Coire an Lochan once misled us to walk in during zero visibility without navigating – then we realised we had missed the crag. - Ross Hewitt
- Don't let a team that says "We are just getting into winter climbing" get on the route before you. - Nik Goile
- Climb even if the turf isn't properly frozen - climb something else or come back another day! -Viv Scott
- Put your crampons on before your harness. -Rob Partridge
- Put your gloves down - they WILL blow away. - Nik Goile
- Look up when you swing your axe in! Big clump of ice hit my lip and required stitches. Not sure what was more traumatic, the injury or spending five hours in a Glasgow A&E on a Saturday night! - Natalie Berry
While on the route
Don't...
- Get caught out fooling around with your axe on a stance to amuse your partner. It took immense skill and practice to find the sweet spot between helmet and goggles in the image below. Please remember this was achieved by a professional and should not be attempted without expert training. - Alex Palmer
- Pass a good belay (or opportunity for a wee – women) - Becky Coles
- Put nuts in your mouth in freezing weather. - Ben Alsford
- Forget that you’re climbing leashless mid-crux and watch gravity do its thing… - Viv Scott
- Be the first to have to bash through a cornice. - Jonathan Miles
- Underestimate wind speeds at the top of sheltered gullies. - Jonathan Miles
The walk-out
Don't...
- Think you can just walk off the top without needing to navigate – you’re not going to Stanage! - Becky Coles
- Confidently declare you “remember the way” as you set off back across the Cairngorm plateau in a whiteout. - Viv Scott
- Realise at this stage that you forgot your headtorch and googles. - Tom Coulthard
- Drop the key to the CIC hut. Especially if the reason you had the key on you in the first place was because you still accidentally had it from last time you hired the hut... - Anon
- Use that little clip in your pack top pocket for car keys when leaving your pack at the bottom of the route, on the presumption that the weather won't change, the easy gully down won't become an avalanche trap, and your partner won't show the early stages of hypothermia while walking the long way down that doesn't go past the packs at the bottom of the route. - Toby Archer
- On the subject of car keys, mine are somewhere in the Carneddau. If anybody finds them let me know please! - Steve Long
WATCH: Scottish winter climbing | Orion Face Direct (V, 5)
Related Content
Mountaineering
With the theme of this year's International Mountain Day, Wed 11 Dec, being “Mountain solutions for a sustainable future – innovation, adaptation and youth”, we share our 11 top tips for upping your winter game from the experts, speaking at three universities as part of the BMC Winter Lecture Series this year.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Scrambling in winter is a step up in every way: here are some tips from the pros for getting it right.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Here’s your heads-up to some of the most common winter walking mistakes and how to steer clear of them.
Mountaineering Destinations
Now is the prime time to plan your winter adventures. To help you explore the British mountains over winter, we have chosen six stunning winter ridges to guarantee a grand day out.
Hillwalking Destinations
Glen Coe's Aonach Eagach ridge is the most legendary Grade 2 scramble in Scotland. Do you have the skills to take it on?
Access Articles
Robbie Blackhall-Miles, the Vascular Plants Officer for Wales at the wild plant and fungi conservation charity Plant Life, sat down with Tom Carrick, the BMC’s Welsh Access Officer, to discuss the significance of the BMC Winter Monitoring System.
Mountaineering Destinations
We asked five experienced climbers for their top pick of Europe's alpine routes to get you inspired...
Hillwalking Skills
How to choose an ice axe for your next winter adventure
Hillwalking Skills
In this guide, we share tips to help you navigate your way back to safety in the event of a whiteout.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor Rob Johnson explains the essentials of choosing and using your first ice axe and crampons for winter mountaineering.
Hillwalking Skills
When should you use crampons? Our guide explains the 'when', 'where' and 'how' of deploying your spiky winter gear.
Hillwalking Destinations
Sarah Stirling lists five of the easiest Munros for beginner hikers to bag!
Mountaineering Destinations
Are you brave enough for our top five hardest black ski runs in Europe? Ski on - if you dare.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Mend Our Mountains: Make One Million has helped leave a lasting legacy on some of the highest peaks not only in Scotland, but in the whole of the British Isles.
Hillwalking Skills
Hill walking in winter covers a spectrum of difficulty and technicality, take a look at winter walking options, and what you’ll need to consider when choosing a route.
Hillwalking Gear
Points to consider if you're wondering ‘Do I need crampons for walking in winter?’
Hillwalking Skills
If you’ve enjoyed walking in summer and want to continue through the winter, here are ten things you need to know before you go.
Hill Walking Articles
'Called to the Mountains' on BMC TV is a meditative, beautiful black and white short film focussing on Kirsty Pallas, a 26-year-old outdoor instructor and mountain rescue member from Oban in Western Scotland. Sarah Stirling catches up with Kirsty to discover more about the film and, as Kirsty's maternal side of the family are Indian, diversity in the British outdoors.
Mountaineering
A bit of Scottish winter climbing history, plus a range of classic routes from Grade II to V, complete with big stunning photos and brief descriptions. You're welcome.
Indoor Climbing News
Works on the upgrade of the bouldering facilities at Edinburgh Leisure’s flagship climbing arena at Ratho will begin on Monday 3rd June following a major funding investment from sportscotland’s Sport Facilities Fund. There will be a steady schedule of works across the summer and autumn as the changes occur.
The Cwm Idwal Winter Monitoring system is now back live and with new equipment and software. Ready for you to head up the hills in the best wintery conditions.
Hillwalking Destinations
The BMC are urging people heading for Wales’ highest mountain in winter to be prepared.
Mountaineering Articles
The North Wales White guide is a free guide to inform and educate winter climbers in Snowdonia on how best to enjoy the area, while minimising damage to protected habitats and fragile environments.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Waiting for turf to freeze before climbing on it will probably increase the lifespan of both you and our rare arctic alpine plants. But how can you tell if a route is in condition?
Mountaineering News
Sarah Stirling tracks down mountaineer Paul Ramsden to find out his opinions on his latest award-winning route, sponsored climbers and the media spotlight.