A guide to ice axes for winter walking and climbing
How to choose an ice axe for your next winter adventure
The winter hills are demanding, but those who persevere can reap great rewards. Whether you’re traversing majestic snow-clad ridges or mastering the techniques of mixed climbing - to make the most of the winter playground you need the right tools for the job.
If you're new to winter walking or climbing, knowing what kind of axe you'll need can be a bit confusing. We've assembled a comprehensive guide to the different types of axes (also sometimes called tools) and their uses, plus technical info to help you better understand how to use your kit correctly. Ready to get stuck into the cold stuff?
Anatomy of an ice axe
One or two ice axes?
There are many different flavours of winter mountaineering, and the range of different types of ice tool (and whether you will need one or two) reflects this. Walkers will carry a single ice axe, but as the ground blurs between mountaineering and technical climbing, a pair of tools comprising an adze and a hammer becomes the norm.
Adze, hammer or both?
An adze is a cutting edge found on the head of the axe, positioned perpendicular to the handle, and is typically used for digging and cutting steps in snow. A hammer, whilst also found on the head of the axe, is typically used for bashing gear such as pegs into ice to protect winter climbing routes. For more technical climbs, a pair of axes with both is usually preferable. For winter walking it's unlikely you would need a hammer at all, therefore a single walking axe with an adze is generally more useful.
What kind of ice axe do I need?
For walking
An important function of a walking axe is to provide extra stability when walking on snow and ice, to help prevent slips and trips. Logic suggests a long shaft is best for this. This may be so, but the other main function of the axe is to provide a means of self arresting in the event of a slip or slide. A shorter shaft makes this easier, so a compromise has to be made. Depending on their height, most people opt for a walking axe 55-65cm in length. The ideal pick shape is gently curved for a smooth self arrest. Make sure that the axe fits comfortably in the hand when held with the pick facing backwards. A good sized adze will help when chopping bollards, or digging ledges and bucket seats.
For Mountaineering
Expanding your horizons onto easy climbing ground means an upgrade in your axe. A more durable forged pick will stand up better to the rigors of climbing, where rock and turf may be encountered. A more steeply curved pick with more teeth will dig deeper into the ice when pulled on. Whilst better for climbing, this makes self arrest quite tricky so take care. For climbing, a good, grippy shaft and simple leash will be useful additions. A slight reduction in length compared to a walking axe will make the axe easier to wield when climbing, without reducing its performance as a walking stick too much.
For technical climbing
As the ground steepens further, a pair of tools becomes necessary. An axe with an adze is paired with a hammer for placing beaks, warthogs and pegs. Reverse curve or “banana” picks come into their own for climbing steep ice and mixed ground, but self arresting becomes even more difficult. Radically curved shafts and hand rests combined with spring leashes have revolutionised climbing at the top end of the sport, and the benefits hold true even on most middle grades routes around IV and V. Many modern tools are modular, meaning picks and sometimes adzes and hammers can be replaced. Head weights can be fitted to some tools to improve penetration in hard alpine ice.
Ice axe standards and ratings
The CEN standard for ice tools is EN13089, with the UIAA 152 safety label being broadly similar with a few additional requirements. The CEN standard has two categories, based on the strength of the shaft and pick. The category should be clearly marked on the shaft of the tool.
Ratings
Modern axes are rated as either 'Type 1' or 'Type 2' (previously 'T' or 'B' rated). These categories are based on strength and torque testing on the shaft and pick to simulate use in different scenarios, eg. building a T-Slot anchor or executing a Stein pull manoeuvre. Your choice of either a Type 1 or 2 axe should reflect its intended activities, and whilst a technical Type 2 climbing axe might be ok (albeit uncomfortable) to use in a hillwalking scenario, a Type 1 axe would not be sufficient for hard mixed climbing and could be dangerous.
Type 1: These are typically walking or mountaineering axes with the minimum necessary strengths for ice axe belaying. This type of tool is suitable for glacier travel, ski mountaineering and winter walking where reduced weight is important.
Type 2: Technical tools with a higher strength pick and shaft, important for technical ice and mixed climbing involving torqueing picks.
These ratings apply separately to the shaft and pick of the axe, and whilst this is generally relevant to axes intended for technical climbing, eg. pure water ice vs. mixed alpine climbing, it's worth checking the ratings of both parts.
Taking care of your tools
Winter is a harsh environment - tools can and will break. If your tools are modular, carry a spare pick as these are most at risk of damage or failure. It is important to check critical areas at the start of the winter season. If you are particularly active, you may want to check more regularly, because a tool breaking can be extremely serious midway through a bold winter climb.
Thin fatigue cracks can start to form on picks, initiating from a tooth, and may need a magnifying glass to spot. Check for impact damage to the shaft, especially near the join with the head of the tool. Cracks may grow which may result in the shaft failing when loaded. Sharp picks make a big difference on ice, less so on mixed routes. Use a medium flat file and don’t use power tools, which will ruin the heat treatment.
And finally...
As with any tool, know how to use it. Learn how to self arrest with your axe. Always pick somewhere safe to practice, and don’t forget to learn the other useful skills such as building bollards and belaying off of your axes.
Do your research, plan ahead, and if in doubt: consider employing the skills of a qualified guide or taking part in a course to help you get to grips with winter skills and equipment before you go it alone.
WATCH: Winter skills | how to choose an ice axe
Related Content
Access Articles
This unassuming, bright, green or red moss with lush, almost tentacle-like fronds is hiding five well-kept secrets.
Hill Walking Articles
For many hill walkers, the call of the wild is a lifelong passion. However, the demands placed on our bodies by these activities require thoughtful care, especially as we age.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC volunteers have been super busy this summer, with the latest Get Stuck In project seeing 12 of them create a 50m length of stepping stone path to make a more sustainable way through the bog below Tryfan, Eryri (Snowdonia), North Wales.
Hill Walking News
Hill walking offers a wonderful way to connect with nature, challenge your body, and clear your mind. However, the physical demands of walking up and down steep terrain mean that optimal nutrition is essential to ensure you stay energised, strong, and focused. Whether you're setting off on a gentle stroll or tackling a more challenging route, here are the top nutrients you need to consider, along with some nutritious snack ideas to keep you fuelled on your adventure.
Hill Walking News
This August, 14 BMC volunteers spent two days on The Band in Langdale, Lake District, making repairs to a 100m stretch of footpath in the latest Get Stuck In event, funded by the Mend Our Mountains campaign from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust.
Indoor Climbing Skills
All the tips on how to move from indoor climbing to outdoor climbing
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Scrambling in winter is a step up in every way: here are some tips from the pros for getting it right.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Here’s your heads-up to some of the most common winter walking mistakes and how to steer clear of them.
Mountaineering Destinations
Now is the prime time to plan your winter adventures. To help you explore the British mountains over winter, we have chosen six stunning winter ridges to guarantee a grand day out.
Rock Climbing Skills
Here's what you need to think about when moving together for scrambling and climbing
Rock Climbing Articles
The BMC Incident and Near Miss reporting system helps to promote reflection and effect behavioural change to reduce the potential for future incidents.
Access Articles
Robbie Blackhall-Miles, the Vascular Plants Officer for Wales at the wild plant and fungi conservation charity Plant Life, sat down with Tom Carrick, the BMC’s Welsh Access Officer, to discuss the significance of the BMC Winter Monitoring System.
Hill Walking Articles
Chris Townsend's top tips on getting the most out of a long-distance adventure, plus three week-long route ideas for beginners, offering a mix of nature, history, solitude and challenge.
Rock Climbing Skills
Here's a run down of the essentials of using micro gear when climbing
Hill Walking Articles
Snowdonia-based fell running guides Sarah and Ian Ridgway share their top 10 tips for beginner fell runners.
Mountaineering Destinations
We asked five experienced climbers for their top pick of Europe's alpine routes to get you inspired...
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Hillwalking Skills
In this guide, we share tips to help you navigate your way back to safety in the event of a whiteout.
Rock Destinations
Have you ticked this list? Five British IFMGA mountain guides pick their absolute favourite long rock routes in the Italian Dolomites, the Aravis range close to Chamonix, and from the ‘Grats’ near Andermatt to the Monts Rouges du Triolet; there’s something for everyone to go at from 5c to 7a. If in any doubt of your skills and experience, you know the score: hire a guide.
Mountaineering Destinations
Five of Chamonix's leading ski guides tell us their favourite beginner ski tours in and around Chamonix.
Rock Climbing Skills
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor Rob Johnson explains the essentials of choosing and using your first ice axe and crampons for winter mountaineering.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Mountaineering Destinations
This route of great tradition and history has foiled many a keen adventurer, so what does it take to unlock the aura of mystery surrounding Tower Ridge? Fortunately we have film maker and mountaineer Steve Ashworth on hand to explain it all for us.
Hill Walking Articles
The best way to prepare yourself for the hills is to get out in the hills. But what if you can only get out once a month? Running guide Sarah Ridgway reveals her secrets to staying fast.
Hillwalking Skills
When should you use crampons? Our guide explains the 'when', 'where' and 'how' of deploying your spiky winter gear.
Mountaineering Destinations
Here are some facts, figures and background information on the world's highest mountain.
Mountaineering Destinations
Are you brave enough for our top five hardest black ski runs in Europe? Ski on - if you dare.
Hill Walking Articles
Having a duvet day or a quiet night in? We've got you covered. There's nothing better than a day in the hills - but we think planning a day in the hills comes in pretty close second. If you're looking for inspiration for your next on-foot adventure, check out our lineup of ten of the best mountaineering, hiking and hillwalking films from the BMC TV YouTube channel.
Mountaineering Learn Gear
Do you carry a first aid kit in the mountains? We take a look at the essentials for any mountaineering first aid kit and how to use them.
Mountaineering Destinations
Mountains have always meant more to humanity than just lumps of rock. We take a look at five summits with mysterious, magical or mythological significance.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Hill Walking Articles
Each year there are reports of people who have been attacked, or even trampled to death, by cows whilst out walking or approaching crags. BMC member Simon Coldrick was badly injured after a cow attacked him as he led a fell race on the edge of Sheffield.
Mountaineering Destinations
If you’re looking for an unforgettable, high altitude trekking holiday this year we’ve got some great ideas for you here in Nepal, Bhutan, Pakistan and India from climbing mountaineering expedition operator Jagged Globe.
Hillwalking Skills
Hill walking in winter covers a spectrum of difficulty and technicality, take a look at winter walking options, and what you’ll need to consider when choosing a route.
Hillwalking Qualification Training
Whether you want a career in the outdoors, or to improve your own personal skills, there are a number of training providers offering courses and instruction.
Hillwalking Gear
Points to consider if you're wondering ‘Do I need crampons for walking in winter?’
Hillwalking Skills
If you’ve enjoyed walking in summer and want to continue through the winter, here are ten things you need to know before you go.
Hillwalking Skills
This article outlines a few navigation techniques you can practise to stack the odds in your favour in poor visibility and severe weather.
Rock Climbing
An overview of the qualifications administered by Mountain Training for people wanting to lead groups in the hills and mountains.