A guide to ice axes for winter walking and climbing
How to choose an ice axe for your next winter adventure
The winter hills are demanding, but those who persevere can reap great rewards. Whether you’re traversing majestic snow-clad ridges or mastering the techniques of mixed climbing - to make the most of the winter playground you need the right tools for the job.
If you're new to winter walking or climbing, knowing what kind of axe you'll need can be a bit confusing. We've assembled a comprehensive guide to the different types of axes (also sometimes called tools) and their uses, plus technical info to help you better understand how to use your kit correctly. Ready to get stuck into the cold stuff?
Anatomy of an ice axe
One or two ice axes?
There are many different flavours of winter mountaineering, and the range of different types of ice tool (and whether you will need one or two) reflects this. Walkers will carry a single ice axe, but as the ground blurs between mountaineering and technical climbing, a pair of tools comprising an adze and a hammer becomes the norm.
Adze, hammer or both?
An adze is a cutting edge found on the head of the axe, positioned perpendicular to the handle, and is typically used for digging and cutting steps in snow. A hammer, whilst also found on the head of the axe, is typically used for bashing gear such as pegs into ice to protect winter climbing routes. For more technical climbs, a pair of axes with both is usually preferable. For winter walking it's unlikely you would need a hammer at all, therefore a single walking axe with an adze is generally more useful.
What kind of ice axe do I need?
For walking
An important function of a walking axe is to provide extra stability when walking on snow and ice, to help prevent slips and trips. Logic suggests a long shaft is best for this. This may be so, but the other main function of the axe is to provide a means of self arresting in the event of a slip or slide. A shorter shaft makes this easier, so a compromise has to be made. Depending on their height, most people opt for a walking axe 55-65cm in length. The ideal pick shape is gently curved for a smooth self arrest. Make sure that the axe fits comfortably in the hand when held with the pick facing backwards. A good sized adze will help when chopping bollards, or digging ledges and bucket seats.
For Mountaineering
Expanding your horizons onto easy climbing ground means an upgrade in your axe. A more durable forged pick will stand up better to the rigors of climbing, where rock and turf may be encountered. A more steeply curved pick with more teeth will dig deeper into the ice when pulled on. Whilst better for climbing, this makes self arrest quite tricky so take care. For climbing, a good, grippy shaft and simple leash will be useful additions. A slight reduction in length compared to a walking axe will make the axe easier to wield when climbing, without reducing its performance as a walking stick too much.
For technical climbing
As the ground steepens further, a pair of tools becomes necessary. An axe with an adze is paired with a hammer for placing beaks, warthogs and pegs. Reverse curve or “banana” picks come into their own for climbing steep ice and mixed ground, but self arresting becomes even more difficult. Radically curved shafts and hand rests combined with spring leashes have revolutionised climbing at the top end of the sport, and the benefits hold true even on most middle grades routes around IV and V. Many modern tools are modular, meaning picks and sometimes adzes and hammers can be replaced. Head weights can be fitted to some tools to improve penetration in hard alpine ice.
Ice axe standards and ratings
The CEN standard for ice tools is EN13089, with the UIAA 152 safety label being broadly similar with a few additional requirements. The CEN standard has two categories, based on the strength of the shaft and pick. The category should be clearly marked on the shaft of the tool.
Ratings
Modern axes are rated as either 'Type 1' or 'Type 2' (previously 'T' or 'B' rated). These categories are based on strength and torque testing on the shaft and pick to simulate use in different scenarios, eg. building a T-Slot anchor or executing a Stein pull manoeuvre. Your choice of either a Type 1 or 2 axe should reflect its intended activities, and whilst a technical Type 2 climbing axe might be ok (albeit uncomfortable) to use in a hillwalking scenario, a Type 1 axe would not be sufficient for hard mixed climbing and could be dangerous.
Type 1: These are typically walking or mountaineering axes with the minimum necessary strengths for ice axe belaying. This type of tool is suitable for glacier travel, ski mountaineering and winter walking where reduced weight is important.
Type 2: Technical tools with a higher strength pick and shaft, important for technical ice and mixed climbing involving torqueing picks.
These ratings apply separately to the shaft and pick of the axe, and whilst this is generally relevant to axes intended for technical climbing, eg. pure water ice vs. mixed alpine climbing, it's worth checking the ratings of both parts.
Taking care of your tools
Winter is a harsh environment - tools can and will break. If your tools are modular, carry a spare pick as these are most at risk of damage or failure. It is important to check critical areas at the start of the winter season. If you are particularly active, you may want to check more regularly, because a tool breaking can be extremely serious midway through a bold winter climb.
Thin fatigue cracks can start to form on picks, initiating from a tooth, and may need a magnifying glass to spot. Check for impact damage to the shaft, especially near the join with the head of the tool. Cracks may grow which may result in the shaft failing when loaded. Sharp picks make a big difference on ice, less so on mixed routes. Use a medium flat file and don’t use power tools, which will ruin the heat treatment.
And finally...
As with any tool, know how to use it. Learn how to self arrest with your axe. Always pick somewhere safe to practice, and don’t forget to learn the other useful skills such as building bollards and belaying off of your axes.
Do your research, plan ahead, and if in doubt: consider employing the skills of a qualified guide or taking part in a course to help you get to grips with winter skills and equipment before you go it alone.
WATCH: Winter skills | how to choose an ice axe
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