Abseiling: do you know the risks?
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
The BMC’s Equipment Failure Investigations include abseil ropes cut through, failed anchors, detached karabiners, and abseil devices that ‘mysteriously’ did not control the speed of descent.
Add to this clothing and long hair tangled in the abseil device; trips, flips and swings; the end of a rope being reached unexpectedly; plus the odd jammed rope, sharp edge and falling rock or piece of a equipment, and you have a much clearer understanding of the hazards of abseiling and why it claims lives. As with all methods of descending abseiling is dangerous; but it is particularly unforgiving of any mistakes or failures.
For most experienced climbers abseiling is an activity to be avoided unless it is the only way of getting off a climb or down a mountain - for the unwary it can be a fast introduction to discover the quickest way to reach the ground.
When to abseil
Abseiling involves descending rope(s) using a friction device (e.g. belay device) attached to your harness. It’s used to tackle terrain that would be too dangerous or time-consuming to descend on foot. For example; escaping a route beyond your ability, descending from a pinnacle, or approaching the base of a sea cliff.
Practice
If you have never abseiled before start at ground level down a shallow slope, before doing it for real. Then move on to a small cliff (not down a popular route on a sunny day!)
Anchors
Solid anchors cannot be over emphasised and should be totally reliable for a training abseil. If retreating or descending make sure the anchors are the best available and whenever possible use a second anchor point as a back-up. If the ropes are to be retrieved from below the anchors must be set up to allow the ropes to run through smoothly. Always carry tape or cord for constructing or extending abseils anchors.
Joining two ropes
For a long abseil where it is necessary to join two ropes a reliable knot must be used. Probable the most reliable is the double fisherman’s knot, but this can become jammed after an abseil. An alternative is an overhand knot but make sure the ends of the knot are long (you only want it to undo easily after you have completed the abseil).
Abseil devices
Different belay plates and abseil devices provide different levels of friction, and new and thin ropes provide less resistance than thick or older ropes: make sure you know what to expect from the combination you use. In particular take care when using a figure of eight to abseil because it can accidentally mis-align itself across the karabiner gate. If it becomes even lightly loaded when mis-aligned it can lever open and detach itself from a properly screwed up karabiner with dire consequences. At least one fatality and a number of serious injuries have resulted from this.
Making it safer
When abseiling you can easily slip and let go of the rope with drastic consequences, so it’s a very good idea to use an autobloc as a back up to hold the control rope if you let go.
The most common autobloc is a French prusik, made using a prusik loop. It’s so effective and simple to tie that there’s no need to travel without it. To make a French prusik wrap the prusik loop around the control rope four or five times. Clip both ends with a karabiner and attach that to the leg loop of your dominant hand. If you have too many turns it can be very hard to release it, so get to know how many you need. When held in your hand the knot is loose allowing the rope to slide freely, but if released it grips the rope and prevents further progress.
Remember that the prusik is not fail-safe, it could rub against something and release, so always try to keep hold of the control rope.
Rockfall and edges
When setting up the abseil avoid positions with loose rock or sharp edges in the area where the rope will run. If it is unavoidable to abseil down loose rock, with care, it can be removed to help avoid in being accidentally pulled down when the rope is retrieved. A loaded rope stretched over a sharp edge can easily be cut through, so avoid doing this if at all possible and if in any doubt use some form of rope protector.
The Abseil
Secure yourself and the ’top’ of the abseil ropes to the anchors being used for the descent. If it will not be possible to see the ‘bottom’ ends of the abseil rope tie a knot in them before carefully throwing the rope down the cliff making sure anyone below is aware you are abseiling. Position the rope to avoid any sharp edges. If the ropes are to be retrieved from below position the knot so it will not catch in a constriction as you pull it from below. Always consider using a prussik knot or other back-up system on the abseil rope in case you need to sort out a tangle, need to rest, and to guard against losing control.
Before committing all your weight to the abseil ensure that your belay device and screw-gate are properly aligned. Abseil smoothly and directly down the ‘fall line’ and avoid bounces or pendulums that may draw the rope across an edge. Once at the next abseil position (or the base if on a sea cliff) secure yourself and the ‘bottom’ of the ropes to a new anchor point. It is helpful for the last person to abseil with a karabiner attached to whichever rope will be pulled, this will help separate the ropes prior to pulling them down. If it is a multi abseil descent the last person, having satisfied themselves that the main anchor is reliable, can remove the back-up anchor for use lower down.
Pulling through
Once the first climber has completed the abseil they should do a short test pull to ensure the rope will run properly. If it does not then the climber at the anchors should be able to identify the problem and rectify it. Once everyone is down carefully pull the correct rope. When pulling the ropes if possible take shelter from any rocks that might accidentally be dislodged.
Jammed rope
Despite precautions sometimes the rope will jam. If it does then try to flick it free or change the pulling angle. If after repeated attempts to free the rope it still will not move then someone will need to go back up and sort out the problem. If you still have both ends of the rope you will be able to either prussik up both ropes or climb up (tying into the rope at intervals to protect yourself). Do not prussik on a single rope as it could pull free at any moment with fatal consequences. If the rope has only partly pulled through leaving you with just one end it is better to climb back up with the rope you have. If there is no way you can climb back up you may have to cut the rope and continue as best you can.
Summary
- Back up your anchors
- Keep the rope clear of loose rock and sharp edges
- Take precautions to avoid losing control or abseiling off the ends of the rope
- Abseil smoothly
- Do a test pull after the first climber completes the abseil
- Keep self and ropes attached to anchor points
In addition to all the above those supervising abseils have a duty to consider potential risks inherent in the abseil and to take whatever measures are practicable to control those risks.
Related Content
Rock Destinations
Dreaming of big numbers this year? We reveal six sizzling holiday rock destinations that will send your grade through the roof. Whether your sight is on 6b or you're aching for 8a, here are Steve McClure's top picks.
Performance News
The IFSC Paraclimbing European Championships in Villars, Switzerland, this weekend saw 13 GB Climbing athletes clip into the Lead wall, delivering strong performances and personal bests across the board.
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
Indoor Climbing Skills
All the tips on how to move from indoor climbing to outdoor climbing
Rock Climbing Skills
Here's what you need to think about when moving together for scrambling and climbing
Rock Climbing Skills
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
Rock Climbing Articles
The BMC Incident and Near Miss reporting system helps to promote reflection and effect behavioural change to reduce the potential for future incidents.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Hill Walking Articles
Chris Townsend's top tips on getting the most out of a long-distance adventure, plus three week-long route ideas for beginners, offering a mix of nature, history, solitude and challenge.
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Rock Climbing Skills
Here's a run down of the essentials of using micro gear when climbing
Hill Walking Articles
Snowdonia-based fell running guides Sarah and Ian Ridgway share their top 10 tips for beginner fell runners.
Rock Climbing Skills
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Hillwalking Skills
How to choose an ice axe for your next winter adventure
Hillwalking Skills
In this guide, we share tips to help you navigate your way back to safety in the event of a whiteout.
Access Articles
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Rock Climbing Skills
A look at the essential skill of abseiling. What do you need to know to get down in one piece?
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Winter Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor Rob Johnson explains the essentials of choosing and using your first ice axe and crampons for winter mountaineering.
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Hillwalking Skills
The know-how, top tips and gear you'll need for scrambling safely.
Rock Climbing Gear
How often do you check your trad gear for damage or wear and tear? Here's the 'how' and 'why' of keeping your cams in check.
Rock Climbing Skills
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Hill Walking Articles
The best way to prepare yourself for the hills is to get out in the hills. But what if you can only get out once a month? Running guide Sarah Ridgway reveals her secrets to staying fast.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Trad climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer. Trad climbing is the most popular style of climbing on British crags.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Hill Walking Articles
Having a duvet day or a quiet night in? We've got you covered. There's nothing better than a day in the hills - but we think planning a day in the hills comes in pretty close second. If you're looking for inspiration for your next on-foot adventure, check out our lineup of ten of the best mountaineering, hiking and hillwalking films from the BMC TV YouTube channel.
Rock Climbing Gear
If you’ve never climbed before or have only climbed indoors, the equipment used for tackling real rock can seem mysterious, exciting and expensive. We've put together a list of the essentials...
Rock Climbing Learn
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Indoor Climbing News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce that the 2024 British Boulder Championships will be hosted at Last Sun Dance in Leeds.
Hillwalking Qualification Training
Whether you want a career in the outdoors, or to improve your own personal skills, there are a number of training providers offering courses and instruction.
Hillwalking Gear
Points to consider if you're wondering ‘Do I need crampons for walking in winter?’
Hillwalking Skills
If you’ve enjoyed walking in summer and want to continue through the winter, here are ten things you need to know before you go.
Hillwalking Skills
This article outlines a few navigation techniques you can practise to stack the odds in your favour in poor visibility and severe weather.
Rock Climbing
An overview of the qualifications administered by Mountain Training for people wanting to lead groups in the hills and mountains.
Olympics News
Four sport climbers will make their Olympic Games debuts this summer for Team GB as the British Olympic Association (BOA) name the team that will compete at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Hillwalking Qualification Training
If you’d like to guide people up hills in winter conditions the Winter Mountain Leader qualification could be for you.
Article
Take a look at the Lowland Leader scheme, so you can decide whether it’s the right qualification for you.
Hillwalking Qualification Training
Find out more about the Camping Leader qualification, so you can decide whether it’s right for you.
Hillwalking Qualification Training
Fancy a life leading treks abroad? The International Mountain Leader may be the qualification for you
Hillwalking Qualification Training
Take a look at the Hill & Moorland Leader qualification, so you can decide whether it’s right for you.
Hillwalking Skills
Take a look at the Mountain Leader qualification so you can decide whether it’s the right qualification for you.
Rock Climbing
A look at when you do, and don't, need hillwalking qualifications, and what training is available for professionals and individuals wanting to improve their skills.
Rock Climbing
Here's James McHaffie's top tips for climbing your first E1
Rock Climbing
Dinorwig slate quarries gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018
Rock Climbing
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...