Climbing lingo: how to talk the talk
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
It can be easy to be bamboozled by the seemingly impenetrable climbing-babble you sometimes hear at the crag or climbing wall. Like many activities, climbing has a language of its own with terms to describe sub-genres of the sport, body movements, ways of holding on to the rock and styles of ascent. So, what does it all mean?
Types of climbing
Rock climbing is a diverse and multi-faceted sport, with variations all involving climbing from the bottom to the top of a piece of rock without falling off or weighting the rope for an ascent to be considered successful.
Traditional (trad) climbing
Climbing routes outside where the lead climber places protection such as hexes, cams and nuts as they go up. Often shortened to Trad climbing.
Sport climbing
Climbing on routes which use bolts.
Bouldering
Climbing short, challenging problems without a rope on boulders that are low enough to fall from safely (assuming you have a pad and a good spotter, that is.)
Highball bouldering
Boulder problems that take the climbing higher than normal bouldering height and into the fear zone.
Soloing
To climb without a rope. A risky business.
Deep water soloing
Soloing above deep water, often referred to as DWS. Seen as a safe, fun activity, but care is needed.
Style of ascent
How you get from the bottom to the top of a route is often considered as important as getting to the top at all.
On Sight
To climb a route clean first time from bottom to top in one continual flow, placing your own equipment or clipping the bolts with no falls and no resting on the rope.
Flash
Climbing a route clean with prior knowledge and/or equipment already in place.
Ground up
To climb a route, starting at the bottom, and working your way up. You might take some falls, return to the bottom and start again.
Redpoint
To climb a route, usually a sport route, with no rests, after having spent some time on it rehearsing the moves.
Headpoint
Leading a climb, usually a dangerous one, after rehearsing the moves beforehand on a top-rope.
Beta
This is what other climbers give you when imparting information about a route such as any trick moves or equipment placements.
Equipment
Protection
The hardware that a rope is clipped into to make a climb safe. There is natural protection in the form of nuts and cams; alternatively, bolts. Also known as gear.
Rack
A climber’s personal collection of protection.
In situ
Literally, in place. Usually refers to protection from ascent to ascent that is left in a climb, such as a peg.
Quickdraw
Two Karabiners linked together by a length of sown cord. Used to clip the rope to protection.
Extender
Another word for a quickdraw.
RP
A very small, brass, climbing nut.
Hold types
A wide range of terms are used to describe what a particular hold looks like, or how it is best used. Most often heard when climbers are recounting the moves on a recent route, or giving advice to others about how to complete a difficult section.
Bucket
A huge hold (often referred to as a jug), which the whole hand can grasp.
Crimp
A small edge that is held with fingertips, with the fingers bent to bring the hand closer to the rock. Larger holds can be crimped by using the same hand shape.
Gaston
Imagine opening a pair of lift doors with your hands; this is the way to place your hands on the climbing holds when doing a gaston. Named after the famous French mountain guide and author Gaston Rebuffat.
Guppy
The climber's hand is turned sideways and grips a hold by cupping it with the little-finger side of the hand.
Hand jam
Inserting the hand into a crack and squeezing it so that it grips.
Pinch
A hold that is squeezed between the thumb and fingers for grip.
Undercut
A downward-facing hold that is pulled upwards by the climber. Needs good body tension and strong biceps.
Moves
The body shapes assumed and movements enacted when ascending a route have descriptive names, used when describing a route to other climbers.
Bridging
Applying equal pressure with the feet and hands in opposite directions on opposing pieces of the rock face.
Deadpoint
A semi-dynamic move where the climber hits the hold she is moving to at the end of her arc of movement.
Dyno
A climbing move in which the climber jumps or moves dynamically from one hold to another.
Egyptian
A move used on steep rock to take the weight off your arms. The feet are placed on two separate footholds and one leg is rotated so the knee is pointing towards the other leg.
Flag
Dangling or sticking a leg out to improve balance when climbing.
Heel hook
Using the heel to grip and pull the body towards the rock.
Layback
Climbing up by pushing the feet away from the body and pulling the hands towards the body.
Mantelshelf
A climbing move whose name originated from how one would get stood on a mantelpiece. How you get out of a swimming pool without using the steps.
Rock-over
To gain height by placing the foot on a high hold and rocking the centre of gravity onto it.
Experiential terms
There is also a rich language used to describe the experience of climbing rock.
Bomber
Bombproof. Used when referring to equipment or holds. Means very good.
Chimney
A feature of the rock; a crack wide enough to fit your whole body in to.
Choss
Soil, dirt, rubble, stones, vegetation; in fact, anything other than good, clean stable rock.
Crux
The most difficult move on a climb or the hardest part of the route
Flapper
A piece of skin that hangs off your finger. Usually sustained on sharp rock or rough holds.
Gardening
Cleaning vegetation off a climb.
Gripped
Consumed with fear when on a climb.
Hot aches
An exquisite pain felt in the hands when blood returns to chilled fingers. Usually experienced in ice climbing, winter bouldering or when throwing snowballs with no gloves on.
Off-width
A crack that is not the size of any particular body part. Usually wider than a fist and smaller than a body.
Pumped
When the muscles fill with lactic acid and become bloated with blood resulting in a worrying loss of strength. Often combined with being gripped.
Run out
The distance the climber is above their last protection. A route can be described as run out if there are large gaps between the gear placements.
Sandbag
A route or boulder problem that is notoriously tougher than the advertised grade/information given.
Wad
A cool cat. A term used to describe a good climber (see previous image).
WATCH: Introduction to sport climbing gear
Related Content
Rock Destinations
Dreaming of big numbers this year? We reveal six sizzling holiday rock destinations that will send your grade through the roof. Whether your sight is on 6b or you're aching for 8a, here are Steve McClure's top picks.
Rock Climbing
A peregrine survey by boat with high-quality photography organised by local BMC Access Reps Iain Peters and James Mann has helped to identify peregrine nesting sites so that a blanket ban on climbing at the Cornish climbing site of Carn Cowla can be lifted. A temporary ban had been put in place by the National Trust covering the cliffs between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, including major route locations up to and beyond the America Buttress. The ban has now been lifted so all sections are open, with only crag- and area-specific restrictions in place when necessary.
Performance News
The IFSC Paraclimbing European Championships in Villars, Switzerland, this weekend saw 13 GB Climbing athletes clip into the Lead wall, delivering strong performances and personal bests across the board.
Get Climbing
Climbing walls are a great way to start climbing and to stay fit. We’ve made it easy for you to discover local climbing wall in your area. Take a look at our BMC Climbing Wall Finder.
Rock Climbing
A climbers’ meeting this week expressed their opposition to the continued ban on climbing at Symonds Yat, Herefordshire, imposed by Forestry England.
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
Indoor Climbing Articles
If anyone is out there and is looking to start competitions, where would they look?
Get Climbing
Fancy giving climbing a go but don't know where to start? Follow these five easy steps to kick off a lifetime of vertical adventures.
Indoor Climbing Skills
All the tips on how to move from indoor climbing to outdoor climbing
Get Climbing
Indoor Climbing Skills
Here are the essentials to know about climbing indoors
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Rock Climbing Skills
It’s Britain, it’s summer, and it’s wet. Why am I not surprised? But all is not lost! There are ways to circumvent the weather when you want to go climbing...
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Rock Climbing Skills
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Hillwalking Skills
Are you a hill walker wanting to tackle steeper terrain, but nervous about heights? Don’t panic – there are steps you can take to fight the fear.
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Access Articles
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Rock Destinations
Climbers have a responsibility to understand the relevant access and conservation issues associated with the places we climb. Here are a few pointers to help you enjoy these areas sustainably.
Rock Climbing Skills
A look at the essential skill of abseiling. What do you need to know to get down in one piece?
Rock Climbing Skills
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Hill Walking Articles
The health and well being benefits of physical activity are numerous. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, there are many mental health and social perks to hillwalking and climbing too.
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Rock Climbing Gear
How often do you check your trad gear for damage or wear and tear? Here's the 'how' and 'why' of keeping your cams in check.
Rock Climbing Articles
In this booklet for managers and landowners, the aim has been to address a range of common questions and concerns about rock climbing in disused quarries. Covering all aspects of access and liability, through a selection of case studies, it showcases the benefits not just for climbers, but for the wider public and land managers themselves. Benefits which can be realised with assistance from climbers and the BMC, through the repurposing of disused quarries as rock climbing destinations.
Rock Climbing Skills
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Trad climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer. Trad climbing is the most popular style of climbing on British crags.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Rock Climbing Gear
If you’ve never climbed before or have only climbed indoors, the equipment used for tackling real rock can seem mysterious, exciting and expensive. We've put together a list of the essentials...
Get Climbing
Here's all you need to know about starting indoor bouldering
Indoor Climbing Gear
So you’ve caught the bug, you’re going at least once a week (often more!) and your friends keep looking at you weirdly when they catch you moving your arms around while staring into space, or just staring at your fingertips. It’s inevitable, because, let’s face it, climbing is the best! If you’re really getting into climbing, you’ll likely want to start getting your own gear that will fit you properly and perform better – such as rental shoes. In fact, shoes are the first thing you should get!
Rock Climbing Learn
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Indoor Climbing News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce that the 2024 British Boulder Championships will be hosted at Last Sun Dance in Leeds.
Olympics News
Four sport climbers will make their Olympic Games debuts this summer for Team GB as the British Olympic Association (BOA) name the team that will compete at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Rock Climbing
Dinorwig slate quarries gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Rock Climbing
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...
Rock Climbing Skills
Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) celebrates the historic inclusion of Paraclimbing in the LA28 Paralympic Sport Program. This landmark decision represents a significant milestone for the sport, reflecting its growing popularity globally.
Olympics News
The culmination of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Budapest saw GB Climbing athletes Erin McNeice, Hamish McArthur, and Molly Thompson-Smith qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics Games.
Performance News
The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is reaching its finale at the Ludovika Campus in Budapest this week. A total of 48 top climbers from around the globe will vie for their last chance to secure a spot in the Boulder & Lead event for Paris 2024.
Performance
After six remarkable years with the GB Climbing Team, Richard Slocock has announced his retirement from international competition. With an impressive tally of three gold, two silver, and three bronze medals, the 44-year-old’s contributions to the GB Climbing team have been extraordinary.
Performance
The third day of the Olympic Qualifying Series (OQS) featured the men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead semi-finals, selecting the top-eight athletes to compete in the final.
Performance
Part one of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Shanghai, China, began today with the Boulder qualifying round. 46 men and 48 women are contesting the combined Boulder and Lead event at the city’s Urban Park over a four-day event on the Huangpu riverside, all in a bid to secure coveted spots at Paris 2024.