Six crags to kickstart your trip to Leonidio, Greece
Leonidio is a limestone sport climbing paradise in the Peloponnese region of mainland Greece. With a mixture of steep tufa climbs and intricately pocketed slabs, there's something for everyone and a grade range to match, but the sheer amount of rock in the region can leave you feeling flustered. Where to begin? Read on...
First things first
When to go
Peak climbing time in the area tends to be from mid-October through to early January, when temps are most comfortable for climbing and rain is (usually) minimal. Conditions of course can vary, and if climbing on the higher, north-facing crags, you will almost certainly be glad of a down jacket and belay gloves! Climbing season extends to around mid-March, but after that it all gets a bit hot and sweaty.
Getting there
About a three and a half hour drive from Athens airport and easily accessed by bus or train, the town of Leonidio is nestled among towering red rock escarpments and a stone's-throw from pebble beaches.
Once you have departed the highway and its regular toll booths, the drive from Athens is via sharply curving roads along the coastline - it's pleasant, but requires attention! A flight to Kalamata will shave an hour off the drive, but arrivals are a little less regular. Buses from Athens take around 4 hours and drop you off in the town centre.
Staying there
Leonidio has a multitude of accommodation types, from spacious apartments suitable for larger groups, to more compact options for solo travellers or those who just need a place to lay their head. Around 5km from the town, there is a spacious campsite which is situated on the beach - perfect for a post-climb dip in the med.
Food and Drink
Leonidio is a lively and friendly town with a number of well-stocked grocery shops and a weekly market selling an array of fresh produce. There are several restaurants, bars and bakeries (try Spanakopita - a gold standard crag snack).
Other amenities
Leonidio has two cash points, a petrol station, post office and a small hospital. Locals and visiting climbers often organise community activities such as art sessions, traditional Greek dancing and film screenings which are well attended. You can find out what's by visiting the Panjika Cooperative climbers' bar or shop. There are free public toilets in the town which are maintained by the municipality - climbers are encouraged to respect this privilege!
Ready, steady...
Guidebooks
As of December 2024, there are three guidebooks to be had covering the Leonidio and Kyparissi area. The most recent and comprehensive is undoubtedly Panjika Cooperative's 4th edition, which covers a grand total of - brace yourself - 2673 single-pitch and 49 multi-pitch routes spread over 111 sectors. When we say there's a lot of rock, we mean it!
Gear up
Whilst not strictly essential, an 80m rope will be well worth lugging up the hill if you want to sample some of Leonidio's longer routes. Many of the 'classics' stand at a good 40m tall, and some have spicy extensions too! Always check the guidebook that your rope will reach the ground BEFORE setting off, and tie a knot in the end of it to be sure.
Bolting on most routes is generous and logical, and 20-25 quickdraws will see you right (you can always pool resources with your partner). For some multi-pitches in the area a small trad rack is required.
You'll also need a belay device, lanyard, a screw gate or two, shoes, helmet and harness.
WATCH: Introduction to sport climbing gear
Climb!
Getting started
One of the best things about Leonidio (apart from the climate, community and Spanakopita) is the incredible variations of rock and climbing styles on offer. Many crags boast both sharper, pocketed grey rock at slab-to-vert angles and the more skin-friendly, steeper red kind too. Another feature of this fantastic area is the presence of tufas, which provide an airy, three-dimensional climbing experience.
Grab your guidebook and browse the menu (over a Greek coffee, might we suggest), and try not to be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of crags and climbs! Below, we've put together a list of six great single-pitch crags to help kick-start your holiday...
Something for everyone
A real crag for the masses, which does mean it is sometimes a little crowded. That said, it's a great place to get started, especially if you like a social vibe and a short walk-in.
Most routes at this roadside venue are shorter and plentiful on bolts, so you can find your rock legs without feeling intimidated by height! With red and grey rock at varying angles with grades from 5b upwards, lots in the mid-high 6's and some tasty 7's too, Sabaton happily accommodates mixed ability groups with a lovely aspect looking out at the ocean.
Another venue with good options for mixed ability groups with routes all named after, you guessed it, the Muppets. The best selection is within the 6a-7c range, with interesting climbing on sharp grey rock. A fifteen minute amble will take you to the crag.
Nice views, a shady outlook and a guaranteed ear worm all day, if you know the theme tune...
Tufa-tastic
One of the more popular sectors - and for good reason! Despite its tendency to get a little crowded at the bottom, routes at Mars are well worth the occasional queue. Dripping candle wax-like formations, huggable free-hanging stalactites and wild, gymnastic movements make this red rock cliff a must-visit.
Mars is a mecca for tufa-lovers not only because of its high-end test pieces, but because it also offers a range of lusciously juggy mid-high 6's for you to throw some shapes on too.
Mars is surrounded by other sectors too, so if the social scene isn't for you, it's easy to sneak away...
A short-ish but steep walk-in takes you to a line of crags overlooking the agricultural outskirts of Leonidio. Theós sector comprises of four crags: Theós Pillar, Cave, Micro and Right, which are a short walk from one another and offer a little bit of everything and a satisfying grade spread. A mix of rock types are on offer here, with juggy but strenuous lines in the mid-high 7's in the cave area and a selection of more vertical, thinner lines in the preceding crags. Zeus (7a) is a popular undertaking in the cave, though you might have to wait your turn!
Things can get awfully chalky up there, so remember to brush the holds on your way down.
For sun-seekers
...or an overcast day
A south-facing option for those who REALLY like the sun, the colder part of the season or when the cloud cover is in.
Bella Vista requires a little more effort on the approach, following switchbacks uphill for around 30 minutes. Grades range from a mere handful of 5's to a broad range of 6's, a few low 7's and one aptly named 8a (Pump). The crag really does live up to its name, with a very atmospheric view of the valley below and the rock quality is excellent. Bella Duracella (6b) is no giveaway at the grade, but provides exciting and varied climbing, fun moves and good holds.
Short and sweet
Short in all respects! If you thought Sabaton was roadside, you could almost belay from the car at Montanejos (though we definitely don't recommend it). Most routes here are between 12-18m, so relatively short compared to many other sectors. For this reason - and the VERY short walk-in - it's a good option for when the weather looks iffy. The steeper lines stay relatively dry, and retreating to your car while the showers pass through is very simple.
There are less options in the lower grades but enough to get your teeth into, and the real excitement happens when you hit 6c upwards. Try Busi's Smile (6c) if you're feeling low on endurance: a short boulder problem on exciting holds is sure to make you do just that.
WATCH: How to lower off a sport climb
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