Access and climbing in Cheddar Gorge
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
To say climbing in Somerset's iconic Cheddar Gorge is special is an huge understatement. It's rich history, jaw dropping landscape and many high quality routes ensure it's fame. But access to the south side of the Gorge is fragile and continued access relies upon climbers taking care to ensure they follow the agreements in place with the landowner, Cheddar Caves & Gorge. Mark Courtiour, our BMC Somerset & Mendips Access Rep, reflects on what it has taken to get the current access gains we enjoy today, and why its so important to follow the restrictions that are in place...
In the past, climbing in Cheddar was a hard and committing experience. For a start you could only climb there during the winter months – regulars referred to it as ‘The Fridge’. It was almost always cold, damp and windy. When it wasn’t, in what passed for good dry conditions, it was arctic. But at least then the friction was supposed to be good. On top of that loose rock abounded, often onto visitor’s cars, and ivy advanced relentlessly, swallowing up holds and routes.
In 2000, government introduced the CROW Act which allowed climbing as a legal right in many areas of open land, regardless of the land owners wishes. Climbing on the North side suddenly became an all year round possibility. The South side remained outside the scope of the Act however.
In 2006, as a result of negotiations with the land owner, Longleat Estate, Martin Crocker and the BMC, the South side of the gorge was opened up to climbers for most of the summer months. The result was a renaissance for climbing here. Routes were cleaned, lower offs installed and many new routes bolted. Some trad routes too were retro-bolted. Martin produced a definitive guidebook to the restored climbs. Suddenly it was a very appealing place to climb and one of the country’s best sport climbing destinations. Naturally, it quickly became very popular.
WATCH: Climbing in Cheddar Gorge? Respect the Rock
The land owner attached some conditions to their newfound affinity for climbers. Freedom to climb on their land came with some complicated restrictions based around the safety of visitors to the Gorge during the busiest times of the year. It was made clear that failure to adhere to the agreement could result in climbing being forbidden. In addition, fearing expensive legal action should climbers injure visitors through rock fall or even dropping gear, they insisted that all climbers should carry civil liability insurance.
Initially, all went well. Most climbers adhered to the restrictions and as a thank you, Cheddar Caves and Gorge management hosted two climbing festivals in midsummer, even allowing for summer ascents of Coronation Street.
However in 2012 things started to go wrong. More climbers were ignoring the restrictions and climbing as they pleased. Worse still, a few people were rude to the Caves staff and some were actually abusive. Relations took a turn for the worse and the very real threat of a total ban on climbing on the South side of the gorge loomed.
The loss of access would have been a disaster for the climbing community. So the BMC, Martin Crocker and the then Director of the Show Caves (Hugh Cornwell) got together to work out a solution. It centred around the BMC fielding a Warden, contracted to talk to climbers during the critical times for access, making sure of their insurance compliance and asking any climbing without it, or climbing in out-of-season areas to “cross the road”. It worked well and, along with a take up of self-policing, with many climbers showing a willingness to talk to others climbing at the wrong time or place, the number of breaches fell dramatically. The pressure on the Caves staff was removed and everyone was happy. Martin continued in the role of “climbing warden” until 2016 when I took over from him, and Owen Wynne-Griffith now holds the position. My experience was, almost without exception, a really positive one, with climbers expressing their appreciation of the work of the BMC. Those climbers inadvertently out of bounds have always been apologetic, appreciated my explanations and readily moved on.
Sadly, things slipped a lot in 2020. Perhaps not surprisingly given the restrictions on travel, pent up frustration at being denied the outdoors for so long and a loss of the sense of time bought on by the pandemic. The Whitsun period had always been very quiet for climbing, with most climbers wanting to avoid the hordes of visitors and travelling away to climb. But this year was very busy. Too many climbers were climbing in places that were restricted. Most were very apologetic when I talked to them. But a pattern emerged - they had not read their guidebooks, had not looked at the signs I’d put up and had not checked the BMC’s RAD and so did not know that they were putting access into jeopardy by their action.
I spoke to fifty climbers, most of whom were very apologetic. Other climbers also told me of people they had seen climbing off piste, and many had themselves suggested they stop, so the number of contraventions is even higher. Should the trend continue, the risk to our access is very real. The fact is we must take responsibility, know when and where we can climb and stick to the agreement. Should we ever lose access to this great place, it will be because of climbers, and the losers will be climbers. It’s in our own hands.
The summer season continues until the end of the month. From the 1st of July restrictions still apply but some areas have been newly opened up. Routes from the Reservoir Walls up Gorge are being trialled as open all year round and access has been given for evening climbing on Ginsberg, Yew Tree and Horseshoe Bend.
As with all crags, access is not a guarantee and is fluid. Please, always check the access arrangements before you start climbing.
Related Content
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
News
This weekend the BMC joined Avon Access Rep Ben Darby and his team of volunteers near Bristol to install 28 new belay stakes on Main Wall so that climbers no longer need to rely on the wobbly old iron fence as an anchor point. Vegetation was also cleared and a thorough litter pick was carried out.
Access News
Yesterday, former Olympic gold medal-winning cyclist Chris Boardman CBE met with BMC staff in the Peak District to highlight projects that are successfully fighting the climate crisis.
Rock Climbing Skills
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Rock Climbing Skills
It’s Britain, it’s summer, and it’s wet. Why am I not surprised? But all is not lost! There are ways to circumvent the weather when you want to go climbing...
Rock Climbing Learn
Taking your first foray into the world of outdoor climbing? Here's a few pointers to help you get going safely...
Access News
Proposals to make ordinary trespass a criminal offence have alarmed outdoor groups, including the BMC. Ahead of a debate in Parliament on the issue and the possibility of Government publishing the Police Powers and Protections Bill, Ed Douglas calls for the Government to think again.
Access News
There are concerns that government are considering moves to turn trespass from a civil offence to a criminal one. In a public consultation that is currently out for comment, it has been suggested that police powers could be strengthened to force people to move on from unauthorised encampments. The BMC is concerned however, that there could be unintentional consequences of the proposals around issues such as wild camping.
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Rock Climbing Skills
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Hillwalking Skills
Are you a hill walker wanting to tackle steeper terrain, but nervous about heights? Don’t panic – there are steps you can take to fight the fear.
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Rock Destinations
Climbers have a responsibility to understand the relevant access and conservation issues associated with the places we climb. Here are a few pointers to help you enjoy these areas sustainably.
Rock Climbing Skills
A look at the essential skill of abseiling. What do you need to know to get down in one piece?
Rock Climbing Skills
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Hill Walking Articles
The health and well being benefits of physical activity are numerous. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, there are many mental health and social perks to hillwalking and climbing too.
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Rock Climbing Gear
How often do you check your trad gear for damage or wear and tear? Here's the 'how' and 'why' of keeping your cams in check.
Rock Climbing Articles
In this booklet for managers and landowners, the aim has been to address a range of common questions and concerns about rock climbing in disused quarries. Covering all aspects of access and liability, through a selection of case studies, it showcases the benefits not just for climbers, but for the wider public and land managers themselves. Benefits which can be realised with assistance from climbers and the BMC, through the repurposing of disused quarries as rock climbing destinations.
Rock Climbing Skills
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Hillwalking Skills
Camping ‘wild’ is a different way of spending the night outdoors but it isn't allowed everywhere - with a responsible approach however, there are many remote areas where you can still rest your weary head under a star-filled sky.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Trad climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer. Trad climbing is the most popular style of climbing on British crags.
Rock Climbing News
The stats are in from the Bangor University Mountaineering Society's (BUMS, excellent acronym) crag clean up at Penmaen Head, a limestone sport climbing venue in North Wales, near Colwyn Bay.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Rock Climbing Gear
If you’ve never climbed before or have only climbed indoors, the equipment used for tackling real rock can seem mysterious, exciting and expensive. We've put together a list of the essentials...
Rock Climbing Learn
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Article
Want to know more about how you can reduce your own personal carbon footprint and lessen your impact on the environment? We’ve tried to make it simple for you by producing three separate checklists – for yourself, your workplace and for any events you might be arranging.
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Hill Walking Articles
Diversity conversations in the outdoors can’t leave anyone out. At ESEA Outdoors UK we’re celebrating the fact that East and Southeast Asian people go outdoors too, in spite of historical erasure and lack of representation in outdoors media. Here’s what you need to know:
Climate Articles
The BMC has welcomed another conservation project into The Climate Project portfolio, planting seagrass with Seagrass Ocean Rescue in conjunction with the North Wales Wildlife Trust. This is in addition to the current sphagnum moss planting and peatland restoration with Moors for the Future in the Peak District that you can also get involved with here.
Indoor Climbing News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce that the 2024 British Boulder Championships will be hosted at Last Sun Dance in Leeds.
Olympics News
Four sport climbers will make their Olympic Games debuts this summer for Team GB as the British Olympic Association (BOA) name the team that will compete at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Rock Climbing
Dinorwig slate quarries gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018
Access & Conservation
With the general election announced for Thursday 4 July 2024, get behind the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) as we lobby for more access to nature, outdoor education and more protection for the places we love to walk and climb in. Pick one (or all!) of the below and ask your election candidates if they will back it and why it’s important to them.
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Rock Climbing
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...
Rock Climbing Skills
Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.
Performance
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) celebrates the historic inclusion of Paraclimbing in the LA28 Paralympic Sport Program. This landmark decision represents a significant milestone for the sport, reflecting its growing popularity globally.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the 15 athletes selected to represent the GB Climbing team at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Innsbruck 2024. Competition will run from Monday 24 June to Tuesday 25 June at the Kletterzentrum Innsbruck.
Olympics News
The culmination of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Budapest saw GB Climbing athletes Erin McNeice, Hamish McArthur, and Molly Thompson-Smith qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics Games.
Olympics News
The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is reaching its finale at the Ludovika Campus in Budapest this week. A total of 48 top climbers from around the globe will vie for their last chance to secure a spot in the Boulder & Lead event for Paris 2024.
Access & Conservation
As the general election date draws nearer, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) have reviewed the manifestos from each party to help you make a more informed choice when it comes to protecting the landscapes and crags that we love to walk in and climb on.
News
The first of four films in The Landscape Project has just been released on BMCTV, a fascinating new series that brings climbing and natural history together. Starting with the Lake District, presenter Nathan Chrismas, a biologist and ecologist, shares his deep knowledge and passion for the geological and ecological highlights of four hugely popular climbing and walking areas.