How to climb Triglav - the highest mountain in Slovenia
Triglav (2,864m) is Slovenia’s highest mountain and a symbolic peak in the Julian Alps, appearing on both the country’s coat of arms and flag and giving its name - meaning “three-headed” - to the surrounding Triglav National Park.
Header photo: Triglav Summit. Credit: Shutterstock / Matevz Lavric
The first recorded ascent of Triglav was made in 1778 by two chamois hunters. In 1895, a small summit shelter called the Aljaž Tower was built by Jakob Aljaž, a priest and mountaineer, to assert Slovenian cultural identity. Over the years, climbing the peak has become an unofficial national duty of sorts for Slovenes.
While the mountain is known for its North Face - an intimidating 1,000m wall - most ascents follow less technical routes from the south and east.
If you’re looking to tick-off an achievable and lesser-travelled European peak, here are some tips from local guides Grega and Anita Kofler of Kofler Sport, on how to plan and achieve an ascent of this iconic Slovenian mountain.
The Routes
There are several established approaches and routes to the summit, varying in length, difficulty, and exposure. Most climbers opt for a two-day ascent with an overnight stay in a mountain hut.
All summit approaches involve a final ridge section equipped with via ferrata cables. While not technically difficult, it requires a head for heights and sure-footedness.
Krma Valley approach
Starting from the Krma Valley, this is the most straightforward and least exposed route. It’s ideal for those with less experience or a fear of heights. The hiking trail leads to the Triglav Lodge at Kredarica (Kredarica Hut). From here, the summit is a 2-3 hour climb involving some scrambling and via ferrata sections.
Vrata Valley approach
This is a more challenging, adventurous and scenic approach, starting from the Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley.
You can choose between three different routes to climb to one of the huts: the Prag (the most popular, steep and direct), Tominšek (longer, less exposed and easier) or Plemenice route (the most difficult and exposed, traversing beneath the North Face — suitable only for experienced climbers).
Kot Valley approach
A quieter alternative to Krma and Vrata, the Kot Valley route offers a steep but scenic ascent to the Stanič Hut (2,332m) before the final via ferrata ridge section. This route is less crowded but more physically demanding due to its sustained elevation gain.
For those with less experience, we advise starting from Krma Valley.
There is also the option to approach from the Bohinj region, Pokljuka region or Soča Valley region to extend your hike to the mountain.
Huts
Mountain huts play a crucial role in Triglav ascents and are all part of the experience, enabling you to pace your ascent and spend some time simply enjoying being on the mountain. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season (July–September). All of the huts listed below offer food and accommodation.
Triglav Lodge at Kredarica (2,515m) [350 capacity]
The highest hut in Slovenia, Kredarica is the most popular base for summit attempts. The hut also serves as a weather station and is staffed year-round.
Planika Hut (2,401m) [120 capacity]
Located south of the summit, Planika is a quieter alternative to Kredarica. It allows for a shorter summit approach.
Dolič Hut (2,151m) [70 capacity]
The smallest Triglav hut, on the western side of the mountain.
Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley (1,015m) [91 capacity]
This is a common starting point for the Tominšek Route.
Preparation
A basic level of general fitness is sufficient for summitting Triglav, and no prior climbing experience is required for a guided ascent.
From Krma Valley and Kot Valley, the approach involves an initial 4–6 hour hike with around 1,300m of elevation gain up to 2,500m.
If approaching from Vrata valley, you need a bit more fitness for the longer 7-9 hour hike and a strong head for the exposed terrain.
We advise you to climb Mt. Triglav in two days, since there is around 1800m of ascent and descent and between 12-16 hours of climbing all together.
However, a one-day ascent is possible for those with the fitness and experience!
Techniques and tactics
The best time to climb Triglav is from early July to mid-October.
Climbers usually start at around 6 a.m. in the summer, sometimes even earlier.
In addition to appropriate mountain clothing and personal outdoor kit, a summer ascent will require a via ferrata set, a climbing harness, a helmet, crampons and an ice axe (for summer snowfields or snow cover in late spring or early summer).
Logistics
There are direct flights from the UK to Ljubljana and a hire car or public transport provides easy access to all start points in under 1.5-2 hours. Most climbers base themselves in the popular tourist town of Bled or in Mojstrana (closest to Vrata or Krma Valleys) or Rudno Polje (Pokljuja Plateau), depending on their start point.
Some guiding companies offer a taxi or shuttle service to the start points.
Thanks to IFMGA guides Grega and Anita Kofler of Kofler Sport, who are based in Mojstrana and offer guiding on Triglav. Follow them on Instagram and Facebook.
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