How to climb Triglav - the highest mountain in Slovenia

Triglav (2,864m) is Slovenia’s highest mountain and a symbolic peak in the Julian Alps, appearing on both the country’s coat of arms and flag and giving its name - meaning “three-headed” - to the surrounding Triglav National Park.
Header photo: Triglav Summit. Credit: Shutterstock / Matevz Lavric
The first recorded ascent of Triglav was made in 1778 by two chamois hunters. In 1895, a small summit shelter called the Aljaž Tower was built by Jakob Aljaž, a priest and mountaineer, to assert Slovenian cultural identity. Over the years, climbing the peak has become an unofficial national duty of sorts for Slovenes.
While the mountain is known for its North Face - an intimidating 1,000m wall - most ascents follow less technical routes from the south and east.
If you’re looking to tick-off an achievable and lesser-travelled European peak, here are some tips from local guides Grega and Anita Kofler of Kofler Sport, on how to plan and achieve an ascent of this iconic Slovenian mountain.
The Routes
There are several established approaches and routes to the summit, varying in length, difficulty, and exposure. Most climbers opt for a two-day ascent with an overnight stay in a mountain hut.
All summit approaches involve a final ridge section equipped with via ferrata cables. While not technically difficult, it requires a head for heights and sure-footedness.
Krma Valley approach
Starting from the Krma Valley, this is the most straightforward and least exposed route. It’s ideal for those with less experience or a fear of heights. The hiking trail leads to the Triglav Lodge at Kredarica (Kredarica Hut). From here, the summit is a 2-3 hour climb involving some scrambling and via ferrata sections.
Vrata Valley approach
This is a more challenging, adventurous and scenic approach, starting from the Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley.
You can choose between three different routes to climb to one of the huts: the Prag (the most popular, steep and direct), Tominšek (longer, less exposed and easier) or Plemenice route (the most difficult and exposed, traversing beneath the North Face — suitable only for experienced climbers).
Kot Valley approach
A quieter alternative to Krma and Vrata, the Kot Valley route offers a steep but scenic ascent to the Stanič Hut (2,332m) before the final via ferrata ridge section. This route is less crowded but more physically demanding due to its sustained elevation gain.
For those with less experience, we advise starting from Krma Valley.
There is also the option to approach from the Bohinj region, Pokljuka region or Soča Valley region to extend your hike to the mountain.
Mountain huts play a crucial role in Triglav ascents and are all part of the experience, enabling you to pace your ascent and spend some time simply enjoying being on the mountain. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season (July–September). All of the huts listed below offer food and accommodation.
Triglav Lodge at Kredarica (2,515m) [350 capacity]
The highest hut in Slovenia, Kredarica is the most popular base for summit attempts. The hut also serves as a weather station and is staffed year-round.
Planika Hut (2,401m) [120 capacity]
Located south of the summit, Planika is a quieter alternative to Kredarica. It allows for a shorter summit approach.
Dolič Hut (2,151m) [70 capacity]
The smallest Triglav hut, on the western side of the mountain.
Aljaž Lodge in the Vrata Valley (1,015m) [91 capacity]
This is a common starting point for the Tominšek Route.
Preparation
A basic level of general fitness is sufficient for summitting Triglav, and no prior climbing experience is required for a guided ascent.
From Krma Valley and Kot Valley, the approach involves an initial 4–6 hour hike with around 1,300m of elevation gain up to 2,500m.
If approaching from Vrata valley, you need a bit more fitness for the longer 7-9 hour hike and a strong head for the exposed terrain.
We advise you to climb Mt. Triglav in two days, since there is around 1800m of ascent and descent and between 12-16 hours of climbing all together.
However, a one-day ascent is possible for those with the fitness and experience!
Techniques and tactics
The best time to climb Triglav is from early July to mid-October.
Climbers usually start at around 6 a.m. in the summer, sometimes even earlier.
In addition to appropriate mountain clothing and personal outdoor kit, a summer ascent will require a via ferrata set, a climbing harness, a helmet, crampons and an ice axe (for summer snowfields or snow cover in late spring or early summer).
Logistics
There are direct flights from the UK to Ljubljana and a hire car or public transport provides easy access to all start points in under 1.5-2 hours. Most climbers base themselves in the popular tourist town of Bled or in Mojstrana (closest to Vrata or Krma Valleys) or Rudno Polje (Pokljuja Plateau), depending on their start point.
Some guiding companies offer a taxi or shuttle service to the start points.
Thanks to IFMGA guides Grega and Anita Kofler of Kofler Sport, who are based in Mojstrana and offer guiding on Triglav. Follow them on Instagram and Facebook.
Related Content
Mountaineering Articles
Ski mountaineering — or SkiMo for short — will make its Olympic debut at the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Games. As qualification heats up and the GB SkiMo Squad progress through the ranks, here’s a look at what the sport involves, what shape it will take in the Winter Olympics and the ones to watch…
Hill Walking News
With the Easter Bank Holiday approaching and more people than ever heading to the hills, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is echoing a vitally important message from Mountain Rescue England and Wales (MREW): be prepared, be informed, and don’t rely on your phone alone.
Mountaineering News
Over 60 climbers from 20 countries took to the Scottish hills from 2-7 March for the first International Winter Meet since 2020. Organised by Mountaineering Scotland in partnership with the BMC, The Scottish Mountaineering Club and The Alpine Club, the event paired visiting climbers with hosts to share knowledge, exchange skills and form international friendships in the beating heart of Scottish winter climbing.
Performance News
The third stage of the ISMF World Cup took place at the end of January in Arinsal, Andorra, where the GB Skimo team faced the demanding terrains of Comapedrosa Natural Park. Organisers adapted to limited snowfall by designing courses exclusively on the alpine slopes, incorporating multiple loops to test the teams’ endurance and technical abilities.
Climate Articles
How do you balance budget with a climate conscience when booking a winter trip? Making changes to the way we travel is one of the most effective ways of reducing emissions and giving the snow and ice a fighting chance.
Mountaineering Articles
On the 9th October 2024, 23 year-old British Mountaineer Adriana Brownlee became the youngest woman to summit all of the world's 8,000m peaks, having given up her university degree to pursue her passion for altitude. Claire Maxted, editor of BMC member magazine Summit, caught up with Adriana to find out how it feels to make mountaineering history...
Mountaineering Destinations
Five of Chamonix's leading ski guides tell us their favourite beginner ski tours in and around Chamonix.
Mountaineering Destinations
Now is the prime time to plan your winter adventures. To help you explore the British mountains over winter, we have chosen six stunning winter ridges to guarantee a grand day out.
Mountaineering Destinations
We asked five experienced climbers for their top pick of Europe's alpine routes to get you inspired...
Hillwalking Skills
How to choose an ice axe for your next winter adventure
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Hillwalking Skills
In this guide, we share tips to help you navigate your way back to safety in the event of a whiteout.
Rock Destinations
Have you ticked this list? Five British IFMGA mountain guides pick their absolute favourite long rock routes in the Italian Dolomites, the Aravis range close to Chamonix, and from the ‘Grats’ near Andermatt to the Monts Rouges du Triolet; there’s something for everyone to go at from 5c to 7a. If in any doubt of your skills and experience, you know the score: hire a guide.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Mountaineering Destinations
This route of great tradition and history has foiled many a keen adventurer, so what does it take to unlock the aura of mystery surrounding Tower Ridge? Fortunately we have film maker and mountaineer Steve Ashworth on hand to explain it all for us.
Hillwalking Skills
When should you use crampons? Our guide explains the 'when', 'where' and 'how' of deploying your spiky winter gear.
Mountaineering Destinations
Here are some facts, figures and background information on the world's highest mountain.
Mountaineering Learn Gear
Do you carry a first aid kit in the mountains? We take a look at the essentials for any mountaineering first aid kit and how to use them.
Mountaineering Destinations
Mountains have always meant more to humanity than just lumps of rock. We take a look at five summits with mysterious, magical or mythological significance.
Mountaineering Destinations
If you’re looking for an unforgettable, high altitude trekking holiday this year we’ve got some great ideas for you here in Nepal, Bhutan, Pakistan and India from climbing mountaineering expedition operator Jagged Globe.
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
Dreaming of summit glory? You're in luck: there are still many unclimbed mountains out there. All that stands between you and a victorious summit pose is some research...
Mountaineering Destinations
Helicopter rescues in Nepal’s Himalayas are saving lives, but a surge in evacuations has led to insurance fraud, increased premiums, and ethical concerns. As Ed Douglas reports, this new rescue industry may impact your next trekking adventure.
Rock Destinations
Leo Houlding marked his 40th birthday by introducing the next generation of his family to the kind of adventures that he has become renowned for. The Houlding family spent four days climbing Piz Badile, with his children becoming two of the youngest climbers to stand on the summit.
Mountaineering News
Sarah Stirling tracks down mountaineer Paul Ramsden to find out his opinions on his latest award-winning route, sponsored climbers and the media spotlight.