Climbing in the Sun: Steve McClure's Ultimate Winter Destinations

All images: Steve McClure photo library

Way back in the mid 90’s the number of European sun rock winter destinations was limited. I remember the Rockfax guide with El Chorro, Costa Blanca and Mallorca. That was it. These were THE destinations that promised winter sun and sport climbing like we’d never dreamed of. And to be fair, they were absolutely awesome, and they still are. Fast forward 30 years later and there are dozens of incredible winter destinations with the essential ingredients:

1. Dry rock, so an area that is likely to be sheltered from any rain, but also not likely to be suffering from seepage

2. Clear weather. Not necessarily sunny, but just good climbing conditions.

3. Views! I love to be able to see the landscape.

4. More to do than climbing. Could be walking, swimming, cycling…. it's impossible to pick out the very best, but here are a bunch that really hit the spot:

Costa Blanca has it all, from hard sport climbing to incredible ridges, perfect for soaking up the stunning landscape. One of the original, and one of the best. I’ve visited Costa Blanca over 20 times, usually stopping at The Orange House which offers the best basecamp vibe. The real strength of this destination? Everything, everywhere, all at once: climbing, walking, scrambles, beaches, mountain biking, via-ferrata, snorkelling, nightlife if you want it, and even some surfing all within a 30 minute to an hour drive. With the most stable weather in Spain it can be shorts and T-shirt weather even in January!

Costa Blanca Highlights:

• Climbing grades: best grade range is 6b-7b but there's tons of options to go at in the 5's-6a range and a good bunch of grade 4's too.
• Top crag: Those operating in higher grades have the Wildside sector, which is a contender for my favourite crag in the world! The rock is just incredible quality. Generally, this cliff overhangs relatively gently, and is striped by tufas and flowstone making it super technical. Pulling hard just won’t do it! In the shade most of the day and dry in the rain, great conditions all the way from October to May, and half an hour from the sea. Basically perfect! Grades range from about 7b to 9a! No better place for your 8a project!
• Multi-pitch adventures: For the long stuff, Puig Campana is the most famous. The view of this 1406m high mountain behind the town of Finestrat is featured in many photographs, with the iconic ‘notch’ making it instantly recognisable. There are many excellent multi-pitch adventures, typically in the grade 6’s. These routes are pretty long, often six pitches or more, and some needing extra trad rack. However, they offer a real difference to standard sport climbing and an experience you’ll not forget!
• Ridges for a rest day: The ridges! One of the beauties of the Costa Blanca is the out-there wild experience which isn’t that hard to get to! For a rest from climbing, the ridges are an absolute must do. Bernia Ridge (4c) is perhaps the most famous, and El Realet (VS 4c) is an awesome day out and it has some interest to say the least, with exposure in heaps!
• Logistics: Easy access from Alicante, which is only 30 minutes from the climbing areas with cheap car hire and great low-cost accommodation.
• Guidebooks: Costa Blanca Climbs by Roberto Lopez and Costa Blanca Rockfax

Perhaps the most famous ‘holiday’ sport climbing destination in the world. If you have not been, well, you really must! Kalymnos is a paradise for climbers of all abilities. The combination of sun, sea, sand and spectacular sport climbing makes this place special. It is without doubt one of the premiere destinations in the world.

Kalymnos highlights

• Tufa climbing heaven: Kalymnos is where the real tufa-style exploded, with truly incredible rock architecture across all grades.
• Perfect seasons: I’ve been just before Easter when it was very quiet, cold, perfect conditions and simply wonderful, October with a good scene and just right temps for hard sends and a proper swim, and August where a reliable breeze made morning climbing just about right, and a reliable summer temperature made for a very happy family holiday indeed!
• Starred routes galore: The abundance of high-quality routes that navigate this kind of terrain in the 6’s and low 7’s is pretty unique but combine that with a dip in the beautiful sea and a wonderful meal and it kind of ticks all the boxes.
• Beyond climbing: Perhaps the game changer for me was realising there is even more to Kalymnos than climbing. There are way more wonderful beaches than I imagined, fantastic walks, scrambles in areas so remote you’ll think you’re the first person there, even a Via Ferrata
• Guidebook: Kalymnos Climbing Guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussos

Sardinia is so beautiful! And has so much to do. Known mainly for the sea-side sport climbing above sparkling clear water, Sardinia is surprisingly mountainous with peaks at over 1800m and high up crags that are just fine even in the height of summer. It’s one of the few destinations where a high-grade climber could really combine a proper summer holiday with proper conditions.

Sardinia highlights

• Diverse climbing: The outdoor person is in heaven; sport, trad, multi-pitch, boulder, limestone, granite… Via Ferrata, scrambles, big hikes... this place has it all
• All-year destination: A visit any time of year will be great, with lowland crags by the sea are perfect in spring and autumn (with a bonus of warm sea the autumn), while higher altitude cliffs provide great summer conditions. Think beach and snorkelling, then hard cranking the same day.
• Adventure paradise: Combine your climbing with hiking, snorkelling, via ferrata, or epic scrambles in stunning surroundings
• Top crag: The cliffs of Ulassai are amazing. There’s loads of technical wall climbing and facing every direction for your crimpy project in the shade or your tanning project in the sun.

Turkey has long been on the map as a fantastic winter sport climbing destination. It offers two outstanding winter climbing destinations—Geyikbayiri and Datca—both with plenty of winter sun and world-class routes. Here’s a quick breakdown of what each destination has to offer:

Geyikbayiri

The area around Anatalia known as Geyikbayiri is amazing and one of the best for winter sun.

• Access: Just outside Antalya airport
• Accommodation: A dedicated climber campsite with simple huts and a climber's bar/restaurant only minutes from the climbing (and the owners can even collect from the airport!)
• Crags: Multiple three-star crags surround the area, facing multiple directions for sun or shade.
• No Car Needed: Turn up without a car, don't leave the area for a week or two and fully immerse yourself in amazing climbing.

Datca

Datca has become highly regarded by visiting Brits in recent years. If tufas and technical sport climbing are your jam, Datca’s Can Baba will steal your heart.

• Access: A little trickier to get to than Geyikbayiri, it’s a few hours’ drive from Dalaman and you’ll really need a car to get from where you are staying to the climbing.
• Accommodation: Most climbers stay in the cool town of Datca, which has tons of cheap accommodation and very nice restaurants, as well as a short stroll from quiet beaches.
• Standout Crag: There are multiple crag options, however, there is one stand out cliff in particular - Can Baba - and what a cliff that is! If you like tufas and technical sport climbing, there are few better places to be. This cliff alone is why Datca has become so highly regarded and deservedly so! There are actually loads of other excellent sectors all close by, with varied climbing across the grade spectrum, but Can Baba is just SO good, many will be happy to spend an entire week at the same place… maybe even on the same route!!
• Crag Scene: The ‘crag scene’ there is great, with usually plenty of Brits in November/December, but the cliff is so big you can easily escape if you’d rather be away from it all. For the grade range of around 7b to 8b, in the ‘tufa style’ there really are few places that match up