How do British climbers measure up to Adam Ondra?
Adam Ondra climbed 9c back in 2017. But just how impressive was this step forward in sport climbing? And how do us Brits measure up against the mighty Ondra?
Back in 2017, Adam Ondra climbed Silence 9c - the first route of its grade and the hardest in the world at the time. But just how impressive was this step forward in sport climbing? And how do us Brits measure up against the mighty Ondra? Sarah Stirling offers some perspective and gathers some opinions.
Having dubbed it 'Project Hard' as a working title, and after four years of working this 45m line in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway, Adam Ondra finally climbed it and named the route Silence in September 2017.
At 9c, it was probably the hardest sport route in the world at the time. The new grade will be confirmed when – and if – anyone else in the world can climb it. But there may be a long wait: as of 2024, it is still unrepeated.
So just how impressive was this step forward in sport climbing? And how do the Brits measure up against Ondra?
Ondra's achievements so far
1. Ondra is the only person who has climbed all three of the world's 9b+s: Change, also in Flatanger; La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain; and Vasil Vasil in Sloup, in the Czech Republic.
2. Only one of these routes has ever been climbed by anyone else: Chris Sharma repeated La Dura Dura.
3. It was only after Adam had climbed three 9b+s that he decided to get a coach: he joined forces with Patxi Usobiaga in 2014.
4. Ondra says Silence is totally different. “I’d never really climbed anything like it. Every move has to be so precise, but at the same time you have to focus on all the other tiny details too.”
WATCH: Adam Ondra tries Rainman (9b) | Britain's hardest climb
It's hard not to be inspired about where Ondra may take the future of climbing, especially when you look at his past:
Young years
Age 8: Onsighted 7b+
Age 9: Onsighted 7c+
Age 10: Onsighted 8a
Age 11: Redpointed 8c
Age 12: Onsighted 8b
Age 13: Redpointed 9a
Competition climbing
Age 14: Won the IFSC Youth World Championship, Youth B category
Age 15: Won it again
Age 16: Won the Lead Climbing World Cup
Age 17: Won the Bouldering World Cup and the Lead Climbing World Cup: first athlete to ever win both
Travel
Age 18: Headed to Spain. Became the second person to onsight an 8c+ (the first was Paxti Usobiaga, who is now Ondra's coach). Over two days he onsighted five of them (two on the same day)
Age 19: Became the first person to climb a 9b+ (Change in Norway). Headed to America and flashed Southern Smoke Direct 9a+ in the Red River Gorge. Also onsighted Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, both 9a, suggesting they were easy at the grade
Age 20: Climbed his second 9b+, Dura Dura in Oliana, Catalunya, and his third, Vasi Vasil in the Czech Republic
Age 22: Became the second person to onsight a 9a (the first was Alex Megos), climbing Cabane au Canada in Switzerland
Age 23: Climbed the Dawn Wall, the world's hardest big wall route
Age 24: Climbed the first ever 9c sport route: Silence
Age 25: Became the first person to flash 9a+
To kick off 2024, Ondra repeated James Pearson's Bon Voyage, E12, in Annot.
Remember La Dura Dura?
Let's flash back to 2013, when Chris Sharma was still generally considered the best climber in the world. La Dura Dura was a route that Chris had been trying for a while. Then Ondra came along. The pair spent two years battling to be the first to climb it. Ondra finally stole the first ascent and, along with it, arguably, Sharma's crown. Chris then managed to make the second ascent of Dura Dura.
Remember the Dawn Wall?
In 2016, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made history by completing their seven-year-long Dawn Wall project in Yosemite. With a crux pitch of 9a level climbing, it is now the hardest big wall free-route in the world: an incredible achievement. Then Ondra arrived in town. It was his first trip to Yosemite, and he had previously done little trad climbing. Humbly, he asked Kevin Jorgeson to show him how to jumar. He ripped gear on his first fall off the Dawn Wall. Unafraid to make mistakes, Ondra learnt quickly and topped out on the route after just a few week's work.
WATCH: La Dura Complete | The Hardest Rock Climb In The World
The Brits on the scene
Just how much of a step forward is Silence? We asked a few of the Brits from the top of the sport climbing scene – Steve McClure, Ben Moon, Jim Pope, Will Bosi and Maddy Cope – for their opinion on this, and how the Brits on the sport scene measure up against Ondra.
BMC: Give us some perspective, how impressive is Adam Ondra's 9c achievement?
Jim: Climbing the world's first 9b+ and now 9c is pretty incredible. I'm looking forward to seeing what's next!
Will: What Adam has just done and has been doing his whole life is truly amazing, because it's always been a level above everyone else. All the 9b+ sport routes in the world have boulders of 8B+ and up on them, so the thought of what a 9c route involves is crazy and hard to even imagine!
Steve: The actual 'effort' put in by Adam is on a par with other climbers who devote themselves to their cutting edge. For these people they are playing the same game, the grade is irrelevant. However, this new route is amazing in its progression of the sport. Adam's skill does really set him apart.
Ben: It’s impossible to comprehend even for those who have climbed to a fairly high level. 9c is such a big grade but I don’t doubt it at all. It would appear that Adam is on another level to almost everyone else except perhaps for Alex Megos, although Adam’s list of ascents is much longer that Alex’s. If you look at his list of hard climbs and how quickly he climbs them it’s mind-blowing.
BMC: What makes him special?
Steve: Ondra is a natural born climber, close to perfection. Tall but flexible, light, strong and mentally solid. His ability to adapt to all types of climbing, and his drive to embrace all types of climbing. He is just as motivated to onsight something as to spend many years on something. He can cope with the pressure of a long-term redpoint or a boulder competition.
BMC: What do you think, Maddy?
Maddy: There is the difficulty of this climb, the actual linking of moves and sequences that are top level when done off the floor, which is obviously very impressive. But then there is also the vision, commitment and perseverance of opening a line of this level, which I find hard to grasp.
BMC: So how do the Brits on the sport climbing scene measure up against Ondra?
Maddy: Adam goes out and searches for something that inspires and really challenges him, taking the ups and downs. I think there are certainly Brits on the scene that measure up in terms of attitude and commitment, like Steve McClure.
Steve: Well, so far the best effort by Brits is by a 46-year-old and it's two grades behind, if it even sticks at that grade!
Ben: In sport climbing we are a long way behind, which I think is quite sad. Adam Ondra, Alex Megos and Chris Sharma are the best in the world, but it would appear that apart from Steve we don’t have any climbers in the chasing pack. We do have a lot of promising young climbers like Will and Jim, and also Aidan Roberts, but no-one in the same class as Ondra. Will you guys become world class? I hope so. I think you have the potential! We just have to wait and see.
Steve: I don't think we are as far behind as the levels indicate. It's much more to do with what the UK is motivated by. We have a lot of strong boulderers, and we have a lot of great all rounders. Yes, we are a way off 9c, 'til someone actually really tries. But let's not do ourselves down. How many people around the world can do 100 Lakes Extremes solo in a day?
Ben: I got myself in trouble a few years ago by saying that we had no world-class climbers. At the time I was speaking about sport climbing but this wasn’t clear and obviously, for example, Shauna is a world-class boulderer.
Will: It's not just Britain, I think the rest of the world is very far behind Ondra, with only a few exceptions like Alex Megos! British climbing is definitely on the way up. With Steve sending Britain's first 9b this year, the future is bright.
Jim: Britain is definitely progressing with hard climbing, Steve putting up Rainman at Malham was for sure a big step forward, and Will ticking off some of the UK's test pieces in a really short space of time shows things are looking bright for the future. But maybe the UK - and the rest of the world - are some way off climbing 9c yet!
Related Content
Olympics News
The 2024 Olympic Games are underway, and the nation's eyes are firmly on Paris and all the Team GB athletes. As Sport Climbing makes its second-ever appearance at the Olympic Games, we get to witness a new chapter in history as four climbers step out onto the mats to represent Great Britain.
Rock Climbing Skills
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Rock Climbing Skills
It’s Britain, it’s summer, and it’s wet. Why am I not surprised? But all is not lost! There are ways to circumvent the weather when you want to go climbing...
Rock Climbing Learn
Taking your first foray into the world of outdoor climbing? Here's a few pointers to help you get going safely...
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Rock Climbing Skills
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Hillwalking Skills
Are you a hill walker wanting to tackle steeper terrain, but nervous about heights? Don’t panic – there are steps you can take to fight the fear.
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Access Articles
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Rock Destinations
Climbers have a responsibility to understand the relevant access and conservation issues associated with the places we climb. Here are a few pointers to help you enjoy these areas sustainably.
Rock Climbing Skills
A look at the essential skill of abseiling. What do you need to know to get down in one piece?
Rock Climbing Skills
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Mountaineering Destinations
In 2014, Swiss super-alpinist Ueli Steck flew into Scotland for an under-the-radar mixed climbing hit with British alpinist and photographer Jon Griffith. Sarah Stirling tracked him down to find out just what he thought of our Scottish winter climbing, whether he’ll be back and what he’s got planned next.
Hill Walking Articles
The health and well being benefits of physical activity are numerous. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, there are many mental health and social perks to hillwalking and climbing too.
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Rock Climbing Articles
In this booklet for managers and landowners, the aim has been to address a range of common questions and concerns about rock climbing in disused quarries. Covering all aspects of access and liability, through a selection of case studies, it showcases the benefits not just for climbers, but for the wider public and land managers themselves. Benefits which can be realised with assistance from climbers and the BMC, through the repurposing of disused quarries as rock climbing destinations.
Rock Climbing Skills
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
What does it take to become a mountain guide? Newly qualified IFMGA British Mountain Guide Tania Noakes gives us an exclusive inside look at the advice she'd have given her younger self to do it sooner.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Trad climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer. Trad climbing is the most popular style of climbing on British crags.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Rock Climbing Gear
If you’ve never climbed before or have only climbed indoors, the equipment used for tackling real rock can seem mysterious, exciting and expensive. We've put together a list of the essentials...
Rock Climbing Learn
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Mountaineering Articles
A historic interview with Hamish MacInnes, legendary mountaineer, founder of Mountain Rescue Teams and inventor of pioneering mountaineering equipment.
Indoor Climbing News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce that the 2024 British Boulder Championships will be hosted at Last Sun Dance in Leeds.
Olympics News
Four sport climbers will make their Olympic Games debuts this summer for Team GB as the British Olympic Association (BOA) name the team that will compete at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Rock Climbing
Dinorwig slate quarries gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018
Indoor Climbing Articles
An interview with Kenneth Ellacott, a paraclimber whose life changed post-accident
Indoor Climbing Articles
Registered blind since birth, due to a genetic condition called Leber’s Congenital Amaurosis, Anna Foo lost her vision completely at the age of 15 years. Talia Lazarus interviews Anna and finds out more about her journey into the GB Paraclimbing team.
Hill Walking Articles
'Called to the Mountains' on BMC TV is a meditative, beautiful black and white short film focussing on Kirsty Pallas, a 26-year-old outdoor instructor and mountain rescue member from Oban in Western Scotland. Sarah Stirling catches up with Kirsty to discover more about the film and, as Kirsty's maternal side of the family are Indian, diversity in the British outdoors.
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Rock Climbing
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...
Rock Climbing Skills
Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.
Performance
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) celebrates the historic inclusion of Paraclimbing in the LA28 Paralympic Sport Program. This landmark decision represents a significant milestone for the sport, reflecting its growing popularity globally.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the 15 athletes selected to represent the GB Climbing team at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Innsbruck 2024. Competition will run from Monday 24 June to Tuesday 25 June at the Kletterzentrum Innsbruck.
Olympics News
The culmination of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Budapest saw GB Climbing athletes Erin McNeice, Hamish McArthur, and Molly Thompson-Smith qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics Games.
Olympics News
The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is reaching its finale at the Ludovika Campus in Budapest this week. A total of 48 top climbers from around the globe will vie for their last chance to secure a spot in the Boulder & Lead event for Paris 2024.
Performance
After six remarkable years with the GB Climbing Team, Richard Slocock has announced his retirement from international competition. With an impressive tally of three gold, two silver, and three bronze medals, the 44-year-old’s contributions to the GB Climbing team have been extraordinary.
Performance
The third day of the Olympic Qualifying Series (OQS) featured the men’s and women’s Boulder & Lead semi-finals, selecting the top-eight athletes to compete in the final.
Performance
Part one of the Olympic Qualifying Series in Shanghai, China, began today with the Boulder qualifying round. 46 men and 48 women are contesting the combined Boulder and Lead event at the city’s Urban Park over a four-day event on the Huangpu riverside, all in a bid to secure coveted spots at Paris 2024.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the lineup that will compete in Shanghai, China to represent the GB Climbing team at the first event of the Olympic Qualifying Series from Thursday 16 to Sunday 19 May 2024.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is proud to reaffirm our commitment to clean sport by backing UK Anti-Doping’s (UKAD’s) Clean Sport Week campaign from 13 - 17 May.
Performance
With the 2024 international competition season now firmly underway, teams are gearing up for events in Salt Lake City, USA, and Graz, Austria.
For most people, walking all the Wainwrights is a challenge spread over many, many years. But James Forrest decided he wanted to up the ante, turn it right up to 11, go all out and walk them all in one outing and entirely self-supported. Is he mad or magnificent? You decide.
Hill Walking Articles
In this one we sit down with Steph Wetherell, co-founder of Every Body Outdoors, a group campaigning for better representation, clothing and gear for larger and plus-sized bodies in the UK outdoors. We talk about sizest attitudes, why seeing plus size people represented by brands and media is so important, and how clothes and kit can be more inclusive. And the unexpected joy of finding your ‘tribe’. We also chat with Head of Product at Berghaus.