Top 5 skills for climbing on Southern Sandstone
Live near London and want to climb outside? Unusual, specific skills are required to access, protect and enjoy the capital's nearest real rock climbing areas. The sandstone outcrops on the borders of Kent and East Sussex are softer than virtually any other climbable rock. Here are the top five skills you need to get started.
Live near London and want to climb outside? Unusual, specific skills are required to access, protect and enjoy the capital's nearest real rock climbing areas. The sandstone outcrops on the borders of Kent and East Sussex are softer than virtually any other climbable rock. Here are the top five skills you need to get started.
Southern Sandstone comprises of a thin weathered crust covering lightly compacted sand. Once the crust has been worn away, rapid erosion occurs. Due to the delicate rock, the only styles of climbing you can do here are soloing, bouldering and top-roping - don't use trad gear.
Southern Sandstone Top Roping
Approaching and moving around the crag
Use the established paths to access and reach the top of crags; step on rock rather than earth where possible and avoid trampling on vegetation. A number of methods can be used to reach the top of isolated pinnacles including soloing if confident, stepping across from above, being belayed across from above using an anchor on the main crag or by using a long rigging rope to extend the moving climbing rope over the edge of the pinnacle for the first climber. Check out film number five below for a demonstration of how to access southern sandstone pinnacles.
#1 WATCH: How to check anchors on Southern Sandstone
How to rig routes on Southern Sandstone
At Bowles, Harrison’s, Stone Farm and Bulls Hollow, belay anchors have been installed at the top of most climbs. Don't thread the climbing rope through these, but set up a non-stretch belay using a rope or sling; making sure the karabiner hangs far enough over the edge of the crag so the climbing rope won't touch the rock.
If there is no belay anchor, you'll usually have to set up a belay using a tree. Tie the rigging rope round the tree as low as possible to minimise leverage. Obviously don't cut down or prune trees! Some trees are a distance back from the top of the crag, so you'll need a rigging rope of around 12m.
Rigging ropes can made from a length of static rope which can be bought from most good climbing shops by the metre. Putting a rope protector around the knot just above the karabiner helps to protect both the knot and the rock. Carefully position the climbing rope and belay, as any weighted rope moving over the rock will cause permanent damage.
#2 WATCH: How to rig ropes on Southern Sandstone
#3 WATCH: Essential gear for Southern Sandstone
Climbing
Top roping and soloing are the only ways to climb here. Don't use any sort of leader protection. If you don't have climbing shoes, wear other soft-soled footwear like lightweight gym shoes, and most importantly clean the soles of your shoes before starting each climb. This prevents loose sand and dirt being carried up the climb by your soles, which will be ground into footholds under your bodyweight and cause unneeded erosion to the rock. Choose a climb that's not too hard for you and try to place your feet carefully.
Moving or stretching ropes should never come into contact with the rock. The sawing action destroys the weathered crust and cuts deep grooves in the top of the crag. Keep chalk to a minimum and avoid cleaning holds, but if you have to, use a cloth to hit the holds and knock off loose sand and chalk. If this still doesn't work, a very soft brush can be used sparingly, but toothbrushes or the like need not apply - they are far too abrasive.
#4 WATCH: How to look after Southern Sandstone
Descending
When you have finished a climb, don't lower off - walk off. On isolated buttresses which cannot be accessed from above by stepping across from the main crag, all members of a party except the last should down-climb on a slack rope. The last member can either solo down if confident or be belayed by throwing a long rigging rope across the top of the pinnacle from an anchor on the main crag, with a locking carabiner tied to the end and a climbing rope fed through it. The last climber is then belayed down with a slack rope, the climbing rope is pulled down and the rigging rope can be retrieved from above once everyone is finished. Check out Film 5 below for more details on this.
Please do not abseil at any Southern Sandstone crag. The top of the crag and the fragile holds on the face will be damaged. In any case, abseiling is not permitted by the owners of Eridge Green, Harrison’s, High Rocks or Stone Farm.
#5 WATCH: How to access pinnacles on Southern Sandstone
READ: The Southern Sandstone code of practice before you get started
Related Content
Rock Destinations
Planning an adventure? Remember to pack BMC Travel Insurance. We’ve got your back: from bouldering in France to trekking in India, sport climbing in Kalymnos to new routes in the Himalaya. Here are five reasons why BMC Travel Insurance is built for the mountains.
Rock Destinations
Here are five of the best places to go for a weekend of nerve-testing scrambling.
Mountaineering Destinations
We asked five experienced climbers for their top pick of Europe's alpine routes to get you inspired...
Mountaineering Destinations
Five of Chamonix's leading ski guides tell us their favourite beginner ski tours in and around Chamonix.
Article
Here are a few of the most gruelling, exhausting, rewarding and brilliant challenge walks Britain has to offer.
Mountaineering Destinations
What's the best 4,000m peak in the Alps for beginners? We asked five British Mountain Guides who are based in the Alps this question - Tim Blakemore, Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker, Andy Perkins and Tania Noakes. All of them picked a peak in Switzerland - testament to the concentration of excellent peaks of that altitude there.
Mynydda
Heading to the Alps this summer? Six Chamonix mountain guides explain their favourite routes, all packed with high adventure but with moderate technical difficulty.
Rock Destinations
Thought sport climbing was all about tiny holds on short routes? Think again. Here we've got five top European venues to recommend you:
Mountaineering Destinations
Are you brave enough for our top five hardest black ski runs in Europe? Ski on - if you dare.
Dringo Creigiau
Here are Steve's McClure's top 8 crags for kids:
Cerdded Bryniau
Forget ghost stories and horror movies - a simple walk in the story-stuffed British wilds is the best way to get your skin crawling.
Mountaineering Destinations
Mountains have always meant more to humanity than just lumps of rock. We take a look at five summits with mysterious, magical or mythological significance.
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Here are our top picks for Deep Water Soloing locations in Europe.
Mynydda
A bit of Scottish winter climbing history, plus a range of classic routes from Grade II to V, complete with big stunning photos and brief descriptions. You're welcome.
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Dringo Creigiau
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...
Mynediad Newyddion
Craig Bwlch Y Moch - one of the busiest areas of Tremadog owned and managed by the BMC - has now been dedicated as Open Access Land.
Dringo Creigiau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.
News
A grand total of £21,521 has been raised from over 600 BMC supporters (including match-funding from Aviva and their individual staff members) in our Sirhowy Crag Campaign on Crowdfunder. Launched on 25 October 2023 by BMC Cymru, this campaign was set up to help purchase and protect this popular yet tranquil sandstone climbing location near Newport and Cardiff.
Mynediad Newyddion
The recent advertisement offering Kilnsey Crag for sale at a price of £150k presents an opportunity to remind members about how the BMC approaches potential land acquisitions. We're also on the lookout for specialist volunteers to support our land management work.
Hillwalking Destinations
Find out everything you need to know about making the leap from walking to scrambling, learn the essential skills and check out our top five UK scrambles.