Best 6 climbs at Carn Gowla, Cornwall, according to our Local Access Rep

Back in September 2024 we reported that BMC Atlantic Coast Access Rep, Iain Peters, and his team had managed to delicately negotiate their way to an agreement with the National Trust about access at Carn Gowla, on the Cornish Coast, around the important nesting-bird restrictions. Here, Iain shares a deeper insight into that long, frustrating process and shares his favourite six climbs along this incredible length coastline now access is permitted again.

Please continue to check the Regional Access Database (RAD) for updates and access info for Carn Gowla and all climbing sites across England and Wales.

What happened with the access at Carn Gowla?

In the summer of 2022, as BMC Access Rep, I was informed of a strong rumour that climbing on the major cliffs of Carn Gowla, at St Agnes Head in Cornwall, was to be made subject to a licence permit by the stakeholders, the National Trust. Two other user groups, model glider enthusiasts and a parapente club had been made subject to this permit system, with access only permitted outside the bird nesting season from early March to late August.

What was your next course of action?

Over the winter of 2022/23 I was able to establish immediately that the area of crags near the village of St Agnes is CROW land and that the popular South West Coast National Trail runs through the property. Rock climbing is an allowed activity under CROW. I therefore arranged to meet the Head Ranger on site, together with the then Chair of BMC SW Area, Mark Kemball, in March 2023. We were told that climbing on the crag would impact Schedule 1 peregrines and other Schedule 2 seabirds such as auks, fulmars, gulls and kittiwakes.

The Head Ranger agreed that we had the right to climb on these cliffs but that St Agnes Head to Godrevy Point was largely a SSSI and that a citation to ban climbing during the breeding season could be obtained, but he preferred the option for such a ban to be temporary and voluntary. After consulting Dave Turnbull, it was reluctantly agreed that the BMC would advise climbers to stay away from the entire 1.5km stretch of crags until any peregrines had fledged and the Regional Access Database (RAD) would be updated accordingly However, neither the Head Ranger nor local birdwatcher knew which nesting location the peregrines might have chosen.

On BMC Senior Land, Property & Access Advisor, Dave Turnbull’s, advice, I suggested that a photographic survey in May2023 from a boat would identify any breeding sites for both peregrine and seabirds. I offered to arrange this along with James Mann, an experienced climber and photographer. I also invited the Head Ranger to join us. He declined. Excellent photos were obtained, and nesting sites identified for seabirds but not for the peregrines. Copies were sent to the National Trust with a request to lift restrictions on those areas where there was little or no impact on bird populations. This was rejected and the climbing remained banned until the third week of August at the behest of the National Trust, not the BMC. We simply agreed reluctantly to the National Trust’s decision.

What happened in spring 2024?

I continued negotiations with the National Trust to suggest that a total ban on climbing over 1.5kms of different crags, many of which would have no impact on peregrine or seabird nests, was unnecessary and would cause ill feeling amongst climbers, but the Head Ranger was insistent that a total ban was still necessary.

In early June I was told that peregrines had been seen at an inaccessible area of the cliffs, so no one had been able to confirm whether they had nested or bred. I offered to arrange for a Schedule 1 licence holder and climber to investigate but this was also rejected. Soon after, I arranged to meet Bill Makin and Steve Sudworth at the NT office in St Agnes and brought more high-resolution copies of the photos, as the earlier ones I had sent appeared to have vanished. At the meeting I was told that further attempts would be made to identify whether the birds had bred and if not, then climbing could resume by the end of the month or early in July. In fact, it wasn’t until mid-August that I received an email to confirm that the peregrines had not bred and climbing could resume.

How did you resolve the issues?

Following the lifting of the ban I continued to negotiate with the Head Ranger and with his line manager Bill Makin. Dave Turnbull also became directly involved in these online negotiations, with the National Trust still initially maintaining that a total “temporary, voluntary” ban would be necessary though Bill Makin seemed more willing to agree to lifting restrictions as we had been suggesting.

I later met with both Bill Makin and the Ranger at the National Trust office in St Agnes, repeated the BMC position and indicated on the enlarged photos we had sent them, all the locations where nesting birds would not be impacted. In a later email exchange Bill Makin announced that the BMC had imposed its own climbing restrictions, not the National Trust. Absolutely not the case.

However, this statement now means that the BMC can, in future, apply restrictions where and when necessary, in consultation with the stakeholders and conservation interests.

How was your BMC Access Role important in this process?

Maybe by being patient, reasonably diplomatic and persevering. Also, as a volunteer rep having the support of BMC Access Officers and consultants at all times. I am a passionate, lifelong believer in the right to roam and climb, and also passionate about wildlife conservation.

TOP 6 CARN GOWLA CLIMBING ROUTES

When I mention Carn Gowla while talking to people about climbing beyond the granite playgrounds around Land’s End, there’s usually a raising of the eyebrows and a change of subject! Yes, it’s partly true this magnificent stretch of sea cliff at St Agnes Head contains some of the wildest and most committing routes in Cornwall, but there are others less demanding. Previous guidebook authors may possibly have been responsible for creating its awesome reputation, ahem!

However, with a new guide being compiled maybe I should set the record straight with a short selection of my favourite routes, serious and not so serious at the crag, so here goes. The below are just snapshots of some of the routes that I have climbed over the many years I’ve been coming to this great crag.

Note: There may be some seasonal restrictions due to bird nesting so best to check on the RAD if visiting between March and late July.

How The West Was Won, Severe

Up for a fun adventure involving a hidden tidal stack called The Little Big Horn, an abseil, probably a swim, a Tyrolean to name a few interesting manoeuvres, to gain a groove that leads to the summit, then work out how to get back without getting wet all over again. Once back on terra firma maybe head for the Wheal Coates tearoom on the coast road, crossing St Agnes Beacon for a well deserved cream tea!

Supernatural, VS 4c

The Black Walls can seem dark and foreboding, but on a sunny evening when the Atlantic sparkles, Supernatural is a friendly outing up a crack that eats medium and upwards gear. Like many of the routes at Carn Gowla, it's worth consulting the guide as it's not easy to find from above. New stakes have been installed so an extra rope to belays higher up the slope is no longer necessary. For me, climbing Supernatural came as a pleasant change after the excitements experienced round the corner on America!

Crystal Voyage, E1

This superb Rowland Edwards route on the unfortunately named Sewage Pipe Cliff, the eponymous pipe long gone, provides yet another great trad expedition but at a friendlier grade. The first pitch climbs out of a large shallow cave to gain the crystal-filled crag that gives the route its name, before an exposed traverse across to a stance on the edge of nowhere. It then follows more juggy rock leading to a grassy ramp. Better than the original finish up a loose wall is to trend left to join the top pitch of Silver Dollar.

Mercury Direct, E2

Not a lot more to say about this magnificent route except to add that if you want to experience possibly the finest E2 on the Atlantic Coast then pack a decent abseil rope an extra length for the final belay, choose a fine summer’s afternoon after a dry spell and head for St Agnes! Wander down to a grassy hollow on the adjacent A Buttress for a great view of what awaits, after a long abseil down the slabs to the left of the groove, before a swing over to land on a platform below the line. All that’s left is to enjoy wonderful varied climbing on sound rock to an easy but rattly finish and belay on your pre-placed rope.

Indian Country, E2

The Alamo it isn’t, just a hidden gem of a corner that’s worth finding. When I climbed this route with a description supplied by the guide book author, David Hope, I managed to get hopelessly (pun intended) lost. But when, eventually, we arrived at the base of the route, we looked up a steep corner capped by a large roof. Steep crack climbing with good protection leads to a cunning escape down and across a bulge to easing slabby grooves and the top. One to savour.

America, E4

Huge, imposing and if approached, as Pat Littlejohn and the late Keith Darbyshire did, on first ascent, requiring total commitment, America is the epitome of the adventurous trad climb. With the advent of long, semi-static ropes and high tech abseil and jumar devices, much of the seriousness of an ascent of this iconic route can allow the climber to concentrate on its strenuous and technical demands in an unrivalled setting, but with the option of an escape!