Best 6 climbs at Carn Gowla, Cornwall, according to our Local Access Rep
Carn Gowla is open for climbing again thanks to the delicate negotiation skills of Iain Peters, BMC Access Rep for the Atlantic Coast. Here he shares his favourite six climbs and shares more about how he was able to overturn the recent climbing ban.
Back in September 2024 we reported that BMC Atlantic Coast Access Rep, Iain Peters, and his team had managed to delicately negotiate their way to an agreement with the National Trust about access at Carn Gowla, on the Cornish Coast, around the important nesting-bird restrictions. Here, Iain shares a deeper insight into that long, frustrating process and shares his favourite six climbs along this incredible length coastline now access is permitted again.
Please continue to check the Regional Access Database (RAD) for updates and access info for Carn Gowla and all climbing sites across England and Wales.
What happened with the access at Carn Gowla?
In the summer of 2022, as BMC Access Rep, I was informed of a strong rumour that climbing on the major cliffs of Carn Gowla, at St Agnes Head in Cornwall, was to be made subject to a licence permit by the stakeholders, the National Trust. Two other user groups, model glider enthusiasts and a parapente club had been made subject to this permit system, with access only permitted outside the bird nesting season from early March to late August.
What was your next course of action?
Over the winter of 2022/23 I was able to establish immediately that the area of crags near the village of St Agnes is CROW land and that the popular South West Coast National Trail runs through the property. Rock climbing is an allowed activity under CROW. I therefore arranged to meet the Head Ranger on site, together with the then Chair of BMC SW Area, Mark Kemball, in March 2023. We were told that climbing on the crag would impact Schedule 1 peregrines and other Schedule 2 seabirds such as auks, fulmars, gulls and kittiwakes.
The Head Ranger agreed that we had the right to climb on these cliffs but that St Agnes Head to Godrevy Point was largely a SSSI and that a citation to ban climbing during the breeding season could be obtained, but he preferred the option for such a ban to be temporary and voluntary. After consulting Dave Turnbull, it was reluctantly agreed that the BMC would advise climbers to stay away from the entire 1.5km stretch of crags until any peregrines had fledged and the Regional Access Database (RAD) would be updated accordingly However, neither the Head Ranger nor local birdwatcher knew which nesting location the peregrines might have chosen.
On BMC Senior Land, Property & Access Advisor, Dave Turnbull’s, advice, I suggested that a photographic survey in May2023 from a boat would identify any breeding sites for both peregrine and seabirds. I offered to arrange this along with James Mann, an experienced climber and photographer. I also invited the Head Ranger to join us. He declined. Excellent photos were obtained, and nesting sites identified for seabirds but not for the peregrines. Copies were sent to the National Trust with a request to lift restrictions on those areas where there was little or no impact on bird populations. This was rejected and the climbing remained banned until the third week of August at the behest of the National Trust, not the BMC. We simply agreed reluctantly to the National Trust’s decision.
What happened in spring 2024?
I continued negotiations with the National Trust to suggest that a total ban on climbing over 1.5kms of different crags, many of which would have no impact on peregrine or seabird nests, was unnecessary and would cause ill feeling amongst climbers, but the Head Ranger was insistent that a total ban was still necessary.
In early June I was told that peregrines had been seen at an inaccessible area of the cliffs, so no one had been able to confirm whether they had nested or bred. I offered to arrange for a Schedule 1 licence holder and climber to investigate but this was also rejected. Soon after, I arranged to meet Bill Makin and Steve Sudworth at the NT office in St Agnes and brought more high-resolution copies of the photos, as the earlier ones I had sent appeared to have vanished. At the meeting I was told that further attempts would be made to identify whether the birds had bred and if not, then climbing could resume by the end of the month or early in July. In fact, it wasn’t until mid-August that I received an email to confirm that the peregrines had not bred and climbing could resume.
How did you resolve the issues?
Following the lifting of the ban I continued to negotiate with the Head Ranger and with his line manager Bill Makin. Dave Turnbull also became directly involved in these online negotiations, with the National Trust still initially maintaining that a total “temporary, voluntary” ban would be necessary though Bill Makin seemed more willing to agree to lifting restrictions as we had been suggesting.
I later met with both Bill Makin and the Ranger at the National Trust office in St Agnes, repeated the BMC position and indicated on the enlarged photos we had sent them, all the locations where nesting birds would not be impacted. In a later email exchange Bill Makin announced that the BMC had imposed its own climbing restrictions, not the National Trust. Absolutely not the case.
However, this statement now means that the BMC can, in future, apply restrictions where and when necessary, in consultation with the stakeholders and conservation interests.
How was your BMC Access Role important in this process?
Maybe by being patient, reasonably diplomatic and persevering. Also, as a volunteer rep having the support of BMC Access Officers and consultants at all times. I am a passionate, lifelong believer in the right to roam and climb, and also passionate about wildlife conservation.
TOP 6 CARN GOWLA CLIMBING ROUTES
When I mention Carn Gowla while talking to people about climbing beyond the granite playgrounds around Land’s End, there’s usually a raising of the eyebrows and a change of subject! Yes, it’s partly true this magnificent stretch of sea cliff at St Agnes Head contains some of the wildest and most committing routes in Cornwall, but there are others less demanding. Previous guidebook authors may possibly have been responsible for creating its awesome reputation, ahem!
However, with a new guide being compiled maybe I should set the record straight with a short selection of my favourite routes, serious and not so serious at the crag, so here goes. The below are just snapshots of some of the routes that I have climbed over the many years I’ve been coming to this great crag.
Note: There may be some seasonal restrictions due to bird nesting so best to check on the RAD if visiting between March and late July.
How The West Was Won, Severe
Up for a fun adventure involving a hidden tidal stack called The Little Big Horn, an abseil, probably a swim, a Tyrolean to name a few interesting manoeuvres, to gain a groove that leads to the summit, then work out how to get back without getting wet all over again. Once back on terra firma maybe head for the Wheal Coates tearoom on the coast road, crossing St Agnes Beacon for a well deserved cream tea!
Supernatural, VS 4c
The Black Walls can seem dark and foreboding, but on a sunny evening when the Atlantic sparkles, Supernatural is a friendly outing up a crack that eats medium and upwards gear. Like many of the routes at Carn Gowla, it's worth consulting the guide as it's not easy to find from above. New stakes have been installed so an extra rope to belays higher up the slope is no longer necessary. For me, climbing Supernatural came as a pleasant change after the excitements experienced round the corner on America!
Crystal Voyage, E1
This superb Rowland Edwards route on the unfortunately named Sewage Pipe Cliff, the eponymous pipe long gone, provides yet another great trad expedition but at a friendlier grade. The first pitch climbs out of a large shallow cave to gain the crystal-filled crag that gives the route its name, before an exposed traverse across to a stance on the edge of nowhere. It then follows more juggy rock leading to a grassy ramp. Better than the original finish up a loose wall is to trend left to join the top pitch of Silver Dollar.
Mercury Direct, E2
Not a lot more to say about this magnificent route except to add that if you want to experience possibly the finest E2 on the Atlantic Coast then pack a decent abseil rope an extra length for the final belay, choose a fine summer’s afternoon after a dry spell and head for St Agnes! Wander down to a grassy hollow on the adjacent A Buttress for a great view of what awaits, after a long abseil down the slabs to the left of the groove, before a swing over to land on a platform below the line. All that’s left is to enjoy wonderful varied climbing on sound rock to an easy but rattly finish and belay on your pre-placed rope.
Indian Country, E2
The Alamo it isn’t, just a hidden gem of a corner that’s worth finding. When I climbed this route with a description supplied by the guide book author, David Hope, I managed to get hopelessly (pun intended) lost. But when, eventually, we arrived at the base of the route, we looked up a steep corner capped by a large roof. Steep crack climbing with good protection leads to a cunning escape down and across a bulge to easing slabby grooves and the top. One to savour.
America, E4
Huge, imposing and if approached, as Pat Littlejohn and the late Keith Darbyshire did, on first ascent, requiring total commitment, America is the epitome of the adventurous trad climb. With the advent of long, semi-static ropes and high tech abseil and jumar devices, much of the seriousness of an ascent of this iconic route can allow the climber to concentrate on its strenuous and technical demands in an unrivalled setting, but with the option of an escape!
Did you know?
Simply becoming a BMC member supports crag access work like this, plus you get all the benefits that membership offers, including these and many more:
£15 million Worldwide Combined Liability Insurance
£10,000 Personal Accident Insurance
Quarterly member-only magazine, Summit
15% off Cotswold Outdoor, Snow+Rock and Runners Need
Related Content
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Part-funded by the BMC, the new Great Bradley Bridge in Exmoor opens up access to the famous, 117-mile Two Moors Way long distance walking trail. Here are our five favourite walks that take in this new crossing.
Cerdded Bryniau Newyddion
With almost 2,000m of footpath around Haytor Rocks in Dartmoor newly repaired, thanks to BMC Access & Conservation Trust funding from the Mend Our Mountains campaign, here are our top 5 walks and climbs in the area.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Do you have Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) days to fill or is your company looking for new and exciting CSR days for your staff? The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has the answers.
Mynediad Dysgwch
This unassuming, bright, green or red moss with lush, almost tentacle-like fronds is hiding five well-kept secrets.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Did you know that the 140,000 miles of footpaths and bridleways we have access to in England and Wales are under serious threat? The footpaths you love the walk on are disappearing fast before our eyes due to erosion from increased footfall and more extreme weather conditions. Here are 14 reasons why we can't ignore footpath erosion.
Mynediad Newyddion
The Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) Big Clean Up event marks an unprecedented effort to begin to rid the mountain of decades-old litter, including a misplaced Santa hat! Over two days, Friday 20th and Saturday 21st September, dedicated volunteers and specialists undertook a challenging mission to clean one of Wales’ most iconic natural landmarks.
Volunteering News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) are delighted to announce the recipients of the 2024 BMC Volunteer Awards.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC volunteers have been super busy this summer, with the latest Get Stuck In project seeing 12 of them create a 50m length of stepping stone path to make a more sustainable way through the bog below Tryfan, Eryri (Snowdonia), North Wales.
News
The BMC is pleased to announce our membership of Sports for Nature (S4N) - the first mountaineering organisation to do so. S4N enables and encourages sporting bodies to champion nature and contribute to its protection and restoration, an initiative that aligns completely with the BMC’s values, including our ongoing access and conservation work, aims for net-zero emissions by 2040 and new Climate & Sustainability Action Plan.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
If you're a BMC member or if you have made a donation to the BMC Access & Conservation Trust (ACT), you are directly supporting our Mend Our Mountains campaign which is funding Fix the Fells again this year. Your contributions enable rangers like Caroline Mercer to consistently repair and manage the Lake District paths that we love to walk on. We caught up with Caroline on a path above Derwent Water, near Keswick, to find out about a typical day in her life - it's pretty hard work!
Cerdded Bryniau Newyddion
This August, 14 BMC volunteers spent two days on The Band in Langdale, Lake District, making repairs to a 100m stretch of footpath in the latest Get Stuck In event, funded by the Mend Our Mountains campaign from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
BMC member Roy Hammond from Congleton, Cheshire, has now volunteered seven times for Get Stuck In events, funded by the Mend Our Mountains 2024 campaign from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust (ACT). This summer he stepped it up a notch and led the Get Stuck In Eryri event this June, coordinating a dozen volunteers who stayed in the Lincoln Mountaineering Hut in Deiniolen, North Wales. The group worked for 6 hours during both days, including a hike up to 750m on Glyder Fach on day one. We asked Roy what he gets out of volunteering on the Get Stuck In events for the BMC, and what it's like to start organising them himself.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC’s Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) is pleased to announce a seventh project within the Mend Our Mountains campaign for 2024.
News
The sphagnum season is upon us again! Now that the ground-nesting birds have stopped ground-nesting, it’s time for BMC volunteers to start planting this incredible, carbon-sequestering moss at strategic locations across the Peak District moorland. Can you help us?
Olympics
With four GB Climbing athletes heading across the channel for the Olympic boulder and lead competitions starting Monday 5 August, not only are they bringing their A-game in terms of performance but, as part of the BMC, the whole team is supporting Paris 2024 in its bid to be the ‘greenest ever Games’.
News
This weekend the BMC joined Avon Access Rep Ben Darby and his team of volunteers near Bristol to install 28 new belay stakes on Main Wall so that climbers no longer need to rely on the wobbly old iron fence as an anchor point. Vegetation was also cleared and a thorough litter pick was carried out.
Climate Articles
The latest Get Stuck In party of a dozen BMC volunteers have been working with the National Trust to stop peat erosion, reduce carbon emissions and promote tree growth in Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park this June.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
One of the biggest projects ever supported by Mend Our Mountains has hit its huge fundraising target, enabling repairs to be made to badly damaged sections along the South Downs Way.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The dramatic skyline of the Great Ridge walk connects the summits of Lose Hill and Mam Tor in Derbyshire’s Hope Valley. Heavy footfall left the path in a badly eroded state and work to repair the damage to the path started in March this year, and has seen 500 metres of the most serious damage along the path repaired to protect the surrounding landscape and bordering habitat.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
A kilometre-long stretch of one most heavily eroded footpaths in the heart of Bannau Brycheiniog (The Brecon Beacons) has been fixed, thanks to £12,100 of funding from the BMC’s Mend Our Mountains crowdfunding campaign.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
England’s highest mountain has been a constant headache for its custodians, the National Trust and Fix the Fells, as ever-increasing numbers seek to top England’s highest summit. Yet a poignant anniversary has highlighted the continuing need for large-scale projects to repair and revamp its slopes and pathways.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
In the last three years Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park Authority have been very active in working on a number of lower level bridleways around Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and more recently started work on the bridleway connecting Capel Curig to Crafnant. While some of these trails have given opportunities to link communities and provide access to lesser-abled users, the scale and nature of the works on some of the routes that pass through some wild and remote areas has also surprised many users.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The money raised through the Mend Our Mountains: Make One Million appeal has started going into work on the ground, after a dramatic helicopter airlift helped path repair work to get underway on Yorkshire’s highest peak.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Commuting with crampons, hard outdoor labour, and spending 120 hours a week with your colleagues - we speak to a mountain path repairer to find out more about the highs and lows involved in this vital job.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Mend Our Mountains: Make One Million has helped leave a lasting legacy on some of the highest peaks not only in Scotland, but in the whole of the British Isles.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The Nuns Cross Path is used by more than 30,000 walkers and 10,000 mountain bikers, as well as horse riders, disabled ‘trampers’ and many others each year - it is a shining example of the accessible but wild landscape Dartmoor can be. But a combination of extreme weather, like the storms of winter 2014, and erosion damage had taken its toll over the years. In stepped the BMC's Mend Our Mountains campaign.
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
This April saw the BMC’s first volunteer day in Pwllheli, North Wales, partnering with the Seagrass Ocean Rescue project and the North Wales Wildlife Trust as part of the BMC’s The Climate Project. Two more dates are planned for May and August, read on for dates and how to get involved.
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
Seven things you always wanted to know about path repair (but were too afraid to ask)
Mend Our Mountains Articles
If you're a BMC member or if you have made a donation to the BMC Access & Conservation Trust (ACT), you are directly supporting our Mend Our Mountains campaign which is funding Fix the Fells again this year. Your contributions enable rangers like Liam Prior to consistently repair and manage the Lake District paths that we love to walk on. We caught up with Liam on the very popular path up Scafell Pike from Wasdale Head to find out what a typical day in his life is like - it's quite demanding!
News
As part of Volunteers Week 3 - 9 June we have Cotswold Voluntary Warden Walk Leader Margaret Reid sharing her inspiring experience. Margaret organises and leads walks in the Cotswolds National Landscape for people from the Friendship Cafe in Gloucester. Activities like this are made possible with funding from the BMC Mend Our Mountains project from the BMC Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) charity.
Volunteering News
This week is Volunteering Week 3 - 9 June so why not get involved with one of the many BMC volunteering opportunities? There are loads to choose from, including helping out at climbing competitions, leading hill walks at events and litter picking nationwide, planting seagrass in Wales, repairing footpaths in the Lake District and restoring peat bogs in the Peak District.
Mynediad Dysgwch
BMC volunteers from the Get Stuck In programme joined Fix the Fells last month in Wasdale on Lingmell Breast, one of the main routes up to Scafell Pike. They spent the day helping to maintain part of this hugely popular footpath up to England’s highest mountain.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
May is National Hill Walking month, but not everyone finds it easy to access this hills, whether that’s due to physical, financial or knowledge-based barriers.
News
The Watkin Path up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and the peat hags on neighbouring mountain Glyder Fach have benefitted from BMC volunteer improvement work on the latest Get Stuck In event, 15-16 April 2024. This was organised by Hill Walking Rep Steve Charles and Access & Conservation Officer (Wales) Tom Carrick as part of the Mend Our Mountains project, funded by the BMC Access & Conservation Trust.
Mynediad Newyddion
This April, local climbers have cleared overgrowing vegetation on the main crag at Wildcat, a popular collection of buttresses near Matlock Bath with a good selection of classic long, mid-grade routes.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC’s volunteering arm, Get Stuck In, donated £1,500 to Fix the Fells this week to buy footpath repair tools to enable our teams to quite literally get stuck in to fixing the mountain footpaths in the Lake District.
Climate Articles
The sphagnum-planting season has come to an end to allow the ground-nesting birds to, well, ground nest! Thank you to all the volunteers that have helped the BMC to plant over 16,000 plugs of this super soggy, carbon-locking moss this winter, helping to restore the Peak District peat bog.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Mend Our Mountains is back for 2024 with six incredible access and conservation projects across England and Wales. This project is funded by the BMC’s Access and Conservation Trust charity (ACT) and we would like to thank all our members, supporters and volunteers for making vital work like this possible. Here’s what is happening this year as a result of your funding, including volunteering events you can get involved with.