Wildcat crag purrs again!
This April, local climbers have cleared overgrowing vegetation on the main crag at Wildcat, a popular collection of buttresses near Matlock Bath with a good selection of classic long, mid-grade routes.
This April, local climbers have cleared overgrowing vegetation on the main crag at Wildcat, a popular collection of buttresses near Matlock Bath with a good selection of classic long, mid-grade routes.
Wildcat is the favourite crag of Greg Jennings, Development Coordinator of Derwent Mountaineering Club, who was instrumental in the clean up. He says, “On Sunday 14 April a group of 13 local climbers, drawn mostly from the Derwent and Oread Mountaineering Clubs, tackled the encroaching vegetation on Wildcat main crag.
“This is one of the best limestone inland trad crags in the UK; it has a unique setting, but also what a great name for a natural crag. Whilst inevitably there is more to be done, it has now been given a spring clean and is climbable so add it to your 2024 climbing diary!
Greg continues, “It is important to respect the access agreement with Manor Adventures, the landowner, which requires abseiling from the top of the climbs. To support this and help climbers find the right area of the crag, we have refreshed and increased the number of fixed abseil points at the top and also marked them with discrete wooded signs. See the list of fixed abseil points and routes cleaned below, and notes about where there is more to be done.
“There are of course many other climbs which have remained climbable, such as Golden Yardstick and Jackdaw Grooves, so this is not an exhaustive list of climbable routes. There are others too which require a lot of work before they can be climbed enjoyably, in particular the Tiger buttress area.
“The crag would benefit from more traffic and a little TLC. Respect the access agreement and get out there and enjoy it! A big thankyou to both the BMC and Manor Adventures who have supported this clean up as well of course to the local climbers who got down and got dirty!”
BMC Access & Conservation Officer Jon Fullwood says, “This is a real good news story after the fraught history of access at Wildcat in the last few years. Access to the crag was lost entirely in 2022 and then again in early 2023. It’s fair to say that relations between the new owner and climbers got off to a very rocky start, so it’s a positive sign that all sides have been able to work together to complete this excellent work. Greg and everyone involved have done a really good job. I hope lots of climbers take advantage and enjoy the quality climbing at Wildcat this summer.”
Please keep updated with the latest access information for Wildcat and all other crags in England and Wales using the Regional Access Database (RAD) here.
Fixed abseil points (all 'renewed' and with discrete wooden name-signs attached)
Catacomb
Broken Toe
Coyote Buttress
Sourpuss
Cat Walk
Lynx
Octopuss
Climbs cleaned
Catacomb (VS) - climbable but could do with more cleaning on 2nd pitch
Catacomb Direct (HVS)
Violent Night (VS)
Climacteric (HVS) - climbable but top pitch could do with more work
Pussycat (HVS)
Octopuss (HVS)
White Room (HVS)
Catastrophe Grooves (HVS)
Broken Toe Groove (VS)
Metamorphosis (HVS) - climbable but more to be done
DunB4
Fragile Glass (HVS)
Sourpuss (VS)
Super Pauline (E1)
Pupilla (VS)
Cat Walk (HS)
Cats Eye (S)
Catharsis Wall (HVS) - climbable but more to be done
Jackdaw Grooves (VS)
Related Content
Mynediad Newyddion
Consultation on Wales’ proposed new National Park – member’s views needed.
Rock Climbing Articles
Carn Gowla is open for climbing again thanks to the delicate negotiation skills of Iain Peters, BMC Access Rep for the Atlantic Coast. Here he shares his favourite six climbs and shares more about how he was able to overturn the recent climbing ban.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Do you have Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) days to fill or is your company looking for new and exciting CSR days for your staff? The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has the answers.
Cerdded Bryniau Newyddion
Over 800 drinks containers were removed from Wales’ highest peak last weekend causing environmental campaigners to demand the urgent introduction of a Deposit Return Scheme (DRS) for bottles and cans.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
Did you know that the 140,000 miles of footpaths and bridleways we have access to in England and Wales are under serious threat? The footpaths you love the walk on are disappearing fast before our eyes due to erosion from increased footfall and more extreme weather conditions. Here are 14 reasons why we can't ignore footpath erosion.
Mynediad Newyddion
The Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) Big Clean Up event marks an unprecedented effort to begin to rid the mountain of decades-old litter, including a misplaced Santa hat! Over two days, Friday 20th and Saturday 21st September, dedicated volunteers and specialists undertook a challenging mission to clean one of Wales’ most iconic natural landmarks.
Volunteering News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) are delighted to announce the recipients of the 2024 BMC Volunteer Awards.
Dringo Creigiau
A peregrine survey by boat with high-quality photography organised by local BMC Access Reps Iain Peters and James Mann has helped to identify peregrine nesting sites so that a blanket ban on climbing at the Cornish climbing site of Carn Cowla can be lifted. A temporary ban had been put in place by the National Trust covering the cliffs between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, including major route locations up to and beyond the America Buttress. The ban has now been lifted so all sections are open, with only crag- and area-specific restrictions in place when necessary.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC volunteers have been super busy this summer, with the latest Get Stuck In project seeing 12 of them create a 50m length of stepping stone path to make a more sustainable way through the bog below Tryfan, Eryri (Snowdonia), North Wales.
News
The BMC is pleased to announce our membership of Sports for Nature (S4N) - the first mountaineering organisation to do so. S4N enables and encourages sporting bodies to champion nature and contribute to its protection and restoration, an initiative that aligns completely with the BMC’s values, including our ongoing access and conservation work, aims for net-zero emissions by 2040 and new Climate & Sustainability Action Plan.
Cerdded Bryniau Newyddion
This August, 14 BMC volunteers spent two days on The Band in Langdale, Lake District, making repairs to a 100m stretch of footpath in the latest Get Stuck In event, funded by the Mend Our Mountains campaign from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
BMC member Roy Hammond from Congleton, Cheshire, has now volunteered seven times for Get Stuck In events, funded by the Mend Our Mountains 2024 campaign from the BMC's Access & Conservation Trust (ACT). This summer he stepped it up a notch and led the Get Stuck In Eryri event this June, coordinating a dozen volunteers who stayed in the Lincoln Mountaineering Hut in Deiniolen, North Wales. The group worked for 6 hours during both days, including a hike up to 750m on Glyder Fach on day one. We asked Roy what he gets out of volunteering on the Get Stuck In events for the BMC, and what it's like to start organising them himself.
News
The sphagnum season is upon us again! Now that the ground-nesting birds have stopped ground-nesting, it’s time for BMC volunteers to start planting this incredible, carbon-sequestering moss at strategic locations across the Peak District moorland. Can you help us?
Dringo Creigiau
A climbers’ meeting this week expressed their opposition to the continued ban on climbing at Symonds Yat, Herefordshire, imposed by Forestry England.
News
This weekend the BMC joined Avon Access Rep Ben Darby and his team of volunteers near Bristol to install 28 new belay stakes on Main Wall so that climbers no longer need to rely on the wobbly old iron fence as an anchor point. Vegetation was also cleared and a thorough litter pick was carried out.
Climate Articles
The latest Get Stuck In party of a dozen BMC volunteers have been working with the National Trust to stop peat erosion, reduce carbon emissions and promote tree growth in Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park this June.
Mynediad Newyddion
Yesterday, former Olympic gold medal-winning cyclist Chris Boardman CBE met with BMC staff in the Peak District to highlight projects that are successfully fighting the climate crisis.
Mynediad Newyddion
Proposals to make ordinary trespass a criminal offence have alarmed outdoor groups, including the BMC. Ahead of a debate in Parliament on the issue and the possibility of Government publishing the Police Powers and Protections Bill, Ed Douglas calls for the Government to think again.
Mynediad Newyddion
There are concerns that government are considering moves to turn trespass from a civil offence to a criminal one. In a public consultation that is currently out for comment, it has been suggested that police powers could be strengthened to force people to move on from unauthorised encampments. The BMC is concerned however, that there could be unintentional consequences of the proposals around issues such as wild camping.
Mynediad Dysgwch
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Rock Destinations
Climbers have a responsibility to understand the relevant access and conservation issues associated with the places we climb. Here are a few pointers to help you enjoy these areas sustainably.
Hill Walking Articles
The health and well being benefits of physical activity are numerous. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, there are many mental health and social perks to hillwalking and climbing too.
Rock Climbing Articles
In this booklet for managers and landowners, the aim has been to address a range of common questions and concerns about rock climbing in disused quarries. Covering all aspects of access and liability, through a selection of case studies, it showcases the benefits not just for climbers, but for the wider public and land managers themselves. Benefits which can be realised with assistance from climbers and the BMC, through the repurposing of disused quarries as rock climbing destinations.
Volunteering
Steve is a Pembrokeshire area volunteer who has been a Local Access Rep for over 15 years. Fresh from liaising with the military for 2025 briefing dates at Range West, Castlemartin, Pembrokeshire, we caught up with him to find our more about his role.
Cerdded Bryniau Dysgwch Sgiliau
Camping ‘wild’ is a different way of spending the night outdoors but it isn't allowed everywhere - with a responsible approach however, there are many remote areas where you can still rest your weary head under a star-filled sky.
Dringo Creigiau Newyddion
The stats are in from the Bangor University Mountaineering Society's (BUMS, excellent acronym) crag clean up at Penmaen Head, a limestone sport climbing venue in North Wales, near Colwyn Bay.
Climate Articles
Want to know more about how you can reduce your own personal carbon footprint and lessen your impact on the environment? We’ve tried to make it simple for you by producing three separate checklists – for yourself, your workplace and for any events you might be arranging.
Hill Walking Articles
Diversity conversations in the outdoors can’t leave anyone out. At ESEA Outdoors UK we’re celebrating the fact that East and Southeast Asian people go outdoors too, in spite of historical erasure and lack of representation in outdoors media. Here’s what you need to know:
Climate Articles
The BMC has welcomed another conservation project into The Climate Project portfolio, planting seagrass with Seagrass Ocean Rescue in conjunction with the North Wales Wildlife Trust. This is in addition to the current sphagnum moss planting and peatland restoration with Moors for the Future in the Peak District that you can also get involved with here.
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
This April saw the BMC’s first volunteer day in Pwllheli, North Wales, partnering with the Seagrass Ocean Rescue project and the North Wales Wildlife Trust as part of the BMC’s The Climate Project. Two more dates are planned for May and August, read on for dates and how to get involved.
Rock Climbing Articles
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
With the general election announced for Thursday 4 July 2024, get behind the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) as we lobby for more access to nature, outdoor education and more protection for the places we love to walk and climb in. Pick one (or all!) of the below and ask your election candidates if they will back it and why it’s important to them.
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
As the general election date draws nearer, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) have reviewed the manifestos from each party to help you make a more informed choice when it comes to protecting the landscapes and crags that we love to walk in and climb on.
Mynediad & Chadwraeth
The Labour Party has announced three policies to help connect people with nature. The British Mountaineering Council has advocated for greater access to nature for many decades and welcomes action to promote this – we’ve therefore taken a look at each policy individually.
Rock Destinations
The Landscape Project is the BMC's latest film series that brings climbing and natural history together. Presenter Nathan Chrismas, a biologist and ecologist, shares his deep knowledge and passion for the geological and ecological highlights of four hugely popular climbing and walking areas.
Mynediad Newyddion
Wildlife and Countryside Link—a coalition of over 80 charities including the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), RSPB, The Wildlife Trusts, the National Trust and WWF UK—is challenging all political parties to set out how they would halt wildlife decline by 2030, ahead of the General Election.
Volunteering News
This week is Volunteering Week 3 - 9 June so why not get involved with one of the many BMC volunteering opportunities? There are loads to choose from, including helping out at climbing competitions, leading hill walks at events and litter picking nationwide, planting seagrass in Wales, repairing footpaths in the Lake District and restoring peat bogs in the Peak District.
Mynediad Dysgwch
BMC volunteers from the Get Stuck In programme joined Fix the Fells last month in Wasdale on Lingmell Breast, one of the main routes up to Scafell Pike. They spent the day helping to maintain part of this hugely popular footpath up to England’s highest mountain.
News
This May is National Walking month, so to celebrate the power of a good old stomp around the UK’s countryside, nine of the BMC staff have shared their favourite hike. From fossil-hunting in the Peak District and airy Scottish scrambling to the Via Alpina in Switzerland, one of these is bound to tickle your fancy this spring or summer. Better still, with the BMC collaborations with Komoot and HotelPlanner, you can plan and navigate your route and find your accommodation for your trip for less!
News
The Watkin Path up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and the peat hags on neighbouring mountain Glyder Fach have benefitted from BMC volunteer improvement work on the latest Get Stuck In event, 15-16 April 2024. This was organised by Hill Walking Rep Steve Charles and Access & Conservation Officer (Wales) Tom Carrick as part of the Mend Our Mountains project, funded by the BMC Access & Conservation Trust.
Mynediad Dysgwch
Grabbing your attention with this beautiful picture of a Kestrel (Cudull Coch)! Now that the rain has subsided a little, it's a good time to remind everyone that we share our crags with many other creatures, notably our feathered friends who like to nest where we like to climb.
Mend Our Mountains Articles
The BMC’s volunteering arm, Get Stuck In, donated £1,500 to Fix the Fells this week to buy footpath repair tools to enable our teams to quite literally get stuck in to fixing the mountain footpaths in the Lake District.
Climate Articles
The sphagnum-planting season has come to an end to allow the ground-nesting birds to, well, ground nest! Thank you to all the volunteers that have helped the BMC to plant over 16,000 plugs of this super soggy, carbon-locking moss this winter, helping to restore the Peak District peat bog.
News
The BMC have been hard at work presenting the Outdoors For All Manifesto to parliament, kick-starting a new addition to The Climate Project, arranging re-bolting, cleaning up crags and consulting on access across England and Wales. Here are the highlights as we swing into spring.
This Valentine’s Day, show your love for our land by sharing the BMC’s new Access Land film to help campaign for better access to wild spaces.
Mynediad Newyddion
This Valentine’s Day, show your love for our land by sharing the BMC’s new Access Land film to help campaign for better access to wild spaces.
Mynediad Newyddion
The BMC supports Dartmoor National Park Authority in its appeal against a ban on wild camping.
Mynediad Newyddion
The recent advertisement offering Kilnsey Crag for sale at a price of £150k presents an opportunity to remind members about how the BMC approaches potential land acquisitions. We're also on the lookout for specialist volunteers to support our land management work.
The Cwm Idwal Winter Monitoring system is now back live and with new equipment and software. Ready for you to head up the hills in the best wintery conditions.