28 stakes later: new belay anchors installed at Avon Gorge, Bristol
This weekend the BMC joined Avon Access Rep Ben Darby and his team of volunteers near Bristol to install 28 new belay stakes on Main Wall so that climbers no longer need to rely on the wobbly old iron fence as an anchor point. Vegetation was also cleared and a thorough litter pick was carried out.
The BMC provided financial assistance for the stakes to be purchased and equipment hire and the works were organised and coordinated by South West Area volunteers. Many thanks to all who supported the Crowdfunder for this work too. The works were approved through the BMC’s Event process, which meant that those taking part could be covered under our insurance during the work.
BMC CEO Paul Ratcliffe and Access & Conservation Officer for England, Jon Fullwood were both there to help out, talk to volunteers and record the event. Jon says, “The event was brilliantly organised by the Avon Access Rep Ben Darby. The inimitable Libby Houston was present as Natural England’s botanist, to make sure we didn’t damage any rare plants. Crucially there was a really good turnout of volunteers, mostly local climbers and some from further afield including the Dorset Access Rep Marti Hallett.
“The Avon Gorge is host to a huge quantity of good quality (mostly) traditional climbing of all grades, both single and multi-pitch. There are very few natural anchors on the crag top at Avon and historically this has led to climbers having to use the fence instead. The fence is rather wobbly in places and the landowner Bristol City Council would rather we didn’t rely on it. Stainless steel stakes provide a long-lasting, very strong replacement.
“The soil on the crag top is very thin so we had to drill about a metre into bedrock for most of the 28 stakes installed. It was necessary to carry out some limited vegetation clearance around the stake installation sites and a thorough litter pick was also done for good measure.
“The work was carried out with the approval of both Bristol City Council (BCC) and Natural England. BCC own the land and they were happy to see the stakes go in. They rely on the fence, which is fairly overgrown with scrub, as a barrier to keep the public away from the edge and they would appreciate it if climbers now use the stakes instead of the fence. They also request that no further devegetation is carried out around the fence as the vegetation effectively acts as part of this barrier.
“As well as an annual scrub clearance and litter pick event, Avon Gorge has a lot of in situ, fixed protection which the local access team are in the process of gradually assessing and replacing. This is a big task and more volunteer assistance would be very welcome.
“We would like to extend a big thanks to all involved on the day and anyone who contributed to the Crowdfunder which helped get things off the ground. We hope everyone has a great time climbing the routes on Main Wall which now benefit from shiny new anchor stakes.”
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Your BMC membership fee goes towards protecting your right to access crags and CROW land, as well as conservation & maintenance projects to protect the landscapes we love to climb and walk in. Join today to support this important work and receive discounts, benefits, insurance cover and more.
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