Interview: Steve McClure on the second ascent of Lexicon E11 7a
Steve McClure on making the second ascent of Lexicon E11 7a, maths, tactics and taking 70-foot whippers.
On September 4 2021, Neil Gresham made the first ascent of Lexicon at Pavey Ark. Soon after, Steve McClure, who had been itching to get on it, claimed the second ascent... after taking a 70-foot whipper in his stride during his first serious 'look' at the route. This is Steve's second of the grade: he made the third ascent of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock in 2008. Sarah Stirling interviews.
On September 17, Neil Gresham posted on Instagram:
"THE MOST OUTRAGEOUS THING I’VE EVER WITNESSED in climbing … Yesterday evening, @ste_mcclure found himself 35 feet above his gear, staring at the penultimate move of my new Lakes route, Lexicon E11 7a … and his right foot popped. It was one of those moments when time froze. I clutched the rope in horror as he started plummeting down towards me; yet he didn’t seem to stop. I honestly thought we’d misjudged it and that ‘that was it’. Then just when it seemed that he was going to land on my head, the rope suddenly whipped him into the wall and stopped him about 12ft off the ground. Having slept on it I don’t think I’ve seen anything like this before, even in films. Is trad climbing alive in Britain? … err, yes, and thankfully, so is Steve McClure." - @neil.gresham
So what happened? Here's Steve McClure with the full story.
SM: The moment I saw Lexicon I was totally jealous of Neil [Gresham]'s find! I first had a little play on it back in May while Neil was working towards the first ascent. I wasn't jealous because I wanted to do it first, but because I just wanted to try and climb it straight away; it was obviously such a good challenge. So as soon as Neil had made his first ascent I was back...
The rock is lovely: excellent friction and texture. Everyone who climbs on that crag says the same thing. It’s really special. And the climbing is so absorbing. The lower two thirds is maybe F7b, maybe E5 or E6, vertical and really technical on small edges with lots of tiny footholds. Then there is a decent horizontal break to rest and place gear before the headwall.
The hard section is maybe 10 degrees overhanging and absolutely continuous: it really draws you in. Each move is super hard and tenuous, requiring accuracy and commitment. The holds are tiny edges and pinches, all the way to the top. Brilliant!
The ‘maths’ of the route is so compelling, too, with gear at two-thirds height. I love the fact that the whole top section must be just climbed, sprinted, no faffing with gear, full commitment! It’s a gift to have these dimensions, if the ground was much closer or the upper wall much longer the whole thing would have been a non-starter for me. I guess I could work the route for ages to try to create a huge margin but at that level I doubt I could get it to a point where I was really certain I’d absolutely not fall off...
Luckily for me, Neil had put a lot of thought into what would happen if he fell off Lexicon. He’d done drop tests with a rucksack, and even dropped off himself from a fair distance up the headwall. Without his work I’d probably have been a little more confident that it would all work out OK if I fell off. After all, it ‘looks’ well balanced: gear at 14m, the top at 21m… that gives a third of the route as a safety net, right?
But the safety margins absolutely don’t work out like that. It's about the amount of rope in the system and how much it stretches. It's about forces generated in a fall of that length and how much the belayer will be lifted up. Quite obviously there wasn’t much to play with. And fall direction was important too, with the base of the route an open corner with ledges on either side; the gear had to be in the right place to ‘guide’ you into that corner. I was lucky to have Neil's advice to follow...
Neil belayed me on my first serious 'look' at the route. I kind of sneaked up on him. It was all a surprise that day, we were just there for filming Neil. Next thing I was setting off ‘just for a look’, and then I was going for it. Maybe that’s unfair. It’s a big ask. This is no ‘sport’ belay. And not only that, as the climber, it's absolutely crucial to know the belayer is 100% with you and 100% reliable. There is more for them to do than just stand there!
And then I fell about 70ft. Not a monster really. I was pretty much OK, just a cut and bruised hand. We’d figured this is about what would happen from our maths! However, I came away feeling I’d got the fall just right, landing perfectly in the corner at the base of the route. I’d bounced into the wall front on. But who knows if I’d inverted, got the rope behind my leg, slammed in backwards, had more slack in the system or ripped more gear. It happened in an instant, one second I felt my foot skid, the next I was on the rope. That unnerved me, that I’d had no chance to correct myself in the air.
So I clearly showed you can fall off it, and no doubt many well suggest it's ‘safe’. And maybe it is. I’m fairly cautious and perhaps I’m dwelling on it too much. The likes of Franco Cookson, Jim Pope and Dave Macleod may look at it and leap off the top for fun, they are way bolder than me. But I’d certainly suggest at least a little caution and a little pondering. Most likely, future ascensionists will treat it with respect and not fall off anyway.
After the fall I knew I’d have to treat Lexicon with a little more respect. I needed to warm up carefully and efficiently. To practice the gear placement, and to perhaps give it a little more margin! It was good to know I could take that lob, but I wanted to avoid it just as much as on my first effort!
Getting back on the route after the fall was surprisingly OK. The effect on my psyche was kind of neutral! Having now climbed the route I’m actually really psyched to have taken the fall. I feel like I really got the full experience! I showed the system worked, and I tried to take confidence from that, to believe that this route was just good to go. There was no reason why another fall should be worse. But at the same time, it was clear that it wasn't fun! Cuts and bruises were probably likely, and that weighs on the mind when you are about to attack a route close to your limit.
On my next (and successful) try I was belayed by Adrian Nelhams. He has belayed Neil a lot and has been part of the scene up there the last months as he tries Impact Day and Neil tried Lexicon. He’s a totally reliable and experienced guy; that made a difference I’m sure as I threw myself into the final moves!
WATCH: OLYMPIAD | Steve McClure makes second ascent of E10 / 8b
Neil asked me about the E11 grade before he graded it. He was torn between E10 and E11. I said if he really believed it to be E11, then of course go with it. He has no agenda, he's already so accomplished. The duty of the first ascensionist is to honestly propose a grade based on their experience. This is what Neil has done.
Of course, people will ask my opinion on the E11 grade, like I actually know! I am no expert like MacLeod, though I'll suggest that it is harder than other E10’s I’ve done. And so it could be E11, or hard E10, but overall, I'm not suggesting it should be downgraded. Of course we may be wrong, it may be E10, but E11 seems a fair place to start.
If the fall was safe but huge, I'd be suggesting E10, (or even E9 if I was feeling 'British' with our culture of downgrading and harsh grading!). But I'm not sure it is safe. True, I lobbed from way up and got away with it, but I think it's just that... I got away with it!
I’m certainly no expert in the risk-taking field and have a lot to learn. I’ve realised that perhaps the key skill in this kind of climbing is judgement; to know when is the time to try. Too much caution and you’ll never set off, too little and you could die. I have huge respect for the masters of this dicipline; MacLeod, Franco, Caff, Woodburn, Hazel, Emma and many more. I’m very analytical as a climber, and I’m not a really bold climber. I don’t consider I’m taking huge risks. I’d say my main strategy is to analyse the danger and realistically be able to decide if its ‘for me’ or not.
WATCH: Steve McClure climbs Britain's hardest climb | Rainman 9b
If I determine the danger is really high, I’ll walk away. My list of proper 'bold' routes is zero! Routes like Harder Faster,'Indian Face, The Bells The Bells and Meshuga just fill me with dread and I have absolutely no drive to do them at all, they don't even register! Though Indian Face I'd love to have (already) climbed. For me, on a personal level, perhaps the most important route in the history of UK climbing.
I’ve been well branded as a sport climber. I’ve had people lecture me and stop me at the climbing wall and suggest I should try trad climbing because I might like it! I’m not remotely bothered by this and find it quite funny, but I consider myself as more of an all-rounder really. I began as a trad climber, and didn’t really sport climb till I was about 24. Since then I’ve mixed it up all the time but hard redpoints grabbed the headlines. I’ve always been fascinated by the way in which the trad ‘experience’ demands so much; especially the British style, with complex gear and ropework. Taking nature’s full challenge is pretty special.
I’ve been really motivated by trad recently and I think that has been partly due to CV19. During lockdown I craved more than anything being out in the wild places. I craved this way more than climbing! And so it was just so lovely to be back out, to be in Pembroke by the sea, or up in the mountains in the Lakes and North Wales. I wanted to be there as much as I could, and so was drawn to the routes in those areas.
And they don’t have to be hard. Some of my best days this year have been on E1s and E2s. But routes such as Lexicon and Olympiad just grabbed me, in particular Lexicon which I just immediately wanted to try. There are a ton of routes I’d like to get stuck into now. With sport climbing I was feeling like I was running out of really motivating lines, but with trad I feel like I’ve barely started!
Related Content
Rock Climbing
A peregrine survey by boat with high-quality photography organised by local BMC Access Reps Iain Peters and James Mann has helped to identify peregrine nesting sites so that a blanket ban on climbing at the Cornish climbing site of Carn Cowla can be lifted. A temporary ban had been put in place by the National Trust covering the cliffs between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, including major route locations up to and beyond the America Buttress. The ban has now been lifted so all sections are open, with only crag- and area-specific restrictions in place when necessary.
Rock Climbing
A climbers’ meeting this week expressed their opposition to the continued ban on climbing at Symonds Yat, Herefordshire, imposed by Forestry England.
Rock Climbing Skills
Do you know your gaston from your guppy, and can you spray about it while sandbagging your mate? Find out what it all means with our guide to climbing terminology.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Sport climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer.
Rock Climbing Skills
It’s Britain, it’s summer, and it’s wet. Why am I not surprised? But all is not lost! There are ways to circumvent the weather when you want to go climbing...
Rock Climbing Articles
It might seem like a lofty goal, but maybe it’s time to give 8a a go. All you need is the right route, a shot of determination, and to read this 10 step guide on how to climb 8a.
Rock Climbing Skills
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E.
Rock Climbing Articles
Back in 2017, Margo Hayes ticked La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, Spain. By September that same year she had climbed another 9a+, Biographie at Ceuse, and in 2019 she ticked her third. How does she do it?
Hillwalking Skills
Are you a hill walker wanting to tackle steeper terrain, but nervous about heights? Don’t panic – there are steps you can take to fight the fear.
Rock Climbing Gear
Everything you need to know about the various types of rope for climbing and mountaineering can be found in our handy, free guide.
Access Articles
Access to the south side of Cheddar Gorge is fragile and relies upon climbers following the agreements in place with the landowner.
Rock Destinations
Climbers have a responsibility to understand the relevant access and conservation issues associated with the places we climb. Here are a few pointers to help you enjoy these areas sustainably.
Rock Climbing Skills
A look at the essential skill of abseiling. What do you need to know to get down in one piece?
Rock Climbing Skills
A common and false perception of abseiling is that it is an adventure activity that is completely safe. But accidents do occur even in controlled circumstances.
Rock Climbing Skills
What are the different types of climbing and mountaineering and what do they involve?
Mountaineering Destinations
In 2014, Swiss super-alpinist Ueli Steck flew into Scotland for an under-the-radar mixed climbing hit with British alpinist and photographer Jon Griffith. Sarah Stirling tracked him down to find out just what he thought of our Scottish winter climbing, whether he’ll be back and what he’s got planned next.
Hill Walking Articles
The health and well being benefits of physical activity are numerous. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, there are many mental health and social perks to hillwalking and climbing too.
Rock Climbing Articles
Dream of climbing 7a but think you’ll never reach that level? With a little hard work and some secret beta from top sport climber Steve McClure, you’ll be clipping the chains on your project in no time.
Rock Climbing Gear
How often do you check your trad gear for damage or wear and tear? Here's the 'how' and 'why' of keeping your cams in check.
Rock Climbing Articles
In this booklet for managers and landowners, the aim has been to address a range of common questions and concerns about rock climbing in disused quarries. Covering all aspects of access and liability, through a selection of case studies, it showcases the benefits not just for climbers, but for the wider public and land managers themselves. Benefits which can be realised with assistance from climbers and the BMC, through the repurposing of disused quarries as rock climbing destinations.
Rock Climbing Skills
Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Here we give the low down on how to get started.
Rock Climbing Articles
Test your knowledge and see if you can name these 10 famous British female mountaineers and climbers, from pantaloon-clad pioneers of the alps, to contemporary crushers.
Mountaineering Learn Skills
What does it take to become a mountain guide? Newly qualified IFMGA British Mountain Guide Tania Noakes gives us an exclusive inside look at the advice she'd have given her younger self to do it sooner.
Rock Climbing Articles
The Youth Ready to Rock Trad climbing course is designed to help young climbers (11-17 year olds) make their first moves onto rock by having a fun day out, as well as covering the use of some key skills and equipment, for both the participant and the parent/carer. Trad climbing is the most popular style of climbing on British crags.
Rock Climbing Gear
If you’ve never climbed before or have only climbed indoors, the equipment used for tackling real rock can seem mysterious, exciting and expensive. We've put together a list of the essentials...
Rock Climbing Learn
If you've learnt to climb routes indoors, sport climbing can be a logical first step into the exciting world of outdoor climbing. Here's how to get started...
Rock Destinations
Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Rock Climbing Skills
Climb grade 5 outdoor sport routes, but want to progress? How do you start pushing your comfort zone, and what should you focus on?
Mountaineering Articles
A historic interview with Hamish MacInnes, legendary mountaineer, founder of Mountain Rescue Teams and inventor of pioneering mountaineering equipment.
Indoor Climbing Articles
An interview with Kenneth Ellacott, a paraclimber whose life changed post-accident
Indoor Climbing Articles
Registered blind since birth, due to a genetic condition called Leber’s Congenital Amaurosis, Anna Foo lost her vision completely at the age of 15 years. Talia Lazarus interviews Anna and finds out more about her journey into the GB Paraclimbing team.
Hill Walking Articles
'Called to the Mountains' on BMC TV is a meditative, beautiful black and white short film focussing on Kirsty Pallas, a 26-year-old outdoor instructor and mountain rescue member from Oban in Western Scotland. Sarah Stirling catches up with Kirsty to discover more about the film and, as Kirsty's maternal side of the family are Indian, diversity in the British outdoors.
Mountaineering Articles
Where are you currently getting your mountain inspiration from? Are the walls in your house lined with photos and paintings of stunning peaks? Your social media feeds endlessly presenting you with trails and skylines to add to the list of high places to explore? We're here to add to that by giving you five more films to keep your inspiration levels up. Enjoy the watch.
Rock Climbing
Grab a brew, get comfy and enjoy our top five trad climbing films from the BMC TV channel to inspire your next tradventure...
Rock Climbing Skills
Ever since 2021, a new method of setting up the top rope on the bolted anchors at Southern Sandstone crags has changed. Read on to make sure you're following the latest method.
Performance News
The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) can today announce the 15 athletes selected to represent the GB Climbing team at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Innsbruck 2024. Competition will run from Monday 24 June to Tuesday 25 June at the Kletterzentrum Innsbruck.
Performance News
The Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) is reaching its finale at the Ludovika Campus in Budapest this week. A total of 48 top climbers from around the globe will vie for their last chance to secure a spot in the Boulder & Lead event for Paris 2024.
For most people, walking all the Wainwrights is a challenge spread over many, many years. But James Forrest decided he wanted to up the ante, turn it right up to 11, go all out and walk them all in one outing and entirely self-supported. Is he mad or magnificent? You decide.
Hill Walking Articles
In this one we sit down with Steph Wetherell, co-founder of Every Body Outdoors, a group campaigning for better representation, clothing and gear for larger and plus-sized bodies in the UK outdoors. We talk about sizest attitudes, why seeing plus size people represented by brands and media is so important, and how clothes and kit can be more inclusive. And the unexpected joy of finding your ‘tribe’. We also chat with Head of Product at Berghaus.
Olympics News
GB Climbing’s Toby Roberts rounded off a formidable season with a victory at the 2023 European Boulder and Lead Olympic Qualifier event.
Performance
Read the BMC statement following the Competition Climbing Performance Group (CCPG) report.
Access News
The recent advertisement offering Kilnsey Crag for sale at a price of £150k presents an opportunity to remind members about how the BMC approaches potential land acquisitions. We're also on the lookout for specialist volunteers to support our land management work.
Rock Climbing Learn
Taking your first foray into the world of outdoor climbing? Here's a few pointers to help you get going safely...
News
Highlights of first day of Sport Climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, the men's qualification round.
Rock Destinations
Leo Houlding marked his 40th birthday by introducing the next generation of his family to the kind of adventures that he has become renowned for. The Houlding family spent four days climbing Piz Badile, with his children becoming two of the youngest climbers to stand on the summit.
Rock Climbing Articles
Adam Ondra climbed 9c back in 2017. But just how impressive was this step forward in sport climbing? And how do us Brits measure up against the mighty Ondra?
News
BMC member Scott Mackenzie recently journeyed to the top of the world, and was kind enough to take us along for the ride! His recent summit of Mount Everest took him past the infamous Hillary Step, which is reported to have changed as a result of the 2015 earthquake. We tracked Scott down to find out more.
Rock Climbing News
Lucy Creamer once flew the flag for British women's climbing. An injury forced her out of the spotlight in 2009, but now, after several years of DIY and dog-walking, she's back on form.